Sharpening replacing FAE DML/TWIN teeth

[KenB2920]

 

[KenB2920]

 

[KenB2920]

 

[KenB2920]

 

[KenB2920]

So, these are Type E teeth which are hardened steel not carbide as most others are.

I am curious
1) how many hours are guys getting on a set of teeth and or between sharpening. (I realize with different hardness trees and rocks etc. can change the time frame but I am curious on an average).

These teeth became somewhat rounded so to speak as you can see it the photo. They still worked great but assume the were clubbing the wood crushing it as appose to cutting it. This is why I chose to simply put an edge back on them.

I know these teeth are reversible and also have a second set of teeth but I'd like to get the most life out of each side as I can.


2) Also, being this unit is a TWIN, meaning I can rotate which side the three point is, I'm curious if anyone has used it both ways and can state the pros / cons of each direction. Typically I drive backword into larger stuff, then pull forward over thinner brush to chip better. Curious who actually has this machine and done both. Being this machine is fairly new on the market (2 years I think) and the smallest unit (aside from the 125 model) FAE manufactures there isn't a ton of info on it.

I must say I only have about 60 hours on this attachment and it's by far my favorite. I hate taking it off. But with 60 hours and having a good grasp on using it, I'm never afraid to learn more.

 

[yellowdogsvc]

I have a UML 150 VT and use similar teeth the DM Cobra, I think. I work in a lot of rock so I just run them in the middle of the drum. I have good luck with them but not so good luck with sharpening. As they round out, I replace them and my production goes back up. I currently have near 80 hours on a set but can't remember if I flipped them yet. I just ordered 5 more to rotate in as the most worn are replaced. When they wear down too much, my sizing of material is reduced some as the tolerances become greater within the chamber.

I tried the carbide version and the carbide snapped off within 10 minutes of striking something hard.

So, these are Type E teeth which are hardened steel not carbide as most others are.

I am curious
1) how many hours are guys getting on a set of teeth and or between sharpening. (I realize with different hardness trees and rocks etc. can change the time frame but I am curious on an average).

These teeth became somewhat rounded so to speak as you can see it the photo. They still worked great but assume the were clubbing the wood crushing it as appose to cutting it. This is why I chose to simply put an edge back on them.

I know these teeth are reversible and also have a second set of teeth but I'd like to get the most life out of each side as I can.


2) Also, being this unit is a TWIN, meaning I can rotate which side the three point is, I'm curious if anyone has used it both ways and can state the pros / cons of each direction. Typically I drive backword into larger stuff, then pull forward over thinner brush to chip better. Curious who actually has this machine and done both. Being this machine is fairly new on the market (2 years I think) and the smallest unit (aside from the 125 model) FAE manufactures there isn't a ton of info on it.

I must say I only have about 60 hours on this attachment and it's by far my favorite. I hate taking it off. But with 60 hours and having a good grasp on using it, I'm never afraid to learn more.

 

[KenB2920]

I have a UML 150 VT and use similar teeth the DM Cobra, I think. I work in a lot of rock so I just run them in the middle of the drum. I have good luck with them but not so good luck with sharpening. As they round out, I replace them and my production goes back up. I currently have near 80 hours on a set but can't remember if I flipped them yet. I just ordered 5 more to rotate in as the most worn are replaced. When they wear down too much, my sizing of material is reduced some as the tolerances become greater within the chamber. I tried the carbide version and the carbide snapped off within 10 minutes of striking something hard.

Ok, this is relieving !!!

Seems about the same on the hours per tooth. I am able to "grind" them which takes a while but worth it I guess.

I'm afraid to flip them around as I might realize what I am missing.

I am shocked to hear the carbides snap.

Do you have any photos of your teeth? Worn

 

[KenB2920]

Think these are dull or can be sharpened ?

 

[hddnis]

I would flip that one on the left, you'll see a huge jump in productivity.

 

[KenB2920]

I would flip that one on the left, you'll see a huge jump in productivity.

That was my thought lol. The one on the right is new out of the box.


I really like this tool!!

 

[hayden]

Reviving this old thread. I have an FAE mulcher head on a Kubota KX080 excavator. Love the machine (both of them), but picked off a few rocks and need to sharpen the blades.

Does anyone know if you grind from the top side, or from the underside?

 

[KenB2920]

From my understanding, it depends on what tooth you have. I ha e the hardened steel and therefore I did touch mine up. If you have the carbide, I don稚 believe they can be sharpened. (All from memory years ago, I would look on the company website where I believe I read that before).

 

[hayden]

Right, you can't sharpen the carbide blades, only the steel blades. And I have the steel blades. Here's what they look like, borrowing the image from a previous post

 

[KenB2920]

Funny, I looked at that photo and said they look exactly like mine. Then I realized that is my photo. So yes, not sure if I was suppose to or not, but I did put a slight edge on mine to get rid of the roundness. Worked fine. And as you know, these teeth are reversible.

 

[hayden]

Funny, I looked at that photo and said they look exactly like mine. Then I realized that is my photo. So yes, not sure if I was suppose to or not, but I did put a slight edge on mine to get rid of the roundness. Worked fine. And as you know, these teeth are reversible.

But which surface did you grind? The outer surface, towards the curved part? Or from inside where the curved part is, towards the outside? I think either will maintain the same angle, but if you grind the outside surface I think you will be slowly reducing how much of a bite each tooth can take. So I'm thinking you should grind the inside surface. Today I reversed them all while I figure out how to best sharpen them.

 

[the old grind]

I sharpened carbide production tooling for a GM engine plant and other facilities for over a decade. (resin bonded wheels mostly C-2, & C-6)

We would only sharpen the outside of such a tooth as yours (to maintain 'relief angle'), but you'd be ok for a while either way by not removing too much stock.

The cutting angle is to be maintained to the bottom of the gullet by leaving it untouched vs pehaps creating a 'step' or changing the angle there after several sharpenings (AKA 'rake angle').

btw, tooth & brush cutter blade, etc edges can be built back up using hard-facing electrodes or wire. (Beads/patterns on track-hoe buckets are laid down as wear strips.)

Be warned that precise welding will minimize regrinding. That stuff is HARD.