Routing Compressed Air through Shop

[jgbanshee]

I would like to route compressed air along the walls of my shop (24'x30'). My air compressor (80 gal. horizontal) sits on a concrete slab out back on the other side of the back wall of the shop. Any suggestions on how to route the air into garage and what materials to use? I would like to have a couple different spots to tap into the air.

 

[QRTRHRS]

If money is not problem, go with something like Garage-Pak.

I would go with threaded black iron pipe myself. Plenty of fittings available and you can either rent the threading equipment or figure your lengths and have a builiding supply place do it. Stay away from PVC, safety issues there.

Something flexible between the compressor and where you go through the wall may be in order to negate the effects of vibration.

 

[Woodworkerman]

Before you spend a lot of time and money plumbing your shop with air, consider what I did. I ran a 50 foot piece of standard air hose from my compressor location to a pre selected point on the ceiling of the shop. I Then bought a 50 foot retractable real air hose and mounted it to the ceiling attaching the air line from the compressor. Having the retractable real is very neat and handy and I got mine on ebay for less than $100 bucks with shipping. Best of luck with your project.

 

[john_bud]

I've got the exact set up. Tank w compressor is outside the heated shop. I run a rubber hose to a second tank to use "expansion" to cool the air and drop out water. Then a rubber hose to the black iron pipe. No vibration issues.

I drilled a 2" hole thru the wall and slid a PVC pipe into that, then back filled around it with expanding foam. Then filled around the black iron with foam too.

Some say to tilt the supply pipe toward the compressor. I've seen real good success tilting it away so the air flow blows the water away and to a drop trap. Rather than using a "T", use an "X". Dry air out the top, wet air out the bottom to a ball valve to allow you to blow out the water. I have lots and lots of water traps and blow outs in the system. Rusty tools are not so useful. The longer you run the pipe, the bigger the diameter. 3/4 for the main legs and 1/2 for the drops is good for most shops. You can get by with smaller.

good luck!
jb

 

[3RRL]

I agree with QR.
Also a couple water traps. I'd use 3/4" or larger if you can afford it. It adds a little to the capacity of the system. May not seem like much, but if you have a lot of line, it adds up. I'd also put as many outlets as you can, all with QD's on them including one running out the main garage door (or close to it) for air work out on the drive.
Oh, do you have any protection for the compressor outside? A lean to or something for some shade and to keep the rain off? It'll help with the condensation in the tank too. I had a fence around mine.

 

[Willl]

I had a fence around mine.

For when you lived in the city ?

 

[schmism]

there is plenty of debate already on the board about material.

Ive used PVC for years in my and my dads shop. no issues.

cheep and easy to work with. I transition to black pipe for the last few feet to deal with hose stress.

look into putting a homemade cooler/water separator between the compressor head and the tank.

 

[mjncad]

I have a 22-gallon single stage compressor in the garage supplying my basement shop with the pressure set to 100-PSI. I used 1/2" Type-L copper tubing (Type-M will work too). I have 8 drops in the shop with QD's and plenty of taps off the main header to add more drops if needed.

I like the copper tubing because it's far easier to work with than the threaded pipe. I have 1/4" drain valves below the QD's, except on the three overhead drops by my chop saw, band saw, and table saw. The only time I get condensate water is when I drain the tank, and at the basement pressure regulator drain.

My planned outbuilding for our new property will hopefully have an 80-gallon compressor, and I'll use 3/4" Type-L copper for the main lines, and probably 1/2" branches. Shop air outlets are like electrical outlets...you can never have too many.

 

[kennyd]

I used copper when I did mine...it is more expensive but you make that up with the ease of installing and leak free joints.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I used left over copper - from installing split heat pump unit in the loft of the barn and with one more copper pipe I was able to bring it to my work table.
It branches off - with a rubber hose to a retractable reel above the door. The retractable hose gets used most of the time, for work outside.
The reel itself is from Costco and it was about 50 with the hose included. Could not be without it anymore

From compressor to the table it is about 20' and the shop is 40x10' - small enough to afford the copper for it.

 

[em14]

Here is a very good company to deal with ... they have a web site and are very helpful and nice folks: Modular Metal Piping Kits - TP Tools & Equipment ... now having said that I choose to use Garage-Pak in my Florida shop ... it is amazingly quick and easy to install ... and it is nice!
Leo

 

[streamin]

I have been in the body shop business for 22 yrs and have seen 2 times a PVC pipe burst, not real common but dangerous when it does.I also had a pvc water trap burst too. The steel lines also help condense the water better to drain from the traps.
The others are correct, always go up and then down at the point of your final outlet.You should have at least 50' from your compressor before your 1st outlet, this allows time for the water to separate.

 

[mopacman]

Has anyone used PEC water tubing? I am thinking of using it to run air to an out building...Larry

 

[QRTRHRS]

You folks using copper, did you go with compression fittings or soldered? I suggested black iron over copper only for the price. I may be out of touch but is copper not more expensive?

I worked in semiconductor manufacturing for 20 years and we had miles of copper air and vacuum lines but always with compression fittings. I was not a millright so I never really got into the why's about it.

 

[BigE_]

Has anyone used PEC water tubing? I am thinking of using it to run air to an out building...Larry

We use PEC at work for all of our air lines, although it is air rated, not water rated. Probably a higher burst, dunno. You can buy it at Home Depot (according to our tech who picked some up). Rumor has it that it runs about $1 per foot, so not cheap by any means.

I do know that we had to replace all of the original because it wasn't UV safe and the fluorescent lights made it brittle. That was an expensive mistake!

 

[mjncad]

You folks using copper, did you go with compression fittings or soldered? I suggested black iron over copper only for the price. I may be out of touch but is copper not more expensive?

I use soldered fittings as they are easy to come by and make for a leak proof connection.

 

[kennyd]

You folks using copper, did you go with compression fittings or soldered? I suggested black iron over copper only for the price. I may be out of touch but is copper not more expensive?quote]

Soldered for me...
Copper is definitely more expensive than black iron pipe. But if if factor in the convenience or working with it, not having to thread the pipe, and then 99% less chance of leaks the cost far outweighs the price in my book.

 

[tommu56]

there is plenty of debate already on the board about material.

Ive used PVC for years in my and my dads shop. no issues.

cheep and easy to work with. I transition to black pipe for the last few feet to deal with hose stress.

look into putting a homemade cooler/water separator between the compressor head and the tank.

I woulden't suggest pvc i tried it once schedule 80 and it broke to peices and embeded in the drywall (I'm glad no one was around)
Black iron is the best with drip leg on every drop ie put a tee on end of drop valve on bottom and QD on side and bleed down before use.

tommu

 

[czechsonofagun]

Same here, soldered copper. I really enjoy the work with copper fittings