Safe Tractor trailoring

[George2615]

My previous GM 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup was rated to tow 8200 Lb. It had a small 8 cyl with an auto trans. I never had any problem hauling 6K with it. Only problem was gas mileage went from 15.5 down to about 8 or 9 when towing. You didn't mention what year truck it was but if its a late model it should have no problem. He'll just need a pocket full of money or a CC to keep filling up. And remind him to drive defensively, leave extra room in front for stopping, and take his time.

 

[George2615]

My previous GM 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup was rated to tow 8200 Lb. It had a small 8 cyl with an auto trans. I never had any problem hauling 6K with it. Only problem was gas mileage went from 15.5 down to about 8 or 9 when towing. You didn't mention what year truck it was but if its a late model it should have no problem. He'll just need a pocket full of money or a CC to keep filling up. And remind him to drive defensively, leave extra room in front for stopping, and take his time.

 

[wushaw]

Tell him not to tow in overdrive.

 

[wushaw]

Tell him not to tow in overdrive.

 

[keeney]

There are lots of threads about this on the forum related to making sure the tractor is loaded on the trailer safely. in summary:

1. Take great care going up down ramps, make sure trailer is scure while doing so. Probably should be hitched to the truck. Flip-down ramps with built-in stands are best. Otherwise jackstands or something underneath to hold rear of trailer from squatting while loading is required. Wear your seatbelt with ROPs up if tractor is so equipped.

2. Make sure the trailer is long enough. Long enough to be able to place the tractor far enough forward to get correct tongue weight. Also long enough so that nothing is hanging off the front or back.

3. Chain the tractor down with some suitable chains and binders. I won't go into all the reasons, but the consensus opinion for that weight would be to use at least 5/16" grade-70 "transport" chains. Somebody who likes overkill would use 3/8" grade-70 chains. Use four chains for the tractor - one on each of the four corners. If it has a loader use two more chains to hold down the loader. Use two more for a rear attachment. Also chain down any attachments loaded seperately with at least two chains each. When counting chains, each chain needs to be independently fastened on each end. A chain looped over something or through more than one place without being fastened securely only counts as one chain. Chains need to be fastened to tie-down rings or stake-pockets designed for that purpose on the trailer, and should be connected to sturdy parts of the tractor like around the axles, weight bar, or frame.

4. Tongue weight. Follow the trailer and truck recommendations (making sure there is a compatible overlap). Typically around 10-15% of the weight needs to be on the tongue. Verify by noting that the bumper of the truck goes down, not up when compared to the unloaded condition. Unlike a boat trailer, there is no pre-set location for the tractor on the trailer, so the tractor will have to be carefully positioned front to back to get the tongue weight correct.

- Rick

 

[keeney]

There are lots of threads about this on the forum related to making sure the tractor is loaded on the trailer safely. in summary:

1. Take great care going up down ramps, make sure trailer is scure while doing so. Probably should be hitched to the truck. Flip-down ramps with built-in stands are best. Otherwise jackstands or something underneath to hold rear of trailer from squatting while loading is required. Wear your seatbelt with ROPs up if tractor is so equipped.

2. Make sure the trailer is long enough. Long enough to be able to place the tractor far enough forward to get correct tongue weight. Also long enough so that nothing is hanging off the front or back.

3. Chain the tractor down with some suitable chains and binders. I won't go into all the reasons, but the consensus opinion for that weight would be to use at least 5/16" grade-70 "transport" chains. Somebody who likes overkill would use 3/8" grade-70 chains. Use four chains for the tractor - one on each of the four corners. If it has a loader use two more chains to hold down the loader. Use two more for a rear attachment. Also chain down any attachments loaded seperately with at least two chains each. When counting chains, each chain needs to be independently fastened on each end. A chain looped over something or through more than one place without being fastened securely only counts as one chain. Chains need to be fastened to tie-down rings or stake-pockets designed for that purpose on the trailer, and should be connected to sturdy parts of the tractor like around the axles, weight bar, or frame.

4. Tongue weight. Follow the trailer and truck recommendations (making sure there is a compatible overlap). Typically around 10-15% of the weight needs to be on the tongue. Verify by noting that the bumper of the truck goes down, not up when compared to the unloaded condition. Unlike a boat trailer, there is no pre-set location for the tractor on the trailer, so the tractor will have to be carefully positioned front to back to get the tongue weight correct.

- Rick

 

[texasjohn]

cgadbois, Glad to get all the details... and Congrats on such a complete reply!

You were initially worried about your guy being able to make the trip safely. He can and almost certainly will.

We all have to use the equipment that we have. What he has is very adequate for the job, IMHO.

My main concerns are all resolved in the positive... particularly that he has trailering experience already and that there are working trailer brakes.

He's good to go.... give him a warm send off and a warmer welcome when he gets back /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif And encourage him to take his time... it's not a race... it's a tractor haul... and I encourage you to climb up on it and start tractor'in when he rests up from the trip... it'll show him you are a good sport and interested in his new toy... er... tool. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[texasjohn]

cgadbois, Glad to get all the details... and Congrats on such a complete reply!

You were initially worried about your guy being able to make the trip safely. He can and almost certainly will.

We all have to use the equipment that we have. What he has is very adequate for the job, IMHO.

My main concerns are all resolved in the positive... particularly that he has trailering experience already and that there are working trailer brakes.

He's good to go.... give him a warm send off and a warmer welcome when he gets back /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif And encourage him to take his time... it's not a race... it's a tractor haul... and I encourage you to climb up on it and start tractor'in when he rests up from the trip... it'll show him you are a good sport and interested in his new toy... er... tool. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[MrJimi]

Now we all feel safe, You can make him a nice cooler/picnic basket with his favorite goodies.
have a good and safe trip
Jim /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[MrJimi]

Now we all feel safe, You can make him a nice cooler/picnic basket with his favorite goodies.
have a good and safe trip
Jim /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[GeneD14]

If done safely traveling a long distance to pick up a tractor can be a fun adventure.
My wife has gone with me on several of these excusions and we have a great time. We leave the kids with grandma and take off.
Having some one to talk to helps keep you awake and stopping for dinner along the way and spending the night at a hotel is a nice get-away.

 

[GeneD14]

If done safely traveling a long distance to pick up a tractor can be a fun adventure.
My wife has gone with me on several of these excusions and we have a great time. We leave the kids with grandma and take off.
Having some one to talk to helps keep you awake and stopping for dinner along the way and spending the night at a hotel is a nice get-away.

 

[Highbeam]

Not so fast,

I have a slightly more modern version of his truck in 4wd and tow a 6500-7000 lb load regularly.

The trailer he has chosen is adequate, very much like mine. Good decision. The brakes on that trailer will stop the load, his truck will stop his truck.

He needs to use the WD hitch. This is not optional as if he reads the label on his new hitch he will see that it can only carry 500 lbs of tongue weight without a WD hitch and 1000 with the WD hitch. If he hasn't used one before, he will find that the WD hitch is very good at improving many things. I even use it on my trailer when it's empty.

Don't worry about an antisway device. If you need this device then you have bigger problems. Lot's of people confuse antisway with a WD hitch, they are not the same thing.

The 350 in that 91 is a low power 350 using throttle body injection so his HP is just over the 200 but this is not a race. Expect less than 10 mpg towing.

The 700R4 is a pretty weak tranny in stock form. It is extremely important to tow with it in third gear and drive in a manner to avoid excessive shifting. Select the 3 on the gearshifter.

I also recommend 4 chains and 4 ratchet binders. One chain and binder to each corner of the tractor. I am not so worried about the implements but on a trip this long through so many states with so many goofy small town cops, I would be very inclined to add an additional chain and binder to the loaderbucket and to the rear implement.

Tire pressure! Be sure that each tire on the truck and trailer is filled to it's labeled max. Be certain that your truck spare is filled with air and that the trailer spare is present and filled with air.

You didn't mention the in cab electric brake controller. Many horse trailers don't have this since they use asurge brakes for the trailer. Be sure that the truck is equipped with a controller box near the driver.

I would do the drive in my truck. Heck, I nearly drove to Kansas to pick up a tractor from Washington.

Your boyfriend's truck is practically adequate. He might be overweight in regards to GCWR but that is only a performance rating. The important thing is that all axles and all tires are within their ratings.

Here's a photo of my half ton with 7000 lbs on the hitch.

 

[Highbeam]

Not so fast,

I have a slightly more modern version of his truck in 4wd and tow a 6500-7000 lb load regularly.

The trailer he has chosen is adequate, very much like mine. Good decision. The brakes on that trailer will stop the load, his truck will stop his truck.

He needs to use the WD hitch. This is not optional as if he reads the label on his new hitch he will see that it can only carry 500 lbs of tongue weight without a WD hitch and 1000 with the WD hitch. If he hasn't used one before, he will find that the WD hitch is very good at improving many things. I even use it on my trailer when it's empty.

Don't worry about an antisway device. If you need this device then you have bigger problems. Lot's of people confuse antisway with a WD hitch, they are not the same thing.

The 350 in that 91 is a low power 350 using throttle body injection so his HP is just over the 200 but this is not a race. Expect less than 10 mpg towing.

The 700R4 is a pretty weak tranny in stock form. It is extremely important to tow with it in third gear and drive in a manner to avoid excessive shifting. Select the 3 on the gearshifter.

I also recommend 4 chains and 4 ratchet binders. One chain and binder to each corner of the tractor. I am not so worried about the implements but on a trip this long through so many states with so many goofy small town cops, I would be very inclined to add an additional chain and binder to the loaderbucket and to the rear implement.

Tire pressure! Be sure that each tire on the truck and trailer is filled to it's labeled max. Be certain that your truck spare is filled with air and that the trailer spare is present and filled with air.

You didn't mention the in cab electric brake controller. Many horse trailers don't have this since they use asurge brakes for the trailer. Be sure that the truck is equipped with a controller box near the driver.

I would do the drive in my truck. Heck, I nearly drove to Kansas to pick up a tractor from Washington.

Your boyfriend's truck is practically adequate. He might be overweight in regards to GCWR but that is only a performance rating. The important thing is that all axles and all tires are within their ratings.

Here's a photo of my half ton with 7000 lbs on the hitch.

 

[Highbeam]

And here's the WD hitch system with NO sway control devices. I highly recommend he use a WD hitch. My GM, class 3 hitch requires it.

 

[Highbeam]

And here's the WD hitch system with NO sway control devices. I highly recommend he use a WD hitch. My GM, class 3 hitch requires it.

 

[Grayrider]

First off: Thank you one and all, very sincerely, for such great advice and your experiences in towing a tractor with a half-ton pickup. I am the boyfriend about whom cgadbois is genuinely concerned - bless her heart. I thought that I should post a few more details, so that all of us have the right facts. About the only thing which I have not come up with is the GVWR of the 1991 Chev C-1500 pickup. Have not found exact figures on-line for this year - but judging from other build years, somewhere around 6200 lbs.
Here is the detail on the towing rig and the trailer. I called the manufacturer, Alum-Line to get the unloaded trailer weight, and know pretty much already the weight of the 1955 Massey Harris 44 Special row crop which I am picking up.
- Trailer: unloaded weight 1760 lbs. (It's aluminum)
- Trailer axles: 5200 lb. rating per axle, total rating 10,400 lbs.
- Trailer brakes: electric, all four wheels
- Trailer tires: New, trailer rated (sidewall reinforced) each tire load capacity is 2450 lbs.
- Trailer coupler: Hammerblow, 2 5/16 " ball, breakaway kit
- Tow vehicle: 91 Chev C-1500 pickup, 350 f.i. engine, 700-R4 automatic, rear-end ratio unknown, 74K miles, well-maintained.
- Tow vehicle approximate GVWR: 6200 lbs.
- Tow modifications added: TCI aluminum finned, extra 2 quart trans pan with temp gauge sender; Aluminum plate style cooler added in front of radiator, TCI trans. temp gauge installed in cab; Transmission flushed, (including torque converter) with new Kendall Dexron Type III fluid, Hayes Lemeurz "Genesis" Electronic trailer brake controller w/ abilitiy to adjust both minimum and maximum braking current. Hellwig LP-35 overload "helper" spring addition, (3500 lb. extra capacity), evidently overkill for a 1/2 ton.
- Towing Receiver: Class III Draw Tite, weight dist. capacity = 8000 lbs. trailer weight, tongue weight w/ WD hitch = 800 lbs. ; w/ NO WD hitch = 5000 lbs. trailer weigth with 500 lb. tongue weight max.
- Towing Hitch: Reese Stait Line 'combo-style' trunnion WD hitch with dual-arm Sway Control unit, model # 66021, (800 lb. tongue weight max.), 2 5/16" towing ball.
- Trailer Load: weight of Massey-Harris 44 Special tractor = 4685 lbs.
- Total trailer weight (as best I can estimate): 6445 lbs.
- Tractor to be chained to the six, integrated trailer deck loops, with chain binders installed.
- My experience towing: Mostly pulling an older 4 horse Linville stock trailer with a 1972 3/4 ton Chevy pickup. No WD hitch installed, but also not going from Holland, Michigan to Portland, Oregon. Older Kelsey-Hayes style hydraulic to electric current trailer brake controller.
- I hope this gives a better overall picture, and again, thank you all very much for the great input - especially about not using the 700-R4 in OD mode when towing.
Regards, Grayrider from western Oregon.

 

[Grayrider]

First off: Thank you one and all, very sincerely, for such great advice and your experiences in towing a tractor with a half-ton pickup. I am the boyfriend about whom cgadbois is genuinely concerned - bless her heart. I thought that I should post a few more details, so that all of us have the right facts. About the only thing which I have not come up with is the GVWR of the 1991 Chev C-1500 pickup. Have not found exact figures on-line for this year - but judging from other build years, somewhere around 6200 lbs.
Here is the detail on the towing rig and the trailer. I called the manufacturer, Alum-Line to get the unloaded trailer weight, and know pretty much already the weight of the 1955 Massey Harris 44 Special row crop which I am picking up.
- Trailer: unloaded weight 1760 lbs. (It's aluminum)
- Trailer axles: 5200 lb. rating per axle, total rating 10,400 lbs.
- Trailer brakes: electric, all four wheels
- Trailer tires: New, trailer rated (sidewall reinforced) each tire load capacity is 2450 lbs.
- Trailer coupler: Hammerblow, 2 5/16 " ball, breakaway kit
- Tow vehicle: 91 Chev C-1500 pickup, 350 f.i. engine, 700-R4 automatic, rear-end ratio unknown, 74K miles, well-maintained.
- Tow vehicle approximate GVWR: 6200 lbs.
- Tow modifications added: TCI aluminum finned, extra 2 quart trans pan with temp gauge sender; Aluminum plate style cooler added in front of radiator, TCI trans. temp gauge installed in cab; Transmission flushed, (including torque converter) with new Kendall Dexron Type III fluid, Hayes Lemeurz "Genesis" Electronic trailer brake controller w/ abilitiy to adjust both minimum and maximum braking current. Hellwig LP-35 overload "helper" spring addition, (3500 lb. extra capacity), evidently overkill for a 1/2 ton.
- Towing Receiver: Class III Draw Tite, weight dist. capacity = 8000 lbs. trailer weight, tongue weight w/ WD hitch = 800 lbs. ; w/ NO WD hitch = 5000 lbs. trailer weigth with 500 lb. tongue weight max.
- Towing Hitch: Reese Stait Line 'combo-style' trunnion WD hitch with dual-arm Sway Control unit, model # 66021, (800 lb. tongue weight max.), 2 5/16" towing ball.
- Trailer Load: weight of Massey-Harris 44 Special tractor = 4685 lbs.
- Total trailer weight (as best I can estimate): 6445 lbs.
- Tractor to be chained to the six, integrated trailer deck loops, with chain binders installed.
- My experience towing: Mostly pulling an older 4 horse Linville stock trailer with a 1972 3/4 ton Chevy pickup. No WD hitch installed, but also not going from Holland, Michigan to Portland, Oregon. Older Kelsey-Hayes style hydraulic to electric current trailer brake controller.
- I hope this gives a better overall picture, and again, thank you all very much for the great input - especially about not using the 700-R4 in OD mode when towing.
Regards, Grayrider from western Oregon.

 

[Highbeam]

First problem is you're getting ripped off on tires. Your tires are limiting your trailer's capacity. Load range E tires as I have on my 5200 lb dexter trailer axles have more capacity than the axle at 2800 or so.

Your GVWR is listed on the sticker in the door jamb of your truck. 6200 is very common on GM half tons unless you got the optional semi floating rear end and then it is 6800. Assume 6200 to be conservative. You'll be shooting for 700 lbs of tongue weight leaving 5500 max unhitched truck weight. The 5500 includes you, full fuel, that WD hitch, coolers, whatever. The sticker also lists your axle weight ratings which is a biggy with DOT.

You've got a very good WD hitch which includes a highly regarded sway control. It will work well. Be sure to adjust the height on the shank so that the trailer rides level. The WD bars should be parallel to the ground when tightened.

Your assumed tractor weight sounds like it is from a book. I suspect that the weight will be higher with fluids, fuel, loaded tires, and so on. Then you will be adding the weight of all the chains and binders. Expect 7000 lbs by the time you're done.

Did you get a spare tire for that trailer?

You'll be right at your limits and the tow will be less comfortable than you would like. I would still do it if I were you.

 

[Highbeam]

First problem is you're getting ripped off on tires. Your tires are limiting your trailer's capacity. Load range E tires as I have on my 5200 lb dexter trailer axles have more capacity than the axle at 2800 or so.

Your GVWR is listed on the sticker in the door jamb of your truck. 6200 is very common on GM half tons unless you got the optional semi floating rear end and then it is 6800. Assume 6200 to be conservative. You'll be shooting for 700 lbs of tongue weight leaving 5500 max unhitched truck weight. The 5500 includes you, full fuel, that WD hitch, coolers, whatever. The sticker also lists your axle weight ratings which is a biggy with DOT.

You've got a very good WD hitch which includes a highly regarded sway control. It will work well. Be sure to adjust the height on the shank so that the trailer rides level. The WD bars should be parallel to the ground when tightened.

Your assumed tractor weight sounds like it is from a book. I suspect that the weight will be higher with fluids, fuel, loaded tires, and so on. Then you will be adding the weight of all the chains and binders. Expect 7000 lbs by the time you're done.

Did you get a spare tire for that trailer?

You'll be right at your limits and the tow will be less comfortable than you would like. I would still do it if I were you.