Retorquing wheels

[California]

cringe at the sight of an auto shop using an air impact gun on wheel lugs/nuts.

Aint that the truth. I took my year-old Subaru to a Subaru/Ford dealer for its first 10k service including tire rotation. They trashed the rotors with too much torque. The brakes had a severe surge the moment I drove it out, and I could barely get the lug nuts off with an X-style lug wrench when they should have been about 65 ft lbs. I finally had to replace the rotors. So much for 'dealer-quality' service. I haven't been back.

 

[hitekcountry]

Prosperity

Wow, Nothing like a picture to drive home a point. Thanks for posting that. I have to admit I”m one that has never torqued a wheel on anything, and I do own a torque wrench.

Ok so where do I go to get the torque setting for my truck?

 

[crbr]

Prosperity

Wow, Nothing like a picture to drive home a point. Thanks for posting that. I have to admit I”m one that has never torqued a wheel on anything, and I do own a torque wrench.

Ok so where do I go to get the torque setting for my truck?

Glovebox.

 

[prosperity]

Prosperity


Ok so where do I go to get the torque setting for my truck?

Mine are found in the operator manual
For an '03 F-150, it is listed with using the spare tire.

My wife's VW also shows it in the manual.

I like how Deere's manual is - there are a couple pages with just to torque values for the whole machine.

 

[Redbug]

From Roy Jackson...
Micrometer Setting: The "Click" or Break Away type most frequently used. It is suggested these be returned to zero or a bit below when not in use. Don't leave them at a torque setting as this can affect their accuracy (got this from a calibration lab).

Thanks Roy...For the tip on storing torque wrenches! I did not know that, and will set the ones I have back to zero. Who knew?

Also...for Prosperity...Those are interesting pics of the wallowed out lug nut rim holes. Was that caused by too much torque applied to the lug nuts, or not enough? Enquiring minds want to know...

 

[prosperity]

Also...for Prosperity...Those are interesting pics of the wallowed out lug nut rim holes. Was that caused by too much torque applied to the lug nuts, or not enough? Enquiring minds want to know...

Those wheels in the photo were from wheel bolts being loose - they were not re-torqued. Most small and medium sized tractors such as this call for re-torqueing the wheel bolts after the 1st 10 hours of use.

With that JCB backhoe, it could have been a disaster if the wheels came off while running down the road. It just so happened that when someone was using the hoe in the yard, when the operator lifted up the rear end with the stabilizers, someone came by and noticed the rear wheels were crooked when lifted off the ground.

2 new wheels @$500 a piece and very lucky nobody was hurt.

 

[canoetrpr]

Wow!. I can't believe the amount of knowledge I come away with from this forum.

I found during my current 50 hour service on my Kubota L3400 that I could have used a number of larger sockets. The largest drive I have is 1/2" and I don't have any sockets 7/8" and up. Inconveniently for me most bolts on tractors are bigger.

I'm trying to decide how best to invest my money.

Should I:

Option 1:
- Purchase some larger 1/2" drive sockets? I saw a good set that had 7/8" and larger 1/2" drive. I think there were about 6 of them so I *think* they will cover the range I need for my machine including wheels... but I better double check, (about 30$) and
- Purchase a longer 1/2" driver (about 30$) and some extensions so that I can have enough leverage do do wheel bolts.
- Purchase a decent quality (and long) 1/2" torque wrench - about $125.

Option 2:
- Add no more 1/2" drive sockets to my set and instead get a 3/4" set that covers 7/8" and up sockets - which is what I need. Saw one today for about $100.
- Get a 3/4" torque wrench - REALLY expensive!.

I'm inclined to go with option 1 for now as it makes sense for a lot of smaller than 7/8" bolts to have a 1/2" drive torque wrench anyway.

In a nutshell - can I get by just fine with a 1/2" driver for use on my tractor?

 

[RoyJackson]

In a nutshell - can I get by just fine with a 1/2" driver for use on my tractor?

In a nutshell, yes...or, at least, I have.

 

[Willl]

Anybody else go out and check their lug nuts after seeing prosperity's wheel picture ?

 

[RoyJackson]

I didn't, but I put a witness mark across the bolt/adjacent surface of the wheel last time I torqued them. If the marks aren't aligned, the bolt has loosened (which hasn't happened yet). If you want to do this, use a paint marker...never found anything else as durable.
I check the torque once or twice a season, but I look at them everytime the tractor is warming up for use.

 

[Redbug]

Hi Canoe,

Go with option 1. Complete your tool collection in 1/2". As needs and skills progress over the years then add the 3/4". I evolved in that way.

 

[madpogue]

In a nutshell - can I get by just fine with a 1/2" driver for use on my tractor?

In a nutshell, yes...or, at least, I have.

Wow, I'm relieved to hear that. We had to resort to 3/4 drive for our 790 last weekend. Just got it, and it was delivered with the narrow wheel spacing. Our neighbor, from whom we're renting the space, offered the use of his tools and a little assistance in switching them out. For the rears, we had to remove the eight carriage bolts / nuts holding the outer rim to the wheel "dish". I started to lean on one with a 15/16" socket, 1/2" extension, breaker bar and a piece of exaust pipe "cheater". I saw the extension start to twist, and wimped out and used his 3/4 stuff because I was afraid I was gonna break that extension. But now that I've busted 'em loose once (and worn the paint off the threads), they shouldn't present that kind of challenge again, so perhaps 1/2" will do from here out.

Oh, and Roy - the factory did exactly what you did - marked the lug bolts / rims so I could tell if any had moved. Thinkin' it through, I think I'll do that with the nuts on those carriage bolts.

 

[RoyJackson]

EDITED BY ROY
I started to lean on one with a 15/16" socket, 1/2" extension, breaker bar and a piece of exaust pipe "cheater". I saw the extension start to twist, and wimped out and used his 3/4 stuff because I was afraid I was gonna break that extension. But now that I've busted 'em loose once (and worn the paint off the threads), they shouldn't present that kind of challenge again, so perhaps 1/2" will do from here out.

Oh, and Roy - the factory did exactly what you did - marked the lug bolts / rims so I could tell if any had moved. Thinkin' it through, I think I'll do that with the nuts on those carriage bolts.

Wow! In an earlier post in this thread I wrote about not letting someone airgun your wheels on...
I'll wager the guy did just that. Those rear wheels are to be torqued to 137 Ft Lb's which ½" drive tools will handle with no problems. The manual calls out for progressive torquing and I suggest you do that. I went 50-100-137 (ft-lb)
Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

 

[Jay4200]

Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

You shouldn't need to retorque unless you have the spiffy aluminum tractor rims.

JayC

 

[madpogue]

Wow! In an earlier post in this thread I wrote about not letting someone airgun your wheels on...
I'll wager the guy did just that. Those rear wheels are to be torqued to 137 Ft Lb's which ½" drive tools will handle with no problems. The manual calls out for progressive torquing and I suggest you do that. I went 50-100-137 (ft-lb)
Don't forget to retorque the wheel in about 10 hours.

Does this apply to the carriage bolts/nuts fastening the outer rim to the "dish", as well as the central lug bolts?

Oh, and I presume those nuts were put on at the factory. There was paint on the washers, nuts, exposed threads, etc.

 

[BillyP]

Those wheels in the photo were from wheel bolts being loose - they were not re-torqued. Most small and medium sized tractors such as this call for re-torqueing the wheel bolts after the 1st 10 hours of use.

With that JCB backhoe, it could have been a disaster if the wheels came off while running down the road. It just so happened that when someone was using the hoe in the yard, when the operator lifted up the rear end with the stabilizers, someone came by and noticed the rear wheels were crooked when lifted off the ground.

2 new wheels @$500 a piece and very lucky nobody was hurt.

Did you post those same pics some time back? I've seen those same pics before.

 

[RoyJackson]

You shouldn't need to retorque unless you have the spiffy aluminum tractor rims.

JayC

Read your manual, Jay...look up wheel torque.
If you're refering to a post which I discussed aluminum wheels and torquing; they were for a car.

 

[RoyJackson]

Does this apply to the carriage bolts/nuts fastening the outer rim to the "dish", as well as the central lug bolts?

Oh, and I presume those nuts were put on at the factory. There was paint on the washers, nuts, exposed threads, etc.

That's a good question...my wheels are welded which are which is what I've seen used with R-4 Industrial Tires
I'd guess your tires are Ag (R-1's) which have the built up wheels.
So, I don't know if you need to, but it sure can't help if you do. Maybe someone with Ag tire experience will chime in...

Update: I was looking at the pic of your new 790...
Anyway, if those nuts and bolts loosen, you'll see the paint chipping or loosening too, so, IMHO torquing the rim/center section fasteners probably isn't necessary. However, suggest you go by your manual.

 

[prosperity]

Did you post those same pics some time back? I've seen those same pics before.

Yeah - was a couple years back I think.

 

[Willl]

but I put a witness mark[u/quote]

OK, but can't you lose some torqueness due to bolt stretch ?
Thus no moving marks ?