Rotten Trailer Boards
- Thread starter OkieG
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Steven
Gold Member
The decking is 3 years old and still looks like new. this pt lumber should last a long time. My father inlaw just replaced the deck boards on one of his trailers after eight years (they were not pressure treated) and his trailers are out on job sites all year round. He figures he will be replacing the trailer before these boards need to be replaced. look how long home decks made out of pt. last if taken care of. And I do not put water seal on the bottom only the top this keeps the wood from soaking up the water, spilled oils, and diesel fuel it just beads up and drips or drains off. I would post a picture but do not have a digital camera yet. but this is what it looks like
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Kodiak
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George:
Actually my trailer currently has 2x10s, and there in is its current weakness, as you can put the weight of an entire of one front tire in one spot. Actually upon rethinking this project, 2x8s due sound a little stronger. And would be easier to rip the last one fit my 83" bed width. However by adding the 18" strips of expanded metal as I mentioned earlier, they will help in distributing the weight over several planks also.
Actually my trailer currently has 2x10s, and there in is its current weakness, as you can put the weight of an entire of one front tire in one spot. Actually upon rethinking this project, 2x8s due sound a little stronger. And would be easier to rip the last one fit my 83" bed width. However by adding the 18" strips of expanded metal as I mentioned earlier, they will help in distributing the weight over several planks also.
Gary_in_Indiana
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Okie,
Lemme see if I have this right. I'm going to assume you know the steel is the same and that you're asking what to do between getting a new wood floor that'll last you four years for $260 or spending an extra $32 for steel?
Why would you even type that post when you could be on the phone ordering your steel and making an appointment to have it installed on your trailer by a professional trailer shop?
Wouldn't you have gladly paid and extra $32 for your trailer if it had a steel floor when you bought it? This is your chance to do it now. Not to sound like a Nike commercial, but Just Do It!
Lemme see if I have this right. I'm going to assume you know the steel is the same and that you're asking what to do between getting a new wood floor that'll last you four years for $260 or spending an extra $32 for steel?
Why would you even type that post when you could be on the phone ordering your steel and making an appointment to have it installed on your trailer by a professional trailer shop?
Wouldn't you have gladly paid and extra $32 for your trailer if it had a steel floor when you bought it? This is your chance to do it now. Not to sound like a Nike commercial, but Just Do It!
s1120
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I got to agree with Gary. Wood has a lot of advantages, but for the money I would get steel. You could weld all kinds of stuff to it,[attachment hooks etc] resale would be better if you ever wanted to trade up, and will Last forever in trailer use,[unless you use it to haul fishing nets, or something from salt water/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif] As for slipping, you could weld that expanded steel on to the deck. I say go for it.
Gary,
You're right, you're right, you're right! It's just that I've never had a steel bed and don't know anyone who has. I don't want to miss a decision changing advantage or drawback that maybe should be obvious to me, but perhaps isn't. That is why I started this thread.....because I have NO experience with PT vs. steel, and I wanted to take advantage of YOUR (TBNers) experience.
I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. The trailer store suggests a few cans of undercoating spray so maybe that's a non-issue (I hope), but I don't know.
My minor concern is weight of the bed. The steel weighs in at +380 lbs. over a lumber bed. In any case, with two 3500 lb. rated axles and my relatively small tractor (about 2000 lbs. w/o implements), I think I'll be OK.
Those steel bed trailers sure look nice when I drive by the trailer lot. Paul makes a good point about resale value and being able to weld to the bed (though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed).
Gary, I appreciate your input. Thanks for the post.
OkieG
You're right, you're right, you're right! It's just that I've never had a steel bed and don't know anyone who has. I don't want to miss a decision changing advantage or drawback that maybe should be obvious to me, but perhaps isn't. That is why I started this thread.....because I have NO experience with PT vs. steel, and I wanted to take advantage of YOUR (TBNers) experience.
I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. The trailer store suggests a few cans of undercoating spray so maybe that's a non-issue (I hope), but I don't know.
My minor concern is weight of the bed. The steel weighs in at +380 lbs. over a lumber bed. In any case, with two 3500 lb. rated axles and my relatively small tractor (about 2000 lbs. w/o implements), I think I'll be OK.
Those steel bed trailers sure look nice when I drive by the trailer lot. Paul makes a good point about resale value and being able to weld to the bed (though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed).
Gary, I appreciate your input. Thanks for the post.
OkieG
<font color=blue>I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. </font color=blue>
This isn't a big deal like some folks would have you think. A good coat of paint in the beginning and ***MAYBE*** several years down the road. Your trailer already has a lot of steel after all (frame, axle, tongue, etc.) and they've stayed solid after all, right? Just look at good 'ol Fords & Chevys - their beds are a LOT thinner than what you'd have on your trailer and they last a LONG time with tons (or half-tons /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif) of use.
As for 380 lbs. of extra weight, I don't understand why that's a concern. (what, about 5% of your 7K capacity?) You are way under your working limits of 7K for your trailer, and I doubt you're getting close to your tow vehicle's limit. (just think of it like putting 2 buddies in the cab, after all, that's about the weight you are talking about adding.)
This isn't a big deal like some folks would have you think. A good coat of paint in the beginning and ***MAYBE*** several years down the road. Your trailer already has a lot of steel after all (frame, axle, tongue, etc.) and they've stayed solid after all, right? Just look at good 'ol Fords & Chevys - their beds are a LOT thinner than what you'd have on your trailer and they last a LONG time with tons (or half-tons /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif) of use.
As for 380 lbs. of extra weight, I don't understand why that's a concern. (what, about 5% of your 7K capacity?) You are way under your working limits of 7K for your trailer, and I doubt you're getting close to your tow vehicle's limit. (just think of it like putting 2 buddies in the cab, after all, that's about the weight you are talking about adding.)
Gary_in_Indiana
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<font color=blue>"though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed"</font color=blue>
While there are any number of things from banjo plates to hooks, I'd suggest starting with . I added <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/6-182913-MVC-006X.JPG>six D rings to the five that were already in my trailer floor. Anyone who has a trailer and uses it to move things will tell you there's no such thing as "too many" attachment points. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
While there are any number of things from banjo plates to hooks, I'd suggest starting with . I added <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/6-182913-MVC-006X.JPG>six D rings to the five that were already in my trailer floor. Anyone who has a trailer and uses it to move things will tell you there's no such thing as "too many" attachment points. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
RedDog
Platinum Member
OkieG,
I have had both steel and wood gooseneck trailers. The steel trailer was 15' flat with a 5' dovetail,, tri-axle and weighed about 5,000lbs. The wood trailer is 34' flat with no dovetail, dual tandems, about 7,000lbs.
The steel surface is more slippery than the wood, especially when wet.
I replaced the wood floor, (all 34' of it, and it is 8' wide) with "rough cut" lumber from a local mill. My total cost including bolts to secure it down was about $250. I cut them up and put in myself.
You can also add D-rings or other hooks to wood trailers too!
Depending on where your braces are at and how thick the steel material is,, steel will "bow".
Both surfaces have there pros and cons. I sold my steel trailer and kept the wooden one,, no regrets.
RedDog
I have had both steel and wood gooseneck trailers. The steel trailer was 15' flat with a 5' dovetail,, tri-axle and weighed about 5,000lbs. The wood trailer is 34' flat with no dovetail, dual tandems, about 7,000lbs.
The steel surface is more slippery than the wood, especially when wet.
I replaced the wood floor, (all 34' of it, and it is 8' wide) with "rough cut" lumber from a local mill. My total cost including bolts to secure it down was about $250. I cut them up and put in myself.
You can also add D-rings or other hooks to wood trailers too!
Depending on where your braces are at and how thick the steel material is,, steel will "bow".
Both surfaces have there pros and cons. I sold my steel trailer and kept the wooden one,, no regrets.
RedDog
Soundguy
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Wood is stronger than steel, ( per unit weight, factoring in span) generally speaking, though there is quite a volume difference. However other factor suf as abrasion, and environmental differences effect wood more so than metal.... lots of trade-offs.
Ever notice that most heavy equipment flatbeds you see are wood lined... Also helps with slippage.
Ever notice that most heavy equipment flatbeds you see are wood lined... Also helps with slippage.
Rockdog
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Just had the same problem myself on a 20 ft. trailer. The painted wood that was on there rotted out in 4 years. Cost me $186(on sale at Menards) for pressure treated wood and about $5 for carriage bolts(had to drill out some of the old bolts). Another $15 for a good deck board sealer. Put 2 coats on top and 1 on bottom. It's the same principle as your outsdie deck. It, pressure treated, will last for years if you spend 1/2 hours seal coating it in the spring and fall. I wished I had known about the steel option but oh well.
Good Luck, Jerry
Good Luck, Jerry
em14
Platinum Member
I would think that a good Pressure Treatment should last a very long time ... much longer than just a few years and not need to be painted (other than perhaps appearance -- it looks to me like it would be better to treat than paint or even to stain ... what does everyone think about that) ... I think there are several reasons wood is used on equipment trailers .. the wood absorbs shock from equipment without permanent deformation, it is a softer material than metal and therefore "grabs and holds" a steel Dozier Pad (Doziers can still slide off the side if you don't secure them well ... seen that happen) as well as the rubber tires of tractors, it has a better coefficient of friction, it's very strong and durable, you can toe nail chock blocks so they can be used at almost any place on the bed, and it is relatively easy to replace if damaged. Having said that ... hauling small rock is another story and you must cover the "holes" between the boards or just loose rock untill the rock closes the holes ...
Leo,
My father-in-law is a career farmer and occasionally gives me little tips and observations from a lifetime on the farm. On his last visit he asked why I painted the boards on my trailer bed. I painted them white...to look nice. He said painted wood deteriorates faster than non-painted wood. Paint will crack and peel and allow moisture to be trapped between the loose paint and wood which hastens rot.
I'm not sure if his "tip" is completely true, but I bet wood treated with wood sealer will last longer than painted wood, especially on a flat, horizontal trailer bed where water wants to puddle anyway.
You know, this thread has been very informative for me. It seems like both PT and steel both have strong advocates among the TBN stalwarts. The ONE aspect that all seem to agree on is that each has good longevity.
Everytime a read a pro-steel post I say...yeah, steel!! Then I read a pro-PT post and think lumber is the best way to go. Obviously, I have yet to make up my mind, but my original question about long bed life seems like it won't be a problem either way.
OkieG
My father-in-law is a career farmer and occasionally gives me little tips and observations from a lifetime on the farm. On his last visit he asked why I painted the boards on my trailer bed. I painted them white...to look nice. He said painted wood deteriorates faster than non-painted wood. Paint will crack and peel and allow moisture to be trapped between the loose paint and wood which hastens rot.
I'm not sure if his "tip" is completely true, but I bet wood treated with wood sealer will last longer than painted wood, especially on a flat, horizontal trailer bed where water wants to puddle anyway.
You know, this thread has been very informative for me. It seems like both PT and steel both have strong advocates among the TBN stalwarts. The ONE aspect that all seem to agree on is that each has good longevity.
Everytime a read a pro-steel post I say...yeah, steel!! Then I read a pro-PT post and think lumber is the best way to go. Obviously, I have yet to make up my mind, but my original question about long bed life seems like it won't be a problem either way.
OkieG
Cheaper to replace the whole trailer than a few PT boards? I do not know where ya'll live but my 16' trailer cost $1800 new and I bought it for $800 five yrs used. I replaced the 6 2x12's for $20 each.I do live right behind Coastal Lumber Company's mill but I still have to drive 30 miles to Home Depot to buy the stuff retail.How much is a PT 2x12x16 sell for at your local hardware store?Maybe I need to start buying trailers in your area and refurbing them and selling them in mine.Oh I love the smell of fresh terpentine in the morning.For those of you who do not know it comes from Southern Yellow Pine sap.Loblolly pines as far as the eye can see around my place. Maybe that is why they are cheap here?
I've decided that longevity is pretty much a non-issue with either PT or steel, thanks to all the posts on this thread. Thanks, for everyone's input.
The various advantages and drawbacks of PT vs steel are not so compelling for my useage to sway me one way or the other. In other words, I think I would be happy with either one.
Last week I called the steel yard for prices. I also asked about availability, but they didn't have 4 sheets in stock. Then, I shopped Home Depot for PT. I looked at 2x10s which sold for about $15 for a 16' length. It takes 8 pieces to cover the trailer bed, ie about $120 worth. Maybe I'm just too picky, but I couldn't find close to 8 good quality boards. I must admit I got tired of looking before I got to the bottom of the pile.
Four sheets of steel costs $252 plus tax. PT costs $120 plus tax. The trailer shop might install the PT for $40 if I supply the lumber, but I didn't ask since I couldn't find decent boards on my visit to Home Depot. I maybe could have found good boards at Lowe's or elsewhere, but I get tired real fast looking for good boards in a stack of construction grade lumber.
Anyway, I took the easy way out. The steel yard got a shipment yesterday. I bought 4 sheets today and dropped them and the trailer off at the shop. Tearing off the old boards and installing the steel sheets is $40. It should be ready to pick up in a day or two. The installer said he would even paint the bed for free... as long as black paint was OK with me. Heck, black is fine (my trailer is red). I don't usually color coordinate too well anyway.
OkieG
The various advantages and drawbacks of PT vs steel are not so compelling for my useage to sway me one way or the other. In other words, I think I would be happy with either one.
Last week I called the steel yard for prices. I also asked about availability, but they didn't have 4 sheets in stock. Then, I shopped Home Depot for PT. I looked at 2x10s which sold for about $15 for a 16' length. It takes 8 pieces to cover the trailer bed, ie about $120 worth. Maybe I'm just too picky, but I couldn't find close to 8 good quality boards. I must admit I got tired of looking before I got to the bottom of the pile.
Four sheets of steel costs $252 plus tax. PT costs $120 plus tax. The trailer shop might install the PT for $40 if I supply the lumber, but I didn't ask since I couldn't find decent boards on my visit to Home Depot. I maybe could have found good boards at Lowe's or elsewhere, but I get tired real fast looking for good boards in a stack of construction grade lumber.
Anyway, I took the easy way out. The steel yard got a shipment yesterday. I bought 4 sheets today and dropped them and the trailer off at the shop. Tearing off the old boards and installing the steel sheets is $40. It should be ready to pick up in a day or two. The installer said he would even paint the bed for free... as long as black paint was OK with me. Heck, black is fine (my trailer is red). I don't usually color coordinate too well anyway.
OkieG
Gary_in_Indiana
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Black & red is a good combination. Just add some black pinstriping to your fenders and siderails and you're all set. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Besides, with a black trailer floor snow will come off better in winter and you can match the paint more easily when you add your D-rings. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
One piece of advice on that; When you get your trailer back, load whatever you'll haul most commonly and center it just where you want it. Then attach your straps or chains to the load and take the loose end and pull them to where you'd ideally like to attach them. Mark those spots and you'll know where to install at least some of your D-rings.
Good luck with your "new" trailer. Take a picture before you send her in to the shop so we can see 'Before & After' shots here.
One piece of advice on that; When you get your trailer back, load whatever you'll haul most commonly and center it just where you want it. Then attach your straps or chains to the load and take the loose end and pull them to where you'd ideally like to attach them. Mark those spots and you'll know where to install at least some of your D-rings.
Good luck with your "new" trailer. Take a picture before you send her in to the shop so we can see 'Before & After' shots here.
em14
Platinum Member
I'm curious ... Will your cross bed supports be close enough to carry the load or are you going to beef the sub structure up ... steel sheet cannot carry a large semi concentrated load and will stretch and bend over time ... unless the steel is fairly thick ... also, is your steel bed going to be flush with the side rails like the timber was? ... I'm sure that the shop who is going to install it would check that ... Unfortunately , it looks like you almost need to use "scaffold grade" wood to get good stuff from many of these places now days or find a good lumber yard .. timber just isn't what it use to be ... good luck with your "new" trailer ...
Corm
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I've never had good luck getting decent lumber from any of the big box stores like Home Depot or Lowes. I have much better luck dealing with a lumber yard. When I needed some 20 foot PT 2x8's for the trailer I built two years ago, I went to my local lumber yard and ordered them (they didn't have 20 footers in stock). When I ordered them I told the owner that for the $$ he was charging me, I wanted every piece to be as straight as an arrow. They were.
As another poster mentioned, I'd also be concerned about the steel deck being supported well enough. I've seen quite a few steel deck trailers with bowed decks... Personally, IMHO, I think a wooden deck looks better, and is lots less slippery. Good luck with your new deck. Let us know how you make out with it. Pictures are always nice..../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Corm
As another poster mentioned, I'd also be concerned about the steel deck being supported well enough. I've seen quite a few steel deck trailers with bowed decks... Personally, IMHO, I think a wooden deck looks better, and is lots less slippery. Good luck with your new deck. Let us know how you make out with it. Pictures are always nice..../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Corm
Steven
Gold Member
I agree, I never buy lumber at home depot or other similar stores. I go to my local lumber yard find what i want put it in the truck and away I go. never have to look the piles over the lumber is always first rate. the best part is you do not have to load a cart then load it in the truck, it goes straight to the truck no second handling.
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