Chains Recommendations for tire chains on a BX?

[HeLa]

The Finnish can make a great tire chain.

i'll have to check those out.

not surprisingly, we also know winter tires. Passenger cars - Winter tires maybe i'm a *little* biased, but these are some of the best that i've ever used.

 

[tjl5709]

The first two seasons I got away without chains because we had minimal snow. This year, after the first 8" dump, I could tell pushing my front blade was going to be taxing if I got anything higher. Went with standard 2 link HD chains. We got 12" over the weekend (with 2 foot drifts), and am I glad I got the chains. No way I was moving that snow without them.

 

[Boscoe]

Okay, old thread revived but wanted to add to the discussion about tire chains. My 2011 BX 25 ran with 4 link spaced ladder chains front and rear. No problem with running them but had to remove the wheels in order to get the chains mounted. Last month I took delivery of a new BX25D-1 and ordered 1.5 inch Bora spacers for the fronts and 2" bora spacers for the rear. I then ordered Trygg Helene chains from Norway, which are easy on pavement but are good for snow or working in the woods The price of the chains is about 3 times higher for the fronts and 4 times higher for the rears over what's commonly available at local hardware joints. I live 24 miles to the nearest town. The towns in the other direction are over 40 miles away. Being this rural I have to be self sufficient and have always been independent. The Trygg chains had to be made, and will arrive in 6 to 8 weeks. Until they arrive the old ladder chains will have to do. The terrain here is up and down, with a nifty toboggan run for the grandkids.... and me too. The Trygg chains are diamond pattern. The tires are R4 Industrial. The Tryggs will ride on top of the tread and the diamond pattern makes for a smooth ride since the chains are always in contact with the ground. With the spacers and chains the ticket will be a bit over a grand. But its what I want. So far Northern MN doesn't have very much snow. Just nuisance stuff. Getting prepared for next year.

 

[Mowbizz]

Okay, old thread revived but wanted to add to the discussion about tire chains. My 2011 BX 25 ran with 4 link spaced ladder chains front and rear. No problem with running them but had to remove the wheels in order to get the chains mounted. Last month I took delivery of a new BX25D-1 and ordered 1.5 inch Bora spacers for the fronts and 2" bora spacers for the rear. I then ordered Trygg Helene chains from Norway, which are easy on pavement but are good for snow or working in the woods The price of the chains is about 3 times higher for the fronts and 4 times higher for the rears over what's commonly available at local hardware joints. I live 24 miles to the nearest town. The towns in the other direction are over 40 miles away. Being this rural I have to be self sufficient and have always been independent. The Trygg chains had to be made, and will arrive in 6 to 8 weeks. Until they arrive the old ladder chains will have to do. The terrain here is up and down, with a nifty toboggan run for the grandkids.... and me too. The Trygg chains are diamond pattern. The tires are R4 Industrial. The Tryggs will ride on top of the tread and the diamond pattern makes for a smooth ride since the chains are always in contact with the ground. With the spacers and chains the ticket will be a bit over a grand. But its what I want. So far Northern MN doesn't have very much snow. Just nuisance stuff. Getting prepared for next year.

Hello, if you don't mind, please share the type of chains which are supposedly, easy on asphalt pavement? On the Trygg site they all look pretty aggressive...I have turf tires on my BX25D and although they are good on ice and snow, a chain that doesn't grind up the asphalt would be nice! Thanks!

 

[Boscoe]

I mentioned it in my post. They are the Helene Style Chains. If you go to the Trygg website and read about the Helene style chain and look at the photo's instead of welded studs there are bars. The pressure points are not as rough on pavement as hardened studs. However the diamond pattern keeps the chains from getting lost between the tire lugs. The weight then is distributed to the bars located within the pattern on both the middle and sides of the diamonds. I really don't know how these chains would work on a turf tire. I suppose if I had turf tires and wanted to use them in snow I'de install studs, which would be equally expensive. It's a horse apiece. I ran out of options. I have a set of Grizzlar's, brand new rear chains that will adorn the wall in my shrine with other things I've ordered to see if they would work, and didn't. Peerless wouldn't build me a set and if they didn't neither would the many distributors of other chains that brag that they have chains to fit anything. This forum, like others is to share information so I don't mind the questions at all. I favor any feedback in efforts to find solutions to the things we all may need. Thank you for the inquiry!

 

[PILOON]

On turf tires cross links at every 3rd link is IMHO the way to go.

There is always at least two cross links in contact with the road surface hence no 'skip/grab' effect and the ride is so slick that you don't realize that you are riding on chains.
My CUT is dressed that way and I drive flat out w/o knowing that I'm chained. Also they don't scar pavement as they never slip.
I'll also add that my chains are the ice stud style that could really chew up asphalt. (but don't as they simply roll on)

 

[Mowbizz]

Oh...sorry I missed that the first time. No pictures on their website though...was wondering how they are different and how they are gentler on pavement?

 

[Mowbizz]

On turf tires cross links at every 3rd link is IMHO the way to go.

There is always at least two cross links in contact with the road surface hence no 'skip/grab' effect and the ride is so slick that you don't realize that you are riding on chains.
My CUT is dressed that way and I drive flat out w/o knowing that I'm chained. Also they don't scar pavement as they never slip.
I'll also add that my chains are the ice stud style that could really chew up asphalt. (but don't as they simply roll on)

Thanks for that info!

 

[Boscoe]

Chain: 5 or 7mm square chain with wear bars

Use area: goods transportation


Features
Indoor Outdoor Durability Comfort Grip
**** ***** ***** ***** ****



TRYGG Helene is our brand new product line for forklifts. Diamond pattern gives good maneuverability and good grip. Well suited for vehicles with limited space around the tires. Wear-bars are welded on all lying chain links. TRYGG Helene is more gentle on concrete and asphalt surfaces than a conventional studded chain. The continuous pattern allows precision driving.

Copied and pasted from the Trygg Website. A person could spend 8 hours on the site, and still will want to know more. The Bora Wheel Spacers came in today. Pretty good project when I don't really like fooling around with them today.

 

[thirdroc17]

In my experience over the last 50 years.

You can get by without chains if you have 4 wheel drive.

4 link chains are generally the cheapest, do help a lot, though can be a bumpy ride.

2 link chains cost more, help more and ride smoother than 4 link chains.

V-bar cross links dig in a lot more than the simple twisted links.

No chains means the least potential damage.

Twisted cross chains will do less damage than V-bar cross chains.

So it comes down to, do you just want to "get by"? Go whole hog and put on 2 link, V-bar chains? Or something in between?

While people complain about "marking up the driveway", to me it's a freaking driveway, something to be used, not to sit back and look at. That said, with my gravel drive, what could possibly construed as damaged? :laughing:

 

[Mowbizz]

In my experience over the last 50 years.

You can get by without chains if you have 4 wheel drive.

4 link chains are generally the cheapest, do help a lot, though can be a bumpy ride.

2 link chains cost more, help more and ride smoother than 4 link chains.

V-bar cross links dig in a lot more than the simple twisted links.

No chains means the least potential damage.

Twisted cross chains will do less damage than V-bar cross chains.

So it comes down to, do you just want to "get by"? Go whole hog and put on 2 link, V-bar chains? Or something in between?

While people complain about "marking up the driveway", to me it's a freaking driveway, something to be used, not to sit back and look at. That said, with my gravel drive, what could possibly construed as damaged? :laughing:

I wouldn't mind just "marks" on the driveway (newly paved this past Fall) but I would mind the chains pulling up chunks of asphalt as they roll over it...that would be my only concern with chains on the BX25D. Perhaps after another season of curing the pavement would be okay for chains. I haven't needed chains for anything I do yet but if I get a plow for the FEL to push the gravel section (400') of my driveway I think chains would be needed as it sometimes gets icy due to warm and cold cycles. The only time the chains would touch the pavement is when I'm scraping a smaller snowfall or putting the BX away.

 

[thirdroc17]

Chunks? Oh yeah, I can understand that concern. I seriously doubt standard twisted cross link could gouge asphalt. The aggressive V-bar, well, that could be a maybe I suppose. Depends on the weight you're carrying, other factors. Honestly, while I read the entire thread, I don't remember exactly what you are running, and I'm too lazy to read it again. :laughing:

I've ran all the above types of chains, but only on gravel and concrete. Since you're on asphalt, I might shy away from the V-bars. They are the most aggressive, thus help the most, the offset obviously being, well, they are aggressive. 2 link with twisted cross links is probably, in my not so always humble opinion, the best compromise between cost/traction/potential damage. It's also what I happen to be running now. But then, when I bought the tractor, a BX2670, I wanted chains, and they added these to the package saying I wouldn't need them. Half way through last winter, I was putting them on, not because I "needed" them, but because I could get done and back inside out of the cold faster. Currently, I have nothing but gravel and dirt, no concrete, no asphalt anywhere, not even inside the barn. I would have preferred V-bars as I have nothing to damage, but gladly took what was "thrown in".

Just as a side note. At one time I did have a set of 4 link, V-bar chains which I ran on turf tires. Worked quite well, but oh yeah, THAT was a bumpy ride!!!

It's always a compromise....

 

[Boscoe]

My driveway to the attached garage and driveway to my big "toy box" is gravel. Both garages have slabs inside the buildings and concrete aprons on the outside. Running R4 Industrial tires on my BX25D-1 the current ladder chains get in between the lugs. That's why I want diamond pattern chains that will remain on top of the treads. I run Vbar studded chains on the ATV and they will gouge the aprons and slabs if there is slippage. The BX is kept inside the attached garage that is heated.

 

[thirdroc17]

Yeah, that is a problem with R-4's, but not nearly as bad as losing them between the lugs of ag tires. That said, I've thought about adding links between my current cross chains to tie them together to alleviate that problem, but that takes a lot of connecting links.

Maybe someday when I'm rich, I'll buy all the components needed to make up my "ideal" set of tire chains to work with the R-4's. Though it would be cheaper to just put turf tires on another set of wheels and run my current chains on them. Then swap wheels/tires.

Actually, I wouldn't mind getting rid of the R-4's entirely. For my purposes, they suck. It's not the type of tire I wanted, nor needed, it's just the tires that were on the tractor.

 

[dragoneggs]

Yeah, that is a problem with R-4's, but not nearly as bad as losing them between the lugs of ag tires. That said, I've thought about adding links between my current cross chains to tie them together to alleviate that problem, but that takes a lot of connecting links. Maybe someday when I'm rich, I'll buy all the components needed to make up my "ideal" set of tire chains to work with the R-4's. Though it would be cheaper to just put turf tires on another set of wheels and run my current chains on them. Then swap wheels/tires. Actually, I wouldn't mind getting rid of the R-4's entirely. For my purposes, they suck. It's not the type of tire I wanted, nor needed, it's just the tires that were on the tractor.

I like the idea of having a spare set of turfs with chains mounted and quickly swapping when needed. I am going to have to look into that.

 

[Boscoe]

I think turf tires and chains would be awesome in the winter time. Hopefully the Trygg "Helene" chains will be in soon. Am getting by with 4 link standard chains now but I've been using my small John Deere tractor with turf tires and chains to plow my driveway. Not too much snow to deal with this winter in Northern MN. No doubt this area will get socked in when March arrives. By then I should have the new style chains in and installed. Am anxious to try the 2767 snow plow on my BX. But if no big storms hit I won't be disappointed. Motorcycle riding fever is getting pretty strong.

 

[RaydaKub]

I like the idea of having a spare set of turfs with chains mounted and quickly swapping when needed. I am going to have to look into that.

I bet that would make putting the chains on a totally different experience. Make them kinda hard to handle, especially with fluid. But changing a tire might still be preferred by some. I have never mounted chains on anything so have no experience at all.

 

[dragoneggs]

I bet that would make putting the chains on a totally different experience. Make them kinda hard to handle, especially with fluid. But changing a tire might still be preferred by some. I have never mounted chains on anything so have no experience at all.

I don't use filled tires and my BX rears are manageable to handle. I can see a bigger wheel/tire might persuade me to think otherwise.