Snow Attachments rear blade questions (for snow removal)

[peterc38]

So I have a Kubota B7610 that I purchased in August and I am pondering the purchase of a rear blade to use primarily for snow removal. My driveway is not huge, about 140 long, it is about 12 ft wide where it meets the road and widens out to about 24 ft near the garage. There is also an area to back out when pulling out of the garage on one side. The driveway material is asphalt. The location is southwestern Maine. Typically we get a fair amount of snow and a lot of cold. Yes , sometimes we can get whacked with 3 ft+, but a lot of the snow falls into what I would consider the nuisance category 5-8 or so at a time. This year for the deeper snow I also purchased a Honda track drive snowblower that is very powerful and works quite well (although it does not seem to get right down to the pavement, so I think I need to adjust the skid shoes). I think a rear blade would be a better and faster option for the lesser snowfalls. I have a Woods box scraper that I used to plow some snow with (in reverse) and it actually worked great, but since it is so heavy, I was afraid it might cause excess wear on the boxblade. It did not seem to affect the asphalt as long as it was set at the right angle.

I did a search and it seems some people have used box scrapers for snow removal but there was limited discussion on it. Should I continue to use this or go with the rear blade? I could get a rear blade @ TSC for under $300 or I could go with a Woods rear blade (model # RB60) from my tractor dealer that is more heavy duty and also has the tilting feature (which I like) for $475. I would appreciate any input, thanks.

 

[kbotaman]

In my area a 1/2 inch snow is a nuisance snow 5-8 inches is a blizzard, I have used both a box and a blade to do my driveway about 12 foot wide area in front of garage is probably 30 x 24. I currently use a box blade, but for snow I prefer the grader blade. I turn the blade backwards and angle the moldboard and push the snow off to the sides of my driveway. The box blade seems to take longer, but a 2-3 inch snow is what we get the most of and it has usually melted off in a couple of days.

 

[jimmer2880]

I would actually try to get a regular snow plow fitted to your tractor. Either on the rear, or on the front. The main reason for that, is for the "trip" ability of a snow plow.

I once added trip springs to a scraper blade that was turned into a front mount blade. But, I'll never do that again. Next time, I'm going to get an older snow blade & make it fit the tractor (I have my eye on one 1/2 mile up the road right now - just waiting on it to get lower in price). They can be found for in the $200.00 range (well used of course).

 

[2manyrocks]

I'm just going to ask if there's much of a chance of tearing up your asphalt removing snow with a rear blade? Then the thought comes to mind whether it would make sense to sandwich a heavy piece of plastic or rubber between the cutting blade and the rear blade to actually be the piece that contacts the asphalt.

If you haven't read this discussion, it's a good one. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/112009-snowplow-test-1-a.html

 

[automech]

If you are just doing snow removal, you probably don't need to spend big bucks on extra heavy duty/tilt. Get the rear blade with the tallest blade for the cheapest price.

 

[RoyJackson]

I've used a rear blade to plow my drive (and neighbor's) for 6 years now.
My drive is gravel.
A blade works quite well...just lower it to the ground then raise it about a half inch. For me, that reduces the gravel pushed into the grassy area. For an asphalt drive, keeping the blade slightly off the ground reduces damage to the asphalt.
The convex side works quite well. You can either plow in reverse or, if your blade rotates 180 degrees, you can drive forward. Using the convex side also reduces damage to the drive...less likely to dig in as the concave side would do.
For heavy snows (8" plus), I drive forward with the blade an inch or two above the driveway surface. That way, I can use the loader bucket as well as the blade. Less then 8", I just drive in reverse and push the snow off the drive and parking area.

There have been a few TBNers who added a non-metallic strip at the bottom of the blade. From what I read here, they work well too.

So, if you're going to plow with a rear blade, use the convex side of the blade. Raise the blade slghtly off the asphalt to reduce any damage. The blade should be on a 20 to 30 degree angle relative to the direction of travel.

I do suggest a 6' blade to ensure you clear a path wider then your tractor (even when the blade is angled).

 

[rickster]

I have the woods RB72 I think its a pretty nice back blade.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I have used a rear blade on asphalt for 20+ years to plow snow.
2 in. deep to 3 ft. deep and all depths in between.

If your pavement is smooth, you won't damage it. If it has cracks, and uneven edges that the blade can get caught on, that's a different story.

For the big events, I try to clear it several times during the storm, rather than be faced with "feet" of snow all at once.

On the pavement , very similar to what Roy suggested, lower your blade, then raise up slightly until the blade is just about to lift off the surface, but, I say makes sure it is still touching. This accomplishes two things,
1. it shifts some of the weight of your blade to your tractor, for traction.
2. unless your pivot point on your blade is super tight, it will kind of float on the surface. My grader blade is a little loose, so it can teeter end to end, maybe an inch. if you have the model that uses a Bolt/KingPin, you can actaully dial in a little looseness.

Also using your toplink experiment with the angle-of-attack. Sometimes a steep angle works better, other times a shallower angle works better. Just like snowflakes, each snow event is a different consistancy.

My prior asphalt drive was about 400 feet long, so when comparing, if yours is 140 feet, you should be able to clear it pretty quickly in all but the worst conditions. When it snows those monster depths, just concede that you will be going forward and backward a lot, pushing the snow at a 45 dgree angle off one side of the drive, takes longer, but it might be tough trying to push 30" of snow up/dwn the driveway, it piles up fast! And this is why I prefer to go out and clean it off every 6 to 8 inches or so.

If your pavement is choppy, uneven, with exposed cracks/edges, then you can add the rubber strip, the flexible rubber should float over those spots that the steel edge may otherwise catch.

good luck, post pics!

 

[bigdad]

Peter,

Check out the many Posts on Gauge wheels on RB's. I Use an RB to plow snow and the wheels keep the edge off of the surface. I set mine about 1/4 inch off of the surface. Like Skunk says a little slop in the blade helps the blade flex a bit over uneven areas. I sometimes pull the pin on the horizontal adjustment of mine and really let it float.

Does your 7610 have a FEL? With that much snow, you're gonna need to actually lift and move piles. I would say that a six footer would cover your tracks even in the angled position.

Good luck and have fun!

BD

 

[RalphVa]

I use a light weight (Frontier 5') rear blade in combo with my FEL to move snow here near Charlottesville, Va. We don't get anywhere near the snow you get, typically 4"/fall and about 5 falls.

The Frontier blade I have has a manual swing and blade angle. The tilt is achieved by adjusting the 3ph lower arm that's adjustable. Usually, I only use the manual swing. Usually swing it straight and go down the middle and then swing it one way and do one side, u turn and do the other side. For any buildup, I use the FEL to move that, or to get in spots I can't get to with the back blade.

My driveway is paved and about 300' long. The back blade scrapes it pretty clean. My Gravely snow plow never did cuz it ran on skids that kept it a tad off the surface. Unless you use it on pavement that is less than one year cured, running it right on the surface won't hurt it.

Ralph

 

[jdgreg]

I used an off-brand back blade for many years removing snow, never hurt my asphalt driveway. Just be forewarned, if you hit an immovable object, you very likely will do damage to the tractor or blade. If snow work will be it's main focus, suggest you find a good used one, or a cheap one. If it gets all bet up (and trust me, it will), you wont be out a lot when you resell it. Depending on the amount of snow fall you get, a front blade (FEL or frame mount) is the better way to go. I've never used a box blade for snow, so cant comment on that, other than you'll have a lot more weight on it than a regular blade, possibly damaging your asphalt. Also, you wont be able to angle the box blade to push snow off the drive.

 

[Youare]

I have a Woods RB72 on A Kubota L3000DT that I use form snow removal. Being in New Hampshire we can get over a foot of snow in one storm. I have a dirt driveway and road that I plow. Before the ground freezes I try to use the rear blade backwards so it does not dig into the ground. You can also change the angle of attack with the top link to keep the blade from digging in.

Some people put a thick piece of rubber on for a "cutting edge" to keep paved driveways from being scraped by the metal cutting edge. A horse stall mat cut up works well for this.

Just remember to push the banks back to begin with. You can also use the FEL to push back the snow banks. The down side of a rear balde plowing snow is you can not get going fast enough for it to wing the snow like a plow on a truck. But with a little experimenting you can get the job done.

Randy

 

[BizDoc]

Prior to this year I have used a back blade for plowing my drive way, about 150'. The back blade worked fine. I have left the blade the entire way down to the driveway with no problems. Someone else stated that if the driveway is smooth, there won't be any problems, and I also found that to be true. I used it both to push and pull snow. Both worked. I usually pushed it (running backwards) when there was 8 inches or more.

 

[daveinnh]

I have a Kubota L4310 with loaded rears. The dealer supplied a Tufline 7' rear blade. Probably heavier than the 2 models you're looking at. He had cutomer problems w/ Landpride and didn't carry due to several "crimping".

It works well up to a ~6" snow depth; deeper than that, I take a partial pass. Others have said if it didn't work well, move up to a front blower (rear blower is awkward).

Our drive is ~ 700 LF with a 150' circle. The drive has crushed gravel that freezes hard. We put crushed stone near the house to avoid tracking in the sand, but the stone moves when bladed - i.e. have to use care.

I've seen a local contractor use a front blower and rear sand spreader - covers all the bases- not cheap though.

 

[Northland]

We get a lot of snow here where I live. I have a 6 foot KingKutter 14" high rear blade from TSC that only cost $275.

I recently reversed the front tires and bought tire chains for the front R4's. I now have v-bar chains on the front and back tires. With the rear blade down and FEL bucket down my B7800 has turned into a tank for moving snow. I found without traction it took too long to push the snow.

It works so well I can forego buying a snowblower...for now at least

 

[JB4310]

I have a Woods RB72 on A Kubota L3000DT that I use form snow removal. Being in New Hampshire we can get over a foot of snow in one storm. I have a dirt driveway and road that I plow. Before the ground freezes I try to use the rear blade backwards so it does not dig into the ground.

Randy

That's what I do, I added a significant amount of weight to help stop the plow from riding up over the snow when back blading.

 

[JB4310]

Sorry for the huge picture, here are a couple more a little smaller. this is a model 45 (72") I put the trailer jack on as a a stand.

 

[hockeyhead]

I tried using the FEL and 5' box blade for snow removal the first winter I had the tractor and it did not work for me. I went back to the the 4-wheeler and a 4' plow blade that winter.
I now use a 6' TSC KK grader blade on the TC-30 for snow plowing and it works well. I still use the loader bucket to move the pile when I can't push it anymore.
We have about a 175' drive that is gravel except for the 40' of concrete in front of the garage.

 

[hagman]

Peter,

I too have a B7610 and just recently purcvhased a rear blade primarily for snow removal. I have used it now just 2 times but it works great. I bought a King kutter from a local Farm N Fleet. It is a lighter model (5 ft that weighs in at around 200lb.) Like you I will use it mainly for snow removal. In where I live that's 2"-8" on avaerage. I use my FEL on my gravel drive but I also do several neighbors drives that are blacktop. That's where the rear blade really shines. I can do their drives about 50% faster with the rear blade. If you're not going to be using a rear blade for haevier work get the lighter model and you'll be fine with it.

Hagman

 

[dillo99]

I was cleaning my drive with just the loader until about 2 years ago. I bought a light duty rear blade and it works great. I go in one direction with the loader and then just back up using the rear blade at an angle. Works great and is quick. If we get a lot of snow, I may have to do more loader work to make room for the rear blade to push stuff off the driveway, but it is not a big deal.

It would be nice to have a regular plow as some have suggested but the rear blade is a cheap and functional option. No driveway damage at all for me - one advantage of a light blade.