Rounded off drain plug

[airbiscuit]

HA,you should have been around when the farmer came here needing help with his donkeyl:donkey: with stopped up plumbing. A few suggestions were evil,a few down right inhumane and a bunch would be worth price of admission just to watch.

Maybe there is something to be learned there. After all, a donkey is just a manual version of a tractor....

 

[K5lwq]

I heard Lifetime was working on turning this thread into their latest Christmas movie! In the end, Santa replaces the old plug with a shiny new gold one!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

Wouldn't it be a hoot if for some odd reason that plug was a left handed thread and all this time he's been tightening it?

Well, we actually dont know which way hes been trying to turn it - - although its observably a right hand thread.

 

[goeduck]

Maybe there is something to be learned there. After all, a donkey is just a manual version of a tractor....

I wonder if Exlax in the oil would do the trick :confused2:

 

[California]

Drop the oil pan. Weld a second drain where it is accessible. Reinstall the pan. Refill with fresh oil.

And use a Fumoto Drain Valve if it will be protected by that crossmember.


That was easy!



(No I haven't read the first 500 or so posts. I just noticed the thread today).

 

[Xfaxman]

Well it is obvious that you (and many others) didn't read the first post.

There is no pan on the transmission.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well it is obvious that you (and many others) didn't read the first post.

There is no pan on the transmission.

It fits with the joke the thread has resolved into.

. . . OP is long gone.

 

[airbiscuit]

The OP was on a couple of days ago. I think he still wants to remove the drain plug out, he's just not in a hurry. There are probably other things in his life that are a higher priority than this. In the meantime, we have this thread for our interest and amusement

 

[/pine]

...It fits with the joke the thread has resolved into...

When threads go south they usually either get locked or turn into an absurdity contest...with the latter being a symptom of misbehaving at adult day care also known as an Internet forum...
They turn into yuck, yuck, yuck post contests that make Forest Gump look like a genius...

 

[airbiscuit]

Agreed, however, I have every belief that Kando will eventually get that drain plug removed, and I'd like to hear the end of the story. In the meantime, there's nothing wrong with a little entertainment.

 

[Diggin It]

The OP was on a couple of days ago. I think he still wants to remove the drain plug out, he's just not in a hurry.

Maybe he could park it in a barn with a wood floor and a hole would appear where the plug once was.

 

[newbury]

While generally amusing, cannot believe I just went through 50 pages of posts for a drain bolt that has been stuck for 8 months! :duh:

That shows dedication, and boredom.

Undoubtedly you've noticed repetition of questions.
From early on:

Are you certain you are turning it in the correct direction? :confused2:

That I am

But there is really NO problem.

Way back, at post #120 in early April, I suggested:

I know a lot of people use mityvacs for engine oil and transmission oil change. Could that work here to get the old fluid out?

I've used my little HF $5 hand pump to take a half quart out of my VW when they vastly overfilled it.

(I was surprised nobody had suggested it earlier.)

In September at post #459

Still on the back burner to do. In lieu of draining from the plug I've figured on using a pump to pull the trans oil out and just replace from there.

So if his main purpose was to change the oil and the pump works/worked his problem is solved.

 

[sixdogs]

If Kando were to post more pics that showed clearance and the rounded nut and others of perspective, I think it would better help us in this effort. I believe Kando is more than capable but this is a second priority to life or living or kids or job or whatever. Most of us have been similarly stumped at one point in life and also has no idea what to do. My feeling is this will have a happy ending.

 

[Kando]

I've got a Ford 5000 being delivered in the morning. I'll get a couple pictures when I'm moving things around.

 

[Ford850]

Yes, square head.

View attachment 546567

Here's the current state of the plug. That bar should be removable, bolt on each end. The loader mounts to the frame on the front under the engine and to axle on the rear, just a support bar I suppose. Johnkn, I've tried those extractors as well, although the one I tried was the one that fit in it's current state. Once I remove the bar I'll look into using the next size down, 1/2". Bolt head would normally be 9/16"

Bumping Kando's original picture of the plug and the bar that's obstructing it. I also included a picture of the plug on my Ford to show how they look in better shape.

 

[Jstpssng]

Do the pumps through the dipstick manage to get all of the oil out? To me, putting new fluids in an engine or transmission which still has old oil in it makes as much sense as saving your bath water for the next time that you get dirty.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Do the pumps through the dipstick manage to get all of the oil out? To me, putting new fluids in an engine or transmission which still has old oil in it makes as much sense as saving your bath water for the next time that you get dirty.

Here's my thoughts on this.

The idea of an oil change is not to replace worn out oil. The idea is to flush out all the contaminants in the oil. That's why you change oil warm and after it's been in use. Warm oil in a transmission, engine or gearbox that just been used and then shut down has the maximum amount of metal shavings and other contaminants suspended in it. When you drain the oil the contaminants get flushed out too.

I don't get how a pump with a small hose slowly sucking the oil out through the dipstick adequately flushes out all the garbage. If you visualize the action of the oil through a drain plug there's no way a small hose can come close. Also usually the dipstick hole isn't any where's close to where to lowest point in the transmission is. So how do you know that the hose went to the lowest point and sucked all the garbage out?

All this being said using a pump to remove the used oil is still better than no oil change at all.

 

[Diggin It]

Can't say as I've ever seen a pan that can't be removed one way or another.

Would it be totally unreasonable to consider drilling a new hole for a new drain plug in a more accessible spot?

 

[Jstpssng]

I've got a Ford 5000 being delivered in the morning. I'll get a couple pictures when I'm moving things around.

I'm looking forward to seeing it. I really like those old Fords. Also the old AllisChalmers, Farmall. John Deere... There might be a,pattern here.

I'm bringing my father's TO35 home next spring, and may end up with his Ford 4500 (gas) since it isn't worth much and nobody else in the family wants it.

 

[California]

I would grind some flats all the way up to where the threads disappear into the plate, using an angle grinder, die grinder, whatever. Then pressure wash the tractor so you don't set it on fire when you heat that area with a torch.

Run the tractor until hot, heat that area further with a torch, chill the plug with an ice cube or electronics spray etc, then put a huge pipe wrench on the flats you made and pull hard.