Should limited hyd. top link range be biased to longer or shorter?

[WinterDeere]

How would I go about getting the air out?

Usually, cycling full travel a few times will get most of the air out. Many prefer to pre-fill their cylinders and lines with oil, before screwing the quick disconnects on, but most don't even bother with this.

 

[dcarman]

The three point implements are unlimited in their scope and size. At some point you will run into one that won't fit exactly. Get the one that works for now and deal with it when you run into the one that doesn't fit!

 

[WinterDeere]

It's worth mentioning now that, unless you're running a very large-bore cylinder on a very low-flow hydraulic system, you're usually going to want some sort of restrictor on the top link hydraulic line. Some use a small needle valve to make it adjustable, I just went with a fixed restrictor, myself:

Amazon.com

 

[braccet]

Thank you for a link to the part. My cylinder doesn’t seem to be particularly fast moving, but if I still have this problem ill certainly give it a shot for only $13.

 

[Torvy]

Useful thread for me as I am looking for the best option, too.

My manual top link is roughly 18-31+.

It was set at about 25" from dealer with box blade. I'm thinking of one I found that is almost 21" to almost 32". Talk me in or out of that idea.

 

[WinterDeere]

I guess it's hard to give numbers, not knowing your tractor and setup. But maybe it's worth seeing how others actually use their top link, to help those considering them, as to whether they want to bias for more "up" or "down" range:

1. Aligning iMatch quick-hitch with the implement, for total from-the-seat drop and retrieval of implements. I can even tilt it toward me to make reaching the release levers easier.

2. Raising my brush hog hard against its floating top link, to lift it over ravines, etc.

3. Tipping my ballast box up, so when I climb a pile of material (usually dirt or snow pile) for dumping, the ballast box isn't dragging the ground behind me.

4. 3-point pallet forks. Tilt tips down to get into a pallet, then tilt up to compensate sag or prevent load from sliding off forks if driving over rough terrain.

5. Setting correct attitude on 3-point snow blower or rear blade.

Those who do garden plowing probably have other uses, as well.

 

[braccet]

Useful thread for me as I am looking for the best option, too.

My manual top link is roughly 18-31+.

It was set at about 25" from dealer with box blade. I'm thinking of one I found that is almost 21" to almost 32". Talk me in or out of that idea.

Well, if you already have your box blade, your solution is simple. Measure the top link length when level at ground level, and that should be about the midpoint of your range.

 

[OzzyDaveO]

Hi all, new Kioti CK2620SE Cab tractor owner here! Hope my title made sense. I didn't know if this was better for this forum or the hydraulics forum, but since it's more of a general question on length (I have the hydraulics part figured out), figured I'd put it here.

Basically, the situation is that my stock top link goes from 18" to 30" in length. Hydraulic top links are available in two sizes that I can easily find: 18-26 and 21-32. So the question is, should I bias my pick towards the shorter end of the OEM range or the longer end?

Currently I actually have the 18-26 freshly installed on my tractor. I attached a photo showing it fully extended on my Woodmaxx flail mower. You can see that at full extension, the top pin is not very far beyond the bottom pins (2-3"?). And you can see that when fully retracted, it would be quite a bit behind them.

I'd like a bit more tilt out of my flail mower for when it's muddy so the skids don't dig in constantly, but before I swap, just wanted to check to make sure I'm not sacrificing some other implement by losing 3" of max "inward" tilt. The flail mower is the only implement I have so far. Box blade is next. Do you typically need more "outward" tilt than "inward" tilt on a box blade?

Are there any other 3 point implements out there that require a lot of inward tilt? Just trying to cover my bases.

Thanks!

looks like attachment point is tilted back there based on the picture

 

[Torvy]

Well, if you already have your box blade, your solution is simple. Measure the top link length when level at ground level, and that should be about the midpoint of your range.

Also trying to 'future proof' my spending. What about all of the toys, er tools, I haven't purchased yet?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Also trying to 'future proof' my spending. What about all of the toys, er tools, I haven't purchased yet?

I don't remember how I came up with the measurement but when I modified an agricultural cylinder to become a top link I didn't worry about that at all. So far I haven't had any issues with length. What I did was drill another hole in top of my quick-tach to enable a bit more range.

 

[WinterDeere]

Also trying to 'future proof' my spending. What about all of the toys, er tools, I haven't purchased yet?

The good news is that cylinders are relatively cheap, and relatively easily re-sold on ebay. Don't sweat it.

 

[gckshea]

That's my issue, I don't have implements yet, only the flail mower. I'm asking for advice from the more experienced folks here

Does a box blade generally need more "forward" tilt than "rearward" tilt? I've tried, but cannot seem to find head-on images of box blades mounted and angled at the appropriate limits.

In my case, with a box blade, a landscape rake, and even my brush hog, I use longer length of the top link more often. With a box blade, it doesn't take much shortening of the top link beyond level to get good engagement of the front facing blade. Any further inward tilt and the front blade comes off the ground a lot. This means the only engaging part of the box blade is the skid shoes of the sides...neither the front nor the rear blade engage, and most dirt and rocks will have been dumped by then.
I'd go with a bias to a bit longer, but 3" is a lot of grey area. Consider a simple welded plate mount on the implements needing the middle ground...a second pin hole to give options.
Also, my choice of hydraulic top link was calculated with my Pat's Easy Change quick attach hooks in place, which puts every implement rearward 4".

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

My tractor measures the same as these. After watching some videos on how to choose, and one I think was TTWT... I chose the 21-32" option. With my tiller it has more than enough movement in either direction. One resource asked, how often does anyone use the fully retracted position? The answer was almost never. That 11" of movement equates to A LOT of variation in pitch of the implement

Edit. TTWT had a great tutorial on finding the correct length of top link. One thing he didn't mention, and many of us have had to use, is hydraulic flow restrictors to eliminate chatter and the quick/abrupt movement of the cylinder. My flow is just too high for it to operate smoothly without the restrictors in place. With them, it's butter smooth and precise

 

[BruceS_55]

Just wanted to follow up and let folks know how it went, including future Google searchers

Got my box blade and hooked it up. Seems like the 18-26 cylinder is just about the perfect range. Attaching shots at each extreme at ground level. Think I’ll get good range out of the box blade.

I am having a slight issue with the cylinder stuttering a little, maybe my RPMs just need to be a little higher.

That looks like a pretty good range of motion. I am looking for one for my 2515H TYM. The oem link is 14 3/4 to 25 1/8 and I have Pat’s quick hitch on the lift bars. The one at TSC is 18 1/8 to 26 3/8. I’m not sure if that would be enough extension. The retracted length seems about right.

 

[Dman1981]

Rule of thumb on most cylinders level is half way for rear hydraulics
Always set up my equipment that way.
Then you have same tilt forward as back. same with side tilt if you use double tilt well you get the whole stroke
I am coming from an operator point of view and have set up hundreds of hydralics on equipment
For customers

 

[Williy]

Did you compare it with your older one or use the older
one that you have for a guide???

willy