ROPS lights

[crazyal]

I finally got around to making brackets to mount some lights to the ROPS. I wanted something that wouldn't add any height but was strong enough to take a hit by branches. This is what I came up with. It's 1/8" diamond plate steel. Now I need to figure out how I want to mount the rear light then work on doing the wiring.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Very nice. Looks like it was designed that was from factory. No, they could not do anything that nice. Philip.

 

[Danner]

Very good job. :thumbsup:

Are you going to build some for sale to the rabble?

 

[Scooby074]

I like how the mount functions as a shield. Thats one of my issues with a ROPS mount,. Your system also seems to maximize the amount of clearance under the lights as well.

The only thing id do different is LED instead of Halogen. On my BX charging system i dont have much headroom as you have on the L?

Any closeups of the finished install?

 

[OrangeBeast]

Nice work my fellow Vermonter! :thumbsup: I did not want to make any holes in my ROP and I also wanted mine to be fully postitionable so I made a removable bar going across insisde the ROP out of pre-drilled angle. Not that I plan to take it off. It gives me the ablitiy to change the lights position and even add more if needed tool free.

 

[Mikeeemo]

It never ceases to amaze me, what a talented bunch of people on this site.

Great work ! Wish I had a set for my L4400...... ;-)

 

[crazyal]

I like how the mount functions as a shield. Thats one of my issues with a ROPS mount,. Your system also seems to maximize the amount of clearance under the lights as well.

The only thing id do different is LED instead of Halogen. On my BX charging system i dont have much headroom as you have on the L?

Any closeups of the finished install?

So far that's as far as I got. I already had the lights so that's what I went with. the only problem is they draw 4 amps each and the work light circuit only has a 10 amp fuse so I'm thinking of making it so I can have either both forward facing lights on or one forward and one reverse.

Nice work my fellow Vermonter! :thumbsup: I did not want to make any holes in my ROP and I also wanted mine to be fully postitionable so I made a removable bar going across insisde the ROP out of pre-drilled angle. Not that I plan to take it off. It gives me the ablitiy to change the lights position and even add more if needed tool free.

The brackets clamp onto the ROPS and I can slide them as needed. Sooner or later I'll have to face the choice of do I drill small holes and run the wires inside the ROPS or find a clean way to wire them on the outside that will not get yanked off by a branch. I'm thinking maybe using something like steel 5/16 or 3/8 tubing that I can weld brackets to clamp onto the ROPS.

 

[OrangeBeast]

Ah I missed that they were going to be clamped on! The way I delt with the wires is I got some 1/2 split tubing, pkg of long HD zip ties and ran the wires in the tube on the inside of the ROP. Ya I know its not 100% protected but unless I get a branch inside the ROP I'll be fine and as I mostly have no trees to worry about I'm ok with it this way. Plus easy to take off or change as nothing is permanent.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I started with wires tie wrapped to the rops, but it did not look very clean. I eventually drilled small holes for the wires to be run in the rops. I too was concerned with the amperage of the lights, so I just ran new fuses from the starter to new switches to control front and rear lights. Philip.

 

[crazyal]

I'm not really worried about a couple of small holes in the ROPS but I do raise and lower it and any wire harness would have to have enough slack to deal with the ROPS being up and down in the middle of winter. I'm not sure if the standard plastic wire loom. I figure I'll worry about it when the time comes.

 

[MF 1532]

I'm not really worried about a couple of small holes in the ROPS but I do raise and lower it and any wire harness would have to have enough slack to deal with the ROPS being up and down in the middle of winter. I'm not sure if the standard plastic wire loom. I figure I'll worry about it when the time comes.

I ran my wiring through ROPS , and was concerned about pinching wires . Where the ROPS hinges I ran wires through a 2 foot section of rubber fuel line . When I raise or lower ROPS this fuel line seems to be tough enough to protect the wires .

 

[crazyal]

I had some more time to work on the lights. I moved the rear work light down under the ROPS so it wouldn't hit the lower part of the ROPS when folded down. I also did run the wires through the ROPS. The ROPS is 4 pieces. The top folding section and then the middle section and finally two pieces that attach to each axle. The wires come out of the ROPS right at the joint between the middle and lower sections. Since it's an unwelded seam it's not structural.

 

[OrangeBeast]

looks good! Thats an odd spot for a cup holder tho!

 

[bikerdib]

I thought about putting some work lights on the ROP on my B3300 also but then I realized; dusk is natures way of saying "time to quit and get some rest". :laughing:

 

[RaydaKub]

I thought about putting some work lights on the ROP on my B3300 also but then I realized; dusk is natures way of saying "time to quit and get some rest". :laughing:

Maybe for you. But for some of us that head into work while it's still dark and then get dragged into a meeting that lasts until it's dark again, the only seat time we can get is...when it's dark. Take it whenever I can get it! :thumbsup:

 

[PHILIP8N]

I rarely use my lights spring, summer, fall. They are used 90% of the time in winter moving snow early morning hours (5:00 am) or late into the evening/night. Philip.

 

[CHDinCT]

I rarely use my lights spring, summer, fall. They are used 90% of the time in winter moving snow early morning hours (5:00 am) or late into the evening/night. Philip.

Bingo! That's why I put lights on my BX. 99% of their use will be for snow removal. I added mine last March after snow season basically ended and have yet to find out how well they work. That should change soon enough however. :thumbsup:

I went with two 35 watt trap's for the front and one 35 watt flood for the back. Decided to go with 35 watts so I could run all three off of the 10 amp rear work light accessory circuit. I did run separate hots for the front and rear so I can use them independently. Along with the front headlights, it should be enough light for pushing snow at a whopping 5 mph. :laughing:

 

[bikerdib]

Snow??? Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

[bikerdib]

crazyal, how do you keep that tractor so shiny and clean?

 

[OrangeBeast]

crazyal, how do you keep that tractor so shiny and clean?

I know I was thinking that myself. Must be fairly new and spends more time washing her then there are hours on the clock. LOL j/k