Sharpening replacing FAE DML/TWIN teeth

[hayden]

Reviving this old thread. I have an FAE mulcher head on a Kubota KX080 excavator. Love the machine (both of them), but picked off a few rocks and need to sharpen the blades.

Does anyone know if you grind from the top side, or from the underside?

 

[KenB2920]

From my understanding, it depends on what tooth you have. I ha e the hardened steel and therefore I did touch mine up. If you have the carbide, I don稚 believe they can be sharpened. (All from memory years ago, I would look on the company website where I believe I read that before).

 

[hayden]

Right, you can't sharpen the carbide blades, only the steel blades. And I have the steel blades. Here's what they look like, borrowing the image from a previous post

 

[KenB2920]

Funny, I looked at that photo and said they look exactly like mine. Then I realized that is my photo. So yes, not sure if I was suppose to or not, but I did put a slight edge on mine to get rid of the roundness. Worked fine. And as you know, these teeth are reversible.

 

[hayden]

Funny, I looked at that photo and said they look exactly like mine. Then I realized that is my photo. So yes, not sure if I was suppose to or not, but I did put a slight edge on mine to get rid of the roundness. Worked fine. And as you know, these teeth are reversible.

But which surface did you grind? The outer surface, towards the curved part? Or from inside where the curved part is, towards the outside? I think either will maintain the same angle, but if you grind the outside surface I think you will be slowly reducing how much of a bite each tooth can take. So I'm thinking you should grind the inside surface. Today I reversed them all while I figure out how to best sharpen them.

 

[the old grind]

I sharpened carbide production tooling for a GM engine plant and other facilities for over a decade. (resin bonded wheels mostly C-2, & C-6)

We would only sharpen the outside of such a tooth as yours (to maintain 'relief angle'), but you'd be ok for a while either way by not removing too much stock.

The cutting angle is to be maintained to the bottom of the gullet by leaving it untouched vs pehaps creating a 'step' or changing the angle there after several sharpenings (AKA 'rake angle').

btw, tooth & brush cutter blade, etc edges can be built back up using hard-facing electrodes or wire. (Beads/patterns on track-hoe buckets are laid down as wear strips.)

Be warned that precise welding will minimize regrinding. That stuff is HARD.