Should limited hyd. top link range be biased to longer or shorter?

[jjeff]

Why not just test each of your current implements with the existing screw-type top link, to determine the range of lengths you need, and then center the available travel of the new one upon that range? I think that's what I did, back when I chose mine, not trusting the OEM or dealer really put such effort into selecting the original.

Problems arose for me when acquiring new ground engaging implements, anyways in my experiences with hydraulic top links i wish i would have paid a few extra dollars and got a larger stroke keeping in mind retracted length.

 

[WinterDeere]

Problems arose for me when acquiring new ground engaging implements, anyways in my experiences with hydraulic top links i wish i would have paid a few extra dollars and got a larger stroke keeping in mind retracted length.

Agreed, the primary problem being that larger stroke usually comes with longer retracted length.

I was able to find one that was pretty close to the full range of my OEM top link, but I do remember confirming it against the range required for the implements I owned, as well.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Agreed, the primary problem being that larger stroke usually comes with longer retracted length.

I was able to find one that was pretty close to the full range of my OEM top link, but I do remember confirming it against the range required for the implements I owned, as well.

The issue with basing your operating range on the OEM manual top link is that about 50% of the top links provided by the OEM are WRONG. There are tractor manufacturers that provide top links that provide zero to maybe at best 1" of forward tilt with some of their models. Now if a person were to get a new top link based solely on what the OEM top link provides, well then they are going to most likely end up disatisfied with the implement performance.

I have found that if a person does what this link suggests and uses the asked for dimension as the mid stroke of the new top link, they will get very close to what would typically be considered the optimum overall working length.

 

[braccet]

The issue with basing your operating range on the OEM manual top link is that about 50% of the top links provided by the OEM are WRONG. There are tractor manufacturers that provide top links that provide zero to maybe at best 1" of forward tilt with some of their models. Now if a person were to get a new top link based solely on what the OEM top link provides, well then they are going to most likely end up disatisfied with the implement performance.

I have found that if a person does what this link suggests and uses the asked for dimension as the mid stroke of the new top link, they will get very close to what would typically be considered the optimum overall working length.

That's a great idea, I just jumped the gun and got the link before the box blade! My flail mower is maybe not the best analogy as it has a slotted top hole.

Trying to figure it out while I can still swap the link, if necessary. But I'm glad you have some experience with the Kioti CKs and most seem to be satisfied with the shorter one

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That's a great idea, I just jumped the gun and got the link before the box blade! My flail mower is maybe not the best analogy as it has a slotted top hole.

Trying to figure it out while I can still swap the link, if necessary. But I'm glad you have some experience with the Kioti CKs and most seem to be satisfied with the shorter one

Maybe I just can't see it, but you do not have to use the top slot, just use it where it is pinned in the picture.
I'm not sure that I would even want the mower moving forward or backward on its own anyway.
Think about what the mower actually does if-when it tilts backward and if you actually want the mower to move in that way.
I think that you think there is an issue when there isn't, just my opinion.
I'm pretty sure that there WILL be issues using the box blade if you go with a longer stroke top link.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[braccet]

Maybe I just can't see it, but you do not have to use the top slot, just use it where it is pinned in the picture.
I'm not sure that I would even want the mower moving forward or backward on its own anyway.
Think about what the mower actually does if-when it tilts backward and if you actually want the mower to move in that way.
I think that you think there is an issue when there isn't, just my opinion.
I'm pretty sure that there WILL be issues using the box blade if you go with a longer stroke top link.

Good luck with your decisions.

Thanks again. Unfortunately both locations where I can attach the top link to the mower are slotted on the mower. They claim they slot them for "float", but I thought a 3 point hitch was floating by nature anyway (when all the way down).

 

[super55]

I have both sizes. If you something like Pats Easy Hitch which I do on one of my tractors the larger size works better and is almost a necessity. If you are doing standard type hook up with the lift arms then the smaller size will work.

 

[JCoastie]

2 pages already, wow. I installed some Pat's EZ Hitch adapters, at the same time I installed a hydraulic top link. I measured and the Pats moved the pins back 4 inches, so I bought a longer top link than my stock one. I found that is isn't a 1:1 ratio regarding the top link, and I could barely pick up my landscape rack high enough to clear things, so I sold the new longer hydraulic top link and ordered one with the same stroke as the stock manual one. 2 years later, no issues. So for me, stock length, or slightly shorter would be fine.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks again. Unfortunately both locations where I can attach the top link to the mower are slotted on the mower. They claim they slot them for "float", but I thought a 3 point hitch was floating by nature anyway (when all the way down).

Your 3pt hitch will always float up unless in the fully raised position. Having the position control lever in the fully lowered position allows the hitch to go as low as it can is all.

All the slot does is allow the mower to rock forward or backwards. How much depends on how you have the top link adjusted when the implement is down on the ground. This is a relatively minor amount of up-down movement compared to raising the draft arms.

I have both sizes. If you something like Pats Easy Hitch which I do on one of my tractors the larger size works better and is almost a necessity. If you are doing standard type hook up with the lift arms then the smaller size will work.

Yes, Pats QH adds 3 3/4" to the draft arm length, so a longer top link would typically be needed.

 

[scootr]

For Pats I simply made up a (removeable) mount extension at the tractor and a PTO quick coupler to make up the difference.