Rolled my EX3200 and need help

[TDR]

Hello all, Hopefully back to the barn tonight. I will pull the rocker cover and do a visual for anything that is apparent under the cover. This tractor does not have any decompression levers..just turn the key to start (and smoke).
Do diesel engines run a solid lifter or hydraulic lifter style valve train? I am still waiting for my service manual.
Thanks as always for everyones patience and help.

 

[6thgpSF]

do'nt know about all diesels but my 1610d has solid lifters,,,russ

 

[Domush]

Mine are pushrod based. Adjusting them is very easy on this. .006" on mine. Not sure if that is common among all of them.

At the very least, if you can't wiggle it when it should be loose, you know it is getting stuck on something. If a lifter stays tight, I'd try the Seafoam before adjusting it, as it may be goop and you may be overadjusting it instead of fixing it.

 

[TDR]

Hello all, my newest problem has become finding the specs for this engine. Surprisingly, I cannot go to the Cub Cadet or MTD website and order the service repair manual for the EX3200. I have been told by both organizations the manual is only available for dealers. My dealer (who does not have a diesel mechanic on staff) confirmed this and said "sorry". Tonight I pulled the rocker cover..all looked well. Cranked the engine with a dial indicator on each individual rocker arms and all were equal. I then pulled the complete rocker arm assembly..all looked well. I pulled the push rods and rolled on my marble flat table...all rolled perfect. I put a straight edge across all of the valve stems as they are now in a fully seated position (no rocker arms installed)...the straight edge spanned all 6 at once and all were level. Unless there is damage at the valve seats all valve stems appeared ok. I have not been able to find a diesel valued compresion gauge locally yet so no compression numbers yet.
Here is the new discovery. I pulled the exhaust manifold off. Cylinder 1 (front) has a little black soot. Cylinder 3 (rear) has a little black soot. Cylinder 2 has that same black soot but looks as if it was sprayed with a thick coat of clear coat paint. I started the engine for 5 seconds and number 2 cylinder is definitely the culprit. The clear coat feels tacky but not wet like it is freshly coming in. I may put it back together and run to see if it burns off. If it does not end up burning off i have to disassemble the engine any way. Anybody have thoughts?

 

[winston1]

I read a post somewhere on one the the Yanmar/Cub Cadets and they were talking about manuals. This guy was looking to get one for his tractor, said it didn't come with one. This other fellow said his came in a tool box or some kind of container on the tractor. Can't remember exactly where it was located. Bottom line, the man looking for the manual did find one on his tractor in where ever that loaction was. You have probably checked all sights but just thought it worth sharing.

 

[Car Doc]

Getting fluid into a cylinder isn't going to bend valves or push rods think about it. A compression test is the only way to tell positively if a cylinder is down.

My guess is one is about 3/16-1/4" down and will be obvious if you can make references from one to another.

That is about how bad I usually see them and on a gasser that will make them miss but a diesel its a huge drop in compression and they need that to ignite the fuel they will miss a lot worse.

edit: The bad thing is if it has bent a rod and I will stake my reputation on this - the crank will be bent also and the engine will have to come out.

 

[Car Doc]

I would check with a JD dealer see if they have the compression tester since they use Yanmars in most of their small machines and if they would do it for you.

 

[TDR]

Hi all. Finally a break in the work schedule so now back to the tractor. First a couple of updates on past challenges: bought the compression tester for diesel motors but lacked the adapter for the 3TN motor so that is a bust but did find a 3TN service manual on the Internet.
The #2 connecting rod is bent. Several of you experts were confident of a rod being bent and you were correct. My humble apologies for skirting around and being hopeful of a simple fix. After pulling the cylinder head and hand rotating the motor it was obvious #2 piston was lower than the other 2. The dial indicator validated it was in fact .070" lower. Pulled the piston and found the rod has a distinct bend in it. I will order the parts Tuesday (a rod is $225 and the head gasket $105) and put back together next weekend. Fortunately I could get to the rod cap through the small access plate on the pan so I did not have to break the tractor in half.
I did document the whole process with step by step photos and tips in case anyone experiences the same mistake. I will post something after I complete the repairs. Thanks again to all.

 

[tcartwri]

You should have the crank magged as well. It is likely twisted or cracked. You are very lucky the rod didn't break.

 

[955Lincoln]

I will order the parts Tuesday (a rod is $225 and the head gasket $105) and put back together next weekend. Fortunately I could get to the rod cap through the small access plate on the pan so I did not have to break the tractor in half.
I did document the whole process with step by step photos and tips in case anyone experiences the same mistake. I will post something after I complete the repairs. Thanks again to all.

Outrageous prices on the parts

Looking forward to seeing the pics :thumbsup: