Rim Guard --> Beet Juice

[Anonymous Poster]

After reading the patent, and since you are sort of hands on with the product, how about some details? What is the viscoscity like, something akin to tomato juice, or what?
Also, what's the fiber content like?

best way to handle waste oil is either vacuum transferr or a piston pump. I use both in my operation, and am convinced a rotary pump just don't cut it in that application, especially when the oil is cold.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( My tire 14.9-26 holds about 47 gallons at 75% fill.)</font>

Interestingly enough, in looking at the patent, it is for both the ballast itself and the method of filling the tire with it ("Wheel with molasses ballast and method"). Actually there are a couple of methods described, including the mechanisms to accomplish them. One method utilizes two oppositely mounted installed valve stems, the other a duplexing arrangement via a single valve stem. The important thing is that the methods of filling the tire results in a tire with a near 100% fill.

The paragraph;

"Hicks '949 shows the use of a mineral composition with a cushioning agent as ballast for a vehicle tire. The cushioning agent is usually a lightweight particle having occluded air therein. The cushioning agent could be expanded minerals, expanded plastics, or expanded rubbers (natural or synthetic). Solid materials break down and are difficult to insert into the tire."

appears to explain the reasoning here. (BTW, it appears that there is an error in the patent itself- it refers to "Hicks '949" which apparently should be "Hicks '999") I suspect that the solids in the beet molassas act as the cushioning agent, preserving the pnematic action of an entirely filled tire. The referenced Hicks patent refers to a dry filled tire, but makes specific description of this action. This also explains the the choice of beet derived maolassas; "Unlike desugared cane molasses, which has only salt water as its final by-product, desugared sugar beet molasses has betaine, carbohydrates, cell wall amino acids, and contains 35-89% by weight solids from the beet fiber."

If it's weight you're looking for, it appears that Rim Guard is not only heavier than some other liquids, it allows a greater fill. My question to those who have spoken with Glen Daly,- In addition to the Rim Guard liquid itself, is he marketing the fill valve (Figures 3-5 of the patent) that allows (nearly) 100% fill through a single valve stem? That alone will give about a third again as much weight.

Now I have to figure out how I can explain it to the CFO that I need it...

 

[Charliebrn]

Don't forget that there is also a Gel fill available: If I remember right, the company is Agco and the product is Sof-fil. It has some advantages...it's not solid, but if you get a puncture, you won't be leaking and it's heavy. I filled my front wheels with this and they ended up about 50# each. Cost was something like $65 each. Another advantage is that it acts just like air is in the tire, you still have a nice ride. My dealer recommended it, and I'm very happy with them. It eliminated almost regular punctures that I got cruising around that back 40 after cutting.... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

<font color="blue"> I filled my front wheels with this and they ended up about 50# each. Cost was something like $65 each </font>

That was about what I paid to have the fronts on my Kubota B2910 foam filled. First time I have heard of gel filled tires.

Is that something the consistancy of Jello? Interesting...

 

[19th_VA]

I think we are talking about the same stuff here, if you are talking about Superflex from Arnco. Here's the link. Great stuff but cost prohibitive for the rears--$800 for the rears, if memory serves. Superflex

 

[Rowski]

Well... Still sitting on the edge of your seat...


Guess what John /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif... It worked /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Took me 1 hour 10 minutes to load one tire with 45 gallons of Rim Guard using my little drill pump. Not a record but got the job done. Used the drill pump after that to unload the other tire, about 70 gallons of calcium chlordie. Will finish load the other tire tomorrow. Had to wait for the paint to dry on the rim. I sandblasted the rust spot.

 

[Rowski]

Picture of the rust on rim prior to sandblasting.

 

[Rowski]

Rim after sandblasting

 

[Rowski]

My Rube Golberg setup.

Don't laugh to much.. it works /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.

 

[Rowski]

Picture of the All Mighty drill pump /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

The Makita drill has for sure done its duty over the last 15 years!

 

[AndyMA]

I've been running Rim Guard in my TN for over a year now. Dealer who put it in is Kahn Tractor, North Franklin CT mentioned above. I'm not so sure it's as non toxic as I thought. I had a nail hole in a 16.9 x 30 rear that I didn't notice for a week and when I came back the entire tire was flat and the ground was very sticky. I had a new tube put in the the tire refilled. This spring the entire area where the spill occurred looks like I sprayed roundup. It may just be the fact that 70 gallons of Rim Guard spilled in about a 5x10 foor area and puddled up. all in all I like the Rim Guard.

Andy

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">...It worked ... </font>

Excellent Derek!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

...but one question... why did you have to remove the wheels from the tractor to do this...? (why not leave them mounted?)

(when the tire bead is broken from the wheel like that... I'd worry about future seal problems and losing a few hundred dollars of rim guard on the ground some morning...)

 

[Rowski]

Originally when my valve stem was leaking I put the tire ar the 12:00 position. But the chloride was leaking right on to the tractor axle housing and operator deck mounting point. I didn't know how long it would be before I got it fixed. So I removed the tire. Them tires are sure heavy with 65 gallons of chloride. Also I needed to sandblast and paint the rims where the rust was. Most everone I talked to do it, as you mentioned, leave the rim on the tractor. It worked for me, may have made more work for myself, but what's new.

As far as bead seal not holding, I have tube type tires. Which is a good thing or a bad thing. I would have liked to have tubeless, would have saved me some time and money, for new tubes. My beads fully seated with about 25 psi, the tire says max seating pressure is 35 psi.

 

[timb]

Derek - are you saying that with the tubes you just re-filled with air normally and your tires reseated correctly at 25psi? I always thought that to get a tubeless tire to seat you had to hit it with a "blast" from a special (high volume) supply to "pop" it into place. (If you can't use a cinch strap to physically squeeze the tire out) Sounds like the tubes might be a big advantage in a do-it-yourself situation and only a small compressor.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( thought that to get a tubeless tire to seat you had to hit it with a "blast" from a special (high volume) supply to "pop" it into place )</font>

Nope, most of the time you can seat either tube type or tubeless without the special high volume equipment, but then every once in awhile you either need that or the cinch strap. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[agcomike]

I was wondering why you need rim guard for? calcium mix is said to be safe and effective down to -45.. as long as you fill it properly according to some ag engineers i talked too.. i know my old ford lawn tractor with 23's had some noticable leakage and rust so i'm realy not so sure about that eather..

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I was wondering why you need rim guard for? </font>
It's not that calcium chloride doesn't work or that it will freeze. The problem is when it leaks it will kill any vegetation it contacts. In some of his other posts, Derek inidcated it caused rust and that his tires were improperly filled.

 

[Kelvin]

Are there any updates to any of the information in these posts?

Is there a Rim Guard Web site yet?

Thanks,
Kelvin

 

[PineRidge]

I was wondering why you need rim guard? Why not bolt on wheel weights and slime in the tires to prevent flats? Is there a difference between weighted tires using wheel weights vs Rim Guard? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Kelvin]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is there a difference between weighted tires using wheel weights vs Rim Guard? )</font>

CENTER OF GRAVITY issues:

Fluid in Tires: Most of the fluid's weight would be below the center of the wheel (and below the tractor's center of gravity as well).

Wheels Weights: The weight of the wheel weights would be distributed such that there would be an equal amount of weight above and below the center of the wheel.

Conclusion: Using fluid in tires for additional weight will be more beneficial in lowering the tractor's center-of-gravity thus making the tractor more stable and safer.

OVERALL WEIGHT ISSUES:

I believe the following statements to be true, but don't have any data readily available to back up the statements:

(1) I believe that you can increase the weight of a tractor wheel more when using fluid than you can using wheel weights.
(2) Using fluid is cheaper than purchasing wheel weights.
(3) Assuming 200 to 300 lbs of weight, the fluid would be much easier to work with than the weights.

Kelvin