ROPS lights

[crazyal]

I finally got around to making brackets to mount some lights to the ROPS. I wanted something that wouldn't add any height but was strong enough to take a hit by branches. This is what I came up with. It's 1/8" diamond plate steel. Now I need to figure out how I want to mount the rear light then work on doing the wiring.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Very nice. Looks like it was designed that was from factory. No, they could not do anything that nice. Philip.

 

[Danner]

Very good job. :thumbsup:

Are you going to build some for sale to the rabble?

 

[Scooby074]

I like how the mount functions as a shield. Thats one of my issues with a ROPS mount,. Your system also seems to maximize the amount of clearance under the lights as well.

The only thing id do different is LED instead of Halogen. On my BX charging system i dont have much headroom as you have on the L?

Any closeups of the finished install?

 

[OrangeBeast]

Nice work my fellow Vermonter! :thumbsup: I did not want to make any holes in my ROP and I also wanted mine to be fully postitionable so I made a removable bar going across insisde the ROP out of pre-drilled angle. Not that I plan to take it off. It gives me the ablitiy to change the lights position and even add more if needed tool free.

 

[Mikeeemo]

It never ceases to amaze me, what a talented bunch of people on this site.

Great work ! Wish I had a set for my L4400...... ;-)

 

[crazyal]

I like how the mount functions as a shield. Thats one of my issues with a ROPS mount,. Your system also seems to maximize the amount of clearance under the lights as well.

The only thing id do different is LED instead of Halogen. On my BX charging system i dont have much headroom as you have on the L?

Any closeups of the finished install?

So far that's as far as I got. I already had the lights so that's what I went with. the only problem is they draw 4 amps each and the work light circuit only has a 10 amp fuse so I'm thinking of making it so I can have either both forward facing lights on or one forward and one reverse.

Nice work my fellow Vermonter! :thumbsup: I did not want to make any holes in my ROP and I also wanted mine to be fully postitionable so I made a removable bar going across insisde the ROP out of pre-drilled angle. Not that I plan to take it off. It gives me the ablitiy to change the lights position and even add more if needed tool free.

The brackets clamp onto the ROPS and I can slide them as needed. Sooner or later I'll have to face the choice of do I drill small holes and run the wires inside the ROPS or find a clean way to wire them on the outside that will not get yanked off by a branch. I'm thinking maybe using something like steel 5/16 or 3/8 tubing that I can weld brackets to clamp onto the ROPS.

 

[OrangeBeast]

Ah I missed that they were going to be clamped on! The way I delt with the wires is I got some 1/2 split tubing, pkg of long HD zip ties and ran the wires in the tube on the inside of the ROP. Ya I know its not 100% protected but unless I get a branch inside the ROP I'll be fine and as I mostly have no trees to worry about I'm ok with it this way. Plus easy to take off or change as nothing is permanent.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I started with wires tie wrapped to the rops, but it did not look very clean. I eventually drilled small holes for the wires to be run in the rops. I too was concerned with the amperage of the lights, so I just ran new fuses from the starter to new switches to control front and rear lights. Philip.

 

[crazyal]

I'm not really worried about a couple of small holes in the ROPS but I do raise and lower it and any wire harness would have to have enough slack to deal with the ROPS being up and down in the middle of winter. I'm not sure if the standard plastic wire loom. I figure I'll worry about it when the time comes.