Seized engine

[Spikes]

Hi everyone,

I haven't been on here in a while. Had some (10) surgeries that left me living in a nursing home and having to learn to walk again, but I'm back now and doing fine.

While I was down, my Kubota L3450 sat out in the weather for 3 years, and apparently got water down the exhaust (stock with the foward-facing 90° bend at the top). Strange thing is I was able to start it two years ago just before Winter and it started fine with a new battery, I was able to drive it to the carport where it lives. There was no indication that anything was wrong at that time. Went out to start it at the end of last year and just got a click and a really high current draw. I replaced the starter thinking it was that but still does the same thing. I'm unable to turn the engine with a breaker bar, but I haven't tried too hard as I don't want to break the front pulley bolt off. I poured a bottle of seafoam down the exhaust a week or so ago just to help loosen things up if that's the issue. Some of it came out the bottom of the manifold so there must be a leak in there. Oil level is fine and was fresh just before my health went down.

My question - Am I correct in thinking I can put the transmission in reverse 8th gear and pull on it a bit with my truck's winch? It's shuttle shift. It will have to be reverse because it's nosed into the carport. I can hook to the brush hog on the back.

I'm guessing I'll have to put new diesel in, the stuff that's in there is 5 or 6 years old now.

Thanks!

 

[JWR]

Oh dear ! The Seafoam is an extraneous topic. Most of it evaporated by now and you see it around the exhaust manifold because the valves were in unknown or partially open positions. Leaky exhaust manifolds are also the least of your problems and that exercise did not accomplish anything.

Eventually you need to get the fuel out, probably change the filters and all that but you have a more pressing issue.

I have not seen in your comments any reason to think the engine is actually siezed. Especially since it started and ran a couple years ago. No idea in the world why you replaced the starter. Knowing nothing about the surroundings where you keep the tractor or what other extenuating circumstances there are, I would think you need a helper while working with it. You should be able to put it out of gear pull it (with whatever you have) out onto level dry pavement and let one person ride it while the other pulls it slowly with the truck. Put it in the correct direction gear you are pulling it , hold the clutch in until you are moving good and pop the clutch. That should free the engine rotation. No winches involved.

Do not know what circumstances were when you used a breaker bar to try to turn the engine. Maybe it is siezed but we have no clues here as to why, if it is.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Absurd of me to join in since I know less than nothing... Is there any possibility that an internal coolant leak could hydro-lock a cylinder? Maybe pull the glow plugs and try that bar again? Leave them out when you do the brute force tow-to-free thing?

Just askin', not sayin'

Zoltan

 

[Spikes]

I appreciate the reply. I used the seafoam because I wanted to get something around the valves incase water had gotten down in there. I'm not sure what that could hurt, so I'll leave that part alone in this reply. I replaced the starter because it wasn't able to turn the engine over and appeared to be locked up. It was a preliminary step in diagnosis - the old starter had given me problems in the past so the replacement was due anyway. If the engine wasn't seized, I don't see why the starter wouldn't be able to turn it. As far as helpers, I don't have one so it's the truck and I. I was hoping to move the tractor a little while it was in gear and see if that got the engine moving a little.

 

[Spikes]

Is there any possibility that an internal coolant leak could hydro-lock a cylinder? Maybe pull the glow plugs and try that bar again? Leave them out when you do the brute force tow-to-free thing?

Good thoughts, and something I had considered. I think the engine would have turned a 'little' bit when I first tried to turn it, but even so, I checked the coolant level and it's full. I will be pulling the injectors if a gentle tug doesn't get me anywhere.

 

[JJT]

I'm with you, give it a gentle tug and see what happens.

 

[Gator6x4]

Pull the glow plugs and pour transmission fluid in each cylinder. Do not try towing to start. Let the tractor set for a few days and then try rocking the engine backward and forwards. You should also remove the rocker cover and watch it as you are doing the rocking backwards and forwards. Watch the cam, rockers and push rods to see if they move freely you may also have frozen lifters.

After you get the engine where it will rotate freely leave the glow plugs out and spin the engine with the starter to blow the transmission fluid out of the cylinders. I have also seen the injectors have to be removed and oil poured in the cylinder through the injector holes.

A lot of the old tractors with the exhaust pointing straight up had this problem if a can was not placed over the exhaust stack when left setting outside.

 

[mrmikey]

What he said ▲

 

[jaxs]

I'm not sure which bothers me most,your tractor seized,your health problems or that noone will come over to help you. If the engine hasn't freed up I'm with Gator about removing glow plugs or injectors then pouring 6 oz penitrating oil in each if you can afford it,mixture 75% atf + 25% Acatone if on a budget. Stay after it with the bar until it can be turned at least one complete revolution then spin with starter to remove oil and make on hell of a mess on the ground. The problem with towing it is that rings can be broken when piston is forced to move. I had to rock 2 different engines on and off for weeks before they moved then spent another week rocking back and forth until the engine could be rotated through a complete revolution.
Win,lose or draw I wish you would just give us a shout,I'm worried that you've injured yourself or worse.

 

[Spikes]

I'm not sure which bothers me most,your tractor seized,your health problems or that noone will come over to help you. If the engine hasn't freed up I'm with Gator about removing glow plugs or injectors then pouring 6 oz penitrating oil in each if you can afford it,mixture 75% atf + 25% Acatone if on a budget. Stay after it with the bar until it can be turned at least one complete revolution then spin with starter to remove oil and make on hell of a mess on the ground. The problem with towing it is that rings can be broken when piston is forced to move. I had to rock 2 different engines on and off for weeks before they moved then spent another week rocking back and forth until the engine could be rotated through a complete revolution.
Win,lose or draw I wish you would just give us a shout,I'm worried that you've injured yourself or worse.

Hi jaxs,

I appreciate the reply. I haven't gotten back out there to do this yet, I am on the same page as far as pulling the injectors after reading some more on the subject. I certainly don't want to destroy the engine by being too aggressive.
The thing that's got me puzzled is that although the tractor did sit out in the weather for a long time, it started, and I was able to drive it before parking it where it lives now under the carport. There is no way water has gotten in the exhaust since I moved it, as it's well covered now. I recall now that I drove the tractor around until the engine was up to full temperature, as I didn't want to cause condensation to form in the crankcase and then park it.

I'll do some more diagnosing once I can get back out to the machine. I'll have the tools ready next time and be able to pull the injectors.

Appreciate you all taking the time to reply!