Showblowers for B series Tractors

DHD · Apr 9, 2005

I am in the tractor purchase process deciding between the B7510 and B7610. HST

There are two front mounted snow blowers models for these units. One is the BX2750B (50") and the other is the B2781 (51") the B2781 is about $800 more, but has more greaseable bearings and is more heavy duty with bigger impeller and bigger auger and about 50 pounds heavier. For snowblowers I am leaning toward the B2781 I just think it will last much longer.

Will the B7510 have enough power to comfortably run the B781 snowblower. If not, will the additional 2 HP of the B7610 make any noticable difference. I like the B7800 but I have some problems with size and shed storage area. So the smaller the better.

I am in an area that can get 2 to 3 feet of snow in one storm, and I've got 1000 feet of gravel driveways to snowblow.
I have been using a 10HP 26" walk behind and a 16 HP Wheel Horse with a 42" single stage.

Time for a change!

I would appreciate any and all comments.
Thanks

jfdlaw · Apr 10, 2005

I have a B2410 (deluxe version of the B7610) and have the 63" blower on the front. We get a lot of snow here (midway between Buffalo and Syracuse, within 1/2 a mile of the lake) and the 2410 handled the 63 inch blower fine. My driveway is 10 feet wide. It's mighty nice getting the whole driveway in two passes. (One run out, one back and I'm done.) I think the 63inch blower is around $200 more than the 50 inch.

I can't remember model numbers, but I think another difference between the two 50" blowers you mentioned is the attachment system. My blower attached to a quick connect subframe that you can also use for a front (dozer style) blade and a sweeper. It makes it a 2 minute job to take the blower off if you need to do something else with your tractor.

WayneW · Apr 11, 2005

I have a B7610 with the 50" BX blower. I also wen back and forth between the BX blower and the b2781 51". I went with BX because it was about $900 less than the B. It was $2800 for the mount and blower as it was, so another $900 was a tough pill to swallow. It is lighter and has a slightly smaller opening in the front of the blower, as a slightly smaller impeller.
However, that being said, I have had no touble with it. It does all I ask of it, including hacking into 3 ft drifts to clear a path to my woodpile. I just took it in two passes, one high, and another low.
Now, after that being said, I think that the B7610 does bog down a little in the deep stuff if you go too fast. It has been stated here that others have noticed this also, and in my case, especially when blowing up hill. I have never tried blowing with the B7510, so I don't know how much of a difference it would make. The "bog down" has never gotten close to a stall situation. Just easing up off the hydo pedal was enough for the blower to "catch up". Putting the transmission in "L" did not improve the issue at all. The 50" BX blower is designed for the BX1830, which I beleive is 14 or 15 PTO HP, so I'd think the 1830 folks would also have a similar issue. Though I have not read (at least concerning the bx2230) here of any trouble with the BX machines with the BX50" blower.
Of the implements that I have for my B7610, the blower is the only one that I noticed the motor sweat. Though sweat a little or not, it did the job.

DHD · Apr 12, 2005

Thanks for all your responses.

I ordered a B7800 (no FEL) and a Puma-64 rear mount blower. I think the additional seating room of the B7800 will make it easier for me in backing up operations, and the additional HP will allow for a larger RMM later on.

I like the Puma 64 rear mount blower because it had more grease fittings than the BX2750X Frt Mount and the B2781 Frt Mount w/greasable bearings was too pricey (I don't like sealed bearings because thats what my old Wheel Horse Tractor blower had). One fault with the Puma, it does not have a replacable scraping edge, but I think I can drill holes and bolt my own scraping edge on to the exisiting factory welded scraping edge.

I'll probably kick myself for not ordering the FEL, but I have storage issues in my garage as it is.

Thanks again

MadReferee · Apr 12, 2005

( One fault with the Puma, it does not have a replacable scraping edge, but I think I can drill holes and bolt my own scraping edge on to the exisiting factory welded scraping edge.)

I have had a 64" Puma for the last two seasons and with my packed gravel stone dust driveway my cutting edge is still like new. I don't ever see this edge wearing out and I think you are too overly concerned. In any case, the tractor top link should be set so the cutting edge is just above the surface to reduce digging and I always keep the skid shoes at their lowest position. A hydraulic top link comes in handy here.

BTW, my driveway is over 200' feet long, 15' wide with an additional 50'x75' parking area.

DHD · Apr 13, 2005

(Since I don't have a cab I mounted a piece of clear plexiglas to my roll bar.) 

Thats a good idea, and will probably be my first tractor alteration. I'm on an open hill, and get lots of wind.

Rearward lighting is something else that will need to be addressed.
It seems that I read (at another forum ??) there is an addition wire under the drivers seat that can be used for auxiliary lighting ??
Will have to check that out when the tractor arrives.

Thanks for the plexiglass hint.

MadReferee · Apr 13, 2005

You will be limited in the number and size of aux lights you can have. The stock dynamo on B-series Kubotas has only a 14.5 amp charging output.

A good dealer installed option to get is the high capacity alternator which is 40 amps. This will allow you to install front and rear flood lights and anything else you may ever need. That is what I have and many other TBN Kubota owners have too.

The option number is B7312 for a B7800 tractor. The price is around $165 without installation but get the dealer to install it for free as part of the tractor deal.

NY_Yankees_Fan · Apr 13, 2005

DH,

Before I got my Sims cab I made this cab, see link below, from a golf cart cover for about $125. I do not know if it will fit a B7510, put maybe worth a look. Snowblowing is not too much fun without a cab. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

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DHD · Apr 13, 2005

MadReferee wrote
(my packed gravel stone dust driveway my cutting edge is still like new. I don't ever see this edge wearing out and I think you are too overly concerned.) 

I have a rocky driveway and my neighbor does too (which I snowblow) and the cutting edges on all my past snowblowers show the signs of rock encounters. I do have stone dust on the flat portions of my driveway and I have no problems there.
I have a problem keeping the stone dust in place on the hilly portions due to errosion. My neighbors driveway is all hill.
In our area stone dust is much more costly than gravel @ 2" and under, and the gravel holds up better to the errosion.

I do have a scraper blade mounted to my Ford 2000 and in the spring and fall perfom driveway maintenace.

(Snowblowing)
In early winter I extend my shoes so that I have about 2" of ground clearence to the cutting edge, and hopefully after a few storms I'll have a nice smooth packed snow base. I then adjust the shoes to reduce the clearance so that the snowbase does not thicken to much.
If it did thicken too much there would be a big slushes mess during warm periods.

Even with these percautions I always seem to find rocks, but I'm learning as I go and in recent years have not had so many encounters
If the packed stone dust would hold up better on the hilly areas I'd probably be ok and never hit another rock.

The bolted on cutting edge is just my way of reducing damage to an expensive piece of equipment, for my situation.

Thank you for your response MadReferee
I noticed the attached picture on your post and was wondering
about your snow tire chains and if they would cause any damage to cement floors ?
I would like to get chains for my Kubota, but I was planing on parking the Kubota in my garage which has cement floors.

Thanks again

MadReferee · Apr 13, 2005

( I have a rocky driveway and my neighbor does too (which I snowblow) and the cutting edges on all my past snowblowers show the signs of rock encounters. )

This being the case, you have the cutting edge (and blower) angled too far rearward. You should not be digging into the snow/ground. Either shorten the top link or adjust the skid shoes so the blower rides higher. If you are throwing rocks and gravel your blower is adjusted incorrectly.

( I noticed the attached picture on your post and was wondering
about your snow tire chains and if they would cause any damage to cement floors ?
I would like to get chains for my Kubota, but I was planing on parking the Kubota in my garage which has cement floors.
)

I sent you a PM yesterday. Click on the red flashing icon next to the Main Index toolbar to read you PM's.

Stef · Apr 13, 2005

Good choice. Last winter I installed a Puma-64 on my BX23. It did a really good job. I have the hydraulic chute rotator and deflector on mine. You won't regret your buy.

Look at the pic. A Puma-64 is the very limit for a BX23. I ordered a B3030 last week. I should receive it by the end of this week. My blower will be a perfect fit on the new one. That's a big advantage to get rear implements, you can switch the tractor and keep the same implements. With a rear snowblower you can keep you FEL on, very usefull.

DHD · Apr 15, 2005

Tom wrote:
 Before I got my Sims cab I made this cab, see link below, from a golf cart cover for about $125 

Hey Tom,
That golf cart cover idea looks like it might have worked, but you still went with the Sims cab ?

MadReferee · Apr 15, 2005

I probably could have used one of those after snowblowing on this windy day. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

NY_Yankees_Fan · Apr 15, 2005

DH,

The golf cart cover worked OK but nothing like a cab made out of steel. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifI would still be using the golf cart cover if I did not get a bonus from work and went with the front snowblower and Sims cab set up. If I added heat to the golf cart set up it would have made it even nicer. Those small propane bottle heaters made for golf carts would have worked well. Bottom line if you do not have the $$$ for a Sims cab, the golf cart cab is better then no cab. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

DHD · Apr 17, 2005

I am looking for flexiblity in a cab (installing & removing),
for my Kubota B7800.
There are some summer jobs that will required folding the ROPS.

I'd like to get a Curtis or Sims cab, but they seem too permanetly mounted to be seasonly installed and removed.
I talked to some of the mechanics at my tractor dealership, and Cab installation is one of the jobs they dread the most and discourage the notion of seasonal installing and removing.

Tom's golf cart cover idea may be my solution.

Hey Tom
I'm not too familiar with golf cart covers, but did search the internet and found a deluxe golf cart cover BU72073 at buggiesunlimited.com made of 10 oz taraulin and 12 guage marine grade vinyl and it has six zippered panels that allow the sides to be rolled up and stored on top for $69.99.

Is this golf cart cover similiar to the one you used ?
Any other recommendations before I pursue this golf cart cover idea ?

I have a cab on my Wheel Horse garden tractor (no heat)
and I am aware of the condensation that forms inside on the windows that can turn to frost.

You are correct Tom, snowblowing isn't much fun without a cab.

NY_Yankees_Fan · Apr 17, 2005

DHD,

I removed the Sims cab for the summer. I made up a bracket with the design help of TBN member that connects to 4 eye hooks in each corner of the cab. With the help of a Harbor Freight $75 hoist I installed in my garage, I lift it off the tractor and store it for the summer on a plywood dolly. It was a one person job to take off. A total of 7 bolts secure the cab to the BX. All the electrical connections I used are quick disconnect. The bottom front section of the cab with the heater stays on the tractor during the summer. Took about 15 mins to unscrew everything and take it off the tractor.

The price for the golf cart cover looks good. Not sure on the gauge of the material used on my cart. I sold the entire set up to a TBN member this past winter, he put it on a BX22.

DHD · Apr 17, 2005

Tom,

Money is tight for the next couple of years 'till the B7800 and blower are paid off.
The golf cart cover idea is the most logical approach at this point in time, the Sims may come later.

Thanks for your response

NY_Yankees_Fan · Apr 18, 2005

I never had a problem with frost on the inside of the golf cart cover. I would spend 1-2 hours and sometimes 3 hours inside blowing snow. The cover is not a tight fit and with a BX the engine air intake is at your feet, so a lot of air is moving, thus the problem I had was I was cold after about an hour. The link below is a golf cart heater for $70, this would solve the cold problem I would think.

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