Neat 1500
Platinum Member
if you say it smells really diesely i wonder if the govenor or something in the pump is causing this? mine fired up without a whisp of anything so i guess i was lucky
Rolled my EX3200 and need help
- Thread starter TDR
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Brake Weight
Silver Member
My ym2000 has a decompression lever. I'm assuming the model in question does not, otherwise this would/should/could never happen during cranking.
I think these injector test results have screwed up the trouble shooting process. If the idle changed on all cylinders then the compression is fine. Yet it's spewing unburnt diesel out of the stack. Don't the injectors have a constant pressure on them during operation and then the mechanical pump cycles around to each injector giving a few hundred more psi to actually overcome and open the injector to spray fuel into the combustion chamber. If so, by cracking any one of the feed lines would bleed this constant pressure off and thusly stop the flow of fuel.
It may be best to find someone local that can come to your tractor and see it running. It's hard to diagnose a mechanical issue through letters. Over the phone it an be listened to. In person it can be seen, heard, touched, and smelled. My uncle owns/operates an ATV repair shop, has for at least 25 years now. He can do it in person within seconds with it in the back of a truck.
I'm in no way a diesel mechanic, my motor knowledge is from 5 years working for my uncle on gas(rice) burners. I'm starting to learn diesels one day at a time, usually as mine breaks and from TBN problems like this. I do think an actual compression test with a gauge is in order.
I think these injector test results have screwed up the trouble shooting process. If the idle changed on all cylinders then the compression is fine. Yet it's spewing unburnt diesel out of the stack. Don't the injectors have a constant pressure on them during operation and then the mechanical pump cycles around to each injector giving a few hundred more psi to actually overcome and open the injector to spray fuel into the combustion chamber. If so, by cracking any one of the feed lines would bleed this constant pressure off and thusly stop the flow of fuel.
It may be best to find someone local that can come to your tractor and see it running. It's hard to diagnose a mechanical issue through letters. Over the phone it an be listened to. In person it can be seen, heard, touched, and smelled. My uncle owns/operates an ATV repair shop, has for at least 25 years now. He can do it in person within seconds with it in the back of a truck.
I'm in no way a diesel mechanic, my motor knowledge is from 5 years working for my uncle on gas(rice) burners. I'm starting to learn diesels one day at a time, usually as mine breaks and from TBN problems like this. I do think an actual compression test with a gauge is in order.
If it has bent rods they will still ignite to some extent which it is doing that to but a lesser degree they will still lower the rpm.
Watching the tach carefully would be a way to tell if all were the same w/o a comp test and an incomplete burn will cause excessive smoke and smell.
Like has been mentioned diesel starters are pretty powerful and are geared way down even car engines will bend rods surprisingly easily especially when there is a lot of fluid in the cyl the rod will be on a sharper angle and they will give believe it. good luck
I have seen cars with cranks and rods bent so bad from sucking in water you could feel it in the clutch pedal fwtw.
Watching the tach carefully would be a way to tell if all were the same w/o a comp test and an incomplete burn will cause excessive smoke and smell.
Like has been mentioned diesel starters are pretty powerful and are geared way down even car engines will bend rods surprisingly easily especially when there is a lot of fluid in the cyl the rod will be on a sharper angle and they will give believe it. good luck
I have seen cars with cranks and rods bent so bad from sucking in water you could feel it in the clutch pedal fwtw.
955Lincoln
Gold Member
Good point, I was wondering if that was possible after I posted.
Good observation on the decomp that would have saved it for sure but even if he had one (we dont know yet) he may not have even thought of it in the excitement of flipping it back over and all?
Agree on the comp test. :thumbsup:
Brake Weight
Silver Member
Car Doc said:Good observation on the decomp that would have saved it for sure but even if he had one (we dont know yet) he may not have even thought of it in the excitement of flipping it back over and all?
Agree on the comp test. :thumbsup:
Even with a fully charged battery (I have to put mine on a charger every other month or so beings I work a 21/21 day rotation and don't run it some weeks home), mine won't turn over with out the decompression lever down. Kind of a weak starter setup, but I'll never have bent valves from it being too stout.
Hi guys, finally had a chance to get back to look at the tractor. I have pulled both the air cleaner assembly and the entire muffler/pipe assembly. It is now pure air in and open exhaust out. When I run the motor it now "pulses" the smoke out as if it is one cylinder is the culprit. I have run the motor for over 2 hours today and the pulsing smoke remains steady and with the same volume.....it looks like I am sending smoke signals. I do not see where there could be any air intake restrictions, I have blown out all of the fuel lines again. The muffler also showed no sign of oil having entered it.
So it must be down to the two final possibilities of too much fuel to a specific cylinder or a cylinder which has a compression problem? All of my compression gauges are for gas engines... So i need to buy one for this engine. What pressure should the gauge read up to? I have visited my "local" dealer and explained the situation. I fear they are not confident about their mechanics ability ... So I will keep looking for local expert that i can have listen to the engine as well.
Open to more suggestions and thanks!!
So it must be down to the two final possibilities of too much fuel to a specific cylinder or a cylinder which has a compression problem? All of my compression gauges are for gas engines... So i need to buy one for this engine. What pressure should the gauge read up to? I have visited my "local" dealer and explained the situation. I fear they are not confident about their mechanics ability ... So I will keep looking for local expert that i can have listen to the engine as well.
Open to more suggestions and thanks!!
Domush
Platinum Member
Any chance of posting a video of this happening? I'm sure there are more than a few experts who frequent here. Sometimes an easily overlooked sound speaks more than words ever could.
Good luck finding a solution. I'll be watching, as mine smokes as well (light grey smoke). I'll be removing my exhaust to see if I have a similar, limited to one cylinder, issue.
Any chance of a stuck or gooped up exhaust valve? That would certainly kill the compression as well as prevent complete burn. It would also be limited to one cylinder.
Have you tried using SeaFoam on it? That may be enough to get a proper seal of the valve if it is just gunk in there. I hear water does roughly the same thing, but SeaFoam is made with oil, so it burns in place of fuel.
SeaFoam how-to for diesels
Good luck finding a solution. I'll be watching, as mine smokes as well (light grey smoke). I'll be removing my exhaust to see if I have a similar, limited to one cylinder, issue.
Any chance of a stuck or gooped up exhaust valve? That would certainly kill the compression as well as prevent complete burn. It would also be limited to one cylinder.
Have you tried using SeaFoam on it? That may be enough to get a proper seal of the valve if it is just gunk in there. I hear water does roughly the same thing, but SeaFoam is made with oil, so it burns in place of fuel.
SeaFoam how-to for diesels
runningbird
Gold Member
did you ever pull the valve cover?
Neat 1500
Platinum Member
yep 1 of the cylinders is the culprit. pull the valve cover, inpect for too tight, bent push rods etc, compression test then would be the next step i guess. if thats OK then it can only be a broken oil ring or faulty injector pump?
