Share Pics of People Hauling or Towing Something Wrong
- Thread starter 94BULLITT
- Start date
- Views: 5135767
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 16,664
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Just a guess how he got from the gas station to the tree:The only problem with that last set of photos are the guy should have aired that tire up while getting gas.
He braked hard, breaking the strap behind the the load. That shifted his load forward, lifting his front tires off the ground so he had no steering. While he was still going too fast. Crunch.
And the flat trailer tire loaded more weight on the hitch, adding to that loss of steering.
bigtiller
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Messages
- 7,344
- Location
- central Iowa
- Tractor
- John Deere 2720 John Deere 3039R John Deere Z545R
It goes faster if you just look at the pictures...and maybe a few one liners.
Do you have proof they are not? Do you have the original pics? I'm usually very good at spotting fakes, as I've played around with Photoshop quite a bit years ago. No matter how I zoom in or hold my face as close as I can, I cannot definitively claim they are.
WinterDeere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 12,881
- Location
- Philadelphia
- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
I'm not looking at the photo quality, but the content of what they contain.
The first is a standard cab full-size pickup, which is shown so much larger than the tow vehicle (1980's Nissan?) as to be comical. Have you ever seen a tandem-axle flatbed trailer so small that a standard pickup would completely dwarf it in width, or any mini pickup that would almost fit into the bed of a modern standard body 3/4 ton truck?
The second is a forklift fitting fully within the confines of a 6.5' foot bed. Looking at similar-vintage Toyota forklifts, even the smallest 8FD's are a foot too long to fit into that pickup bed with the tailgate closed. I don't think Toyota made any forklift of that configuration in a similar vintage that would fit into a 6.5' bed with the tailgate closed.
Last edited:
3 Horse Ranch
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2017
- Messages
- 1,396
- Location
- Tonasket, WA
- Tractor
- NH B50H Cab, Ford 1715, Poulan Pro 46
When I worked in a building supply store, I occasionally offered suggestions or sometimes showed them the way to tighten their rope, but I never touched their line beyond that. The only thing I actually did to their load was staple a flag on the overhang.O Lord, buy me a Ford! Hope that is not a building supply employee helping to lash that monstrosity down
Creamer
Elite Member
I was thinking about the weight of the now full fifty gallon gas tank in the back of the suburban took away what was left of his steering that got him there. Then because he couldn't turn and the tree stood it's ground, the truck wanted to get off of that trailer in a hurry and it didn't turn either. Good thing the suburban was not a Pinto!
On the first pic, yes, those old Nissan mini-trucks were quite small compared to a newer 3/4 ton truck. Also, you have the F250 closer to the camera (and taller since it's on the trailer) than the Nissan. Hunters and fishermen use this tactic to make their kill/catch look much bigger since it's closer to the camera.
I'm sure you've seen this picture before...same concept:
On the second picture. That is an electric forklift. You can see the black hole under the seat where the battery slides in/out of. We have one at work. Remove the forks, and it would easily fit in a long bed size wise, at 74 inches long, and 41.5 inches wide (based on a similar model I chose which I think is actually the newer, bigger model)
Toyota 7FBEU18 Forklift, Battery & Charger Specifications
machinemaxxusa.com
Maybe this one is photoshopped....even down to the gouges in the concrete...
Attachments
footer200
Silver Member
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
racing stripes
Eagle1
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
- Messages
- 26,663
- Location
- Viburnum, MO
- Tractor
- Kubota BX2200, LS XG3135H, Grasshopper and Yazoo Zturns
Will be permanently ghosted in by they time the straps come off.racing stripes
I'm not sure what the problem is. I rented one to haul my Ranger 50 miles to the garage. By their standards the little tire straps were enough to hold it on. Yet the truck was longer than the trailer so I ran straps from each side of the rear axle to keep it from moving.
WinterDeere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 12,881
- Location
- Philadelphia
- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
The problem is the straps aren't actually doing anything to keep the car in place on that trailer. Strapping the tires is the way to go, or to the eyes in the subframe connectors. Running a loop over the car allows the car to slide fore and aft within the big loop of the strap.
I guess that my post actually said that I don't tow much, without actually saying that I don't tow much. ( Plus I assumed that the provided tire straps were utilized.)
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
Tires, or straps through the wheels, are my preferred methods. Here's an example of one of each. The trailer sometimes dictates how I can tie vehicles down, depending on where the anchor points are.
I prioritize the rear tie downs as I have little or no control over how sudden a stop can be.
WinterDeere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2011
- Messages
- 12,881
- Location
- Philadelphia
- Tractor
- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
Screw the strapping. Nice SRT!
<-- has an SRT and a Durango
<-- has an SRT and a Durango
Helogabals
Gold Member
Anything hanging in/on suspension should be held where is rigid anchoring point
For cars / trucks that should be wheels / axles
Forklift or tractor doesn't have suspension, so they can be held by someplaces higher. For tie down higher is always better - straps work more efficient. But still have keep in mind that normally at upper areas of trucks we have rather thin body panels, not suitable for anchoring
As I see it, only mobile object which could be strapped that way (straps over) is tank. No suspension, strong enough body
gstrom99
Elite Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2015
- Messages
- 2,623
- Location
- Greene, Iowa
- Tractor
- Deere 855, Deere 530R zero turn, Allis Chalmers D17 III, Polaris Ranger, Deere 3032E (SIL's), Yamaha Timberwolf 250, Husky saws, H & H 10k and Carry-On trailers
Now you've polluted this thread, with a pic of how to actually do it right. Shame...
CliffordK
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2013
- Messages
- 2,447
- Location
- Eugene, Oregon
- Tractor
- Toro D200, Ford 1715, International 884,
I don't use tire straps. Perhaps I should get some. I like to connect to axles. Strap from rear axle to front of the trailer, and a strap from the front axle to the rear of the trailer.
If I can get something like a 30° angle or less, also a strap from the rear axle to the rear or front axle to the front.
A straight vertical strap on a vehicle doesn't do a lot to restrict movement.
Just wrapping around something and tightening down does have some friction, and likely reaction force to a rapid movement. I do like to do a full loop when possible.
At least 2 independent straps holding the vehicle in any direction (so if a strap goes missing there is always a spare). Often there will be more.
The car on the previous page. The straps over the car would give some friction from movement. However, being above the suspension, the whole thing will wiggle and move some. The straps down from the rear of the vehicle to the trailer frame are somewhat too vertical, and won't give a lot of support for rapid acceleration. And, likely the front are the same, although the U-Haul should have solid front tire stops so that should be OK. The straps will likely scratch the paint. Now, I do strap over a vehicle if I wish to hold a door, trunk, or hood closed, but that usually is a strap around the vehicle to avoid suspension bounce.
If I can get something like a 30° angle or less, also a strap from the rear axle to the rear or front axle to the front.
A straight vertical strap on a vehicle doesn't do a lot to restrict movement.
Just wrapping around something and tightening down does have some friction, and likely reaction force to a rapid movement. I do like to do a full loop when possible.
At least 2 independent straps holding the vehicle in any direction (so if a strap goes missing there is always a spare). Often there will be more.
The car on the previous page. The straps over the car would give some friction from movement. However, being above the suspension, the whole thing will wiggle and move some. The straps down from the rear of the vehicle to the trailer frame are somewhat too vertical, and won't give a lot of support for rapid acceleration. And, likely the front are the same, although the U-Haul should have solid front tire stops so that should be OK. The straps will likely scratch the paint. Now, I do strap over a vehicle if I wish to hold a door, trunk, or hood closed, but that usually is a strap around the vehicle to avoid suspension bounce.
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
Now you have me confused. Which admittedly is easy to accomplish, but still.
The Durango is an SRT, an SRT Hellcat to be precise. Just like my Challenger. As I understand it, an SRT comes with a 392, which is larger in displacement but naturally aspirated so it's down a couple of hundred hp. Those are plenty quick, but not quite enough for me.
And apologies for showing how I tie cars down, screwing up the thread. I'll dig up a photo of the tunnel washer I picked up a couple of years ago to make up for it. Came a bit under prepared for that one (nowhere near enough chains for a 16,000 lb. machine with soft tires and suspension), so it became a mix of chain, straps, and tire tie downs.
Looked like crap, but it stayed on there for some 1,500 miles.
