Replcement Engine for Troy-Built Horse
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OK, here are a few pictures. The first is with the exhaust cover removed to show the two straps. (You need to remove the air cleaner to get to the 2 screws in the front of the exhaust cover.) The 2 straps should go as low as possible on the side of the cover.
The second picture shows the finished cover re-installed and the cable end stuck into the trottle arm.
The third picture shows the excess cable draped over to the opposite handle bar and tie-wrapped to take up the extra slack.
I should also mention that you do need to pay attention to where the arm is set in relation to where the throttle lever on the handle is set before tightening the cable straps. Keep in mind that it will opperate exactly the opposite of the original. Idle is going to be where Fast used to be and vise-versa.
Later I realized there was an easier way to do this without removing air cleaner or the exhaust cover. All you need do is just remove the two nuts that attach the entire exhaust to the engine. Simple fix!
The second picture shows the finished cover re-installed and the cable end stuck into the trottle arm.
The third picture shows the excess cable draped over to the opposite handle bar and tie-wrapped to take up the extra slack.
I should also mention that you do need to pay attention to where the arm is set in relation to where the throttle lever on the handle is set before tightening the cable straps. Keep in mind that it will opperate exactly the opposite of the original. Idle is going to be where Fast used to be and vise-versa.
Later I realized there was an easier way to do this without removing air cleaner or the exhaust cover. All you need do is just remove the two nuts that attach the entire exhaust to the engine. Simple fix!
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I could but it's not much to look at, it's just the raw engine sticking out like the old one. It's an old workhorse covered with oil and dirt. The blue engine doesn't match the red tiller but I wasn't about to spend the extra 200 bucks to get red Honda just so it would look good. I'm a pragmatist, my only concern is how it works, I could not care less what it looks like.
The biggest difference is that new engine is probably 20 pounds lighter than the old one so in tough soil you would need to add some weight, otherwise it handles fine. The second biggest difference is that the old engine was a major pain in the *** to start, to the point where my arm would be sore. So far this one starts first pull every time without fail.
The biggest difference is that new engine is probably 20 pounds lighter than the old one so in tough soil you would need to add some weight, otherwise it handles fine. The second biggest difference is that the old engine was a major pain in the *** to start, to the point where my arm would be sore. So far this one starts first pull every time without fail.
Shmudda
Gold Member
Glad I found this thread. I also have an old Horse that had the Techumsa on it. I just ordered the HF 6.5 Grayhound motor for $94. I've been playing with the old motor to get it working but this will be much quicker.
Does anyone have a belt number to replace the two belts on the old horse? I know the belts are stretched as they slipped bad when I tried to move the tiller under power. Can I get new belts at the local auto parts house of lawnmower repair shop? Or order on-line?
Thanks!
Greg
Does anyone have a belt number to replace the two belts on the old horse? I know the belts are stretched as they slipped bad when I tried to move the tiller under power. Can I get new belts at the local auto parts house of lawnmower repair shop? Or order on-line?
Thanks!
Greg
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MtHam
Silver Member
I have an old horse that has only one belt that is slipping. I looked at the operators manual currently available online which shows an adjustment feature that doesn't seem to be present on mine. Does anyone know how this is done, or do I simply have to get a smaller belt?
2manyrocks
Super Member
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- Jul 28, 2007
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The HF 6.5 engine is now $94 and change, and if you use the 20% off coupon, that brings it to around $75.
The original 2 speed horse that uses 2 belts had a part no. of 1308 and the 4 speed horse that used 1 belt had a part no. of 1911. I think these part numbers have now changed, but the belts are available various places on line. TSC used to stock a replacement belt for the four speed horse.
On the horse, there should be an adjustment block right under the U shaped belt yoke. The gap between the roller wheel and the mounting bracket should be 1/4 inch when adjusted correctly.
When a belt gets worn out, it will slip no matter how you adjust it.
The original 2 speed horse that uses 2 belts had a part no. of 1308 and the 4 speed horse that used 1 belt had a part no. of 1911. I think these part numbers have now changed, but the belts are available various places on line. TSC used to stock a replacement belt for the four speed horse.
On the horse, there should be an adjustment block right under the U shaped belt yoke. The gap between the roller wheel and the mounting bracket should be 1/4 inch when adjusted correctly.
When a belt gets worn out, it will slip no matter how you adjust it.
