Rear blade decision

[Overtaxed]

Looking for some ideas on a rear blade. I have a few miles of trails that I need to maintain, the box blade does a great job for the most part, but it leaves the trails dead level side to side which makes rainwater pool and cut channels. So I need some way to crown the trails and I was thinking a rear blade would work, set it at an angle, let it dig with a corner and throw the scarf up onto the trail. Then use the BB to smooth everything out leaving a ditch on both sides. First question, is a rear blade a good/right tool for this? Seems like it should work, but my soil is heavy clay, so.. Next question; how much to spend on this thing? Seems like this is going to be a tough life for a blade (moving virgin soil around), so I was thinking going heavy duty, but, if this is child's play, tell me, and save me some money!

Finally, specific brand recommendations/features? I've got rear remotes, so was interested in getting hydro tilt/angle/offset.. But do I really need all 3?? I'm not sure I need any of them if I'm just cutting a ditch always on the right hand side of the tractor? But I love hydro adjust, so.. Might be worth it.. Adding hydro adjust to my BB (via a top link from Fitrite) has greatly increased it's utility and ease of use, so I don't want to cheap out on the blade just to find that I really should have gotten hydro because I wind up adjusting it all the time.

I've been looking at the EA models, they have 2 that interest me, the extreme duty and the Landshark models. The ED model doesn't have hydro options, is lighter, and quite a bit cheaper. Anyone have that and happy/not happy with it? Bonus if you're trying to move GA clay around with it!

 

[Jchonline]

It sounds like a rear blade is the ticket. I have top/tilt with my hydraulic angle blade. So I have 3 rear remotes. 1 for top link hydraulic control, 1 for lower right link hydraulic control (ie the tilt) and the last is hooked into the hydraulic cylinder on my rear blade that controls the angle. With these 3 I can control everything I need from the seat.

Of note, these are NOT necessary. On your existing top and lower links you have settings/pins to raise and lower them manually. On a non-hydraulic rear blade, most have angle settings that can be changed with a simple pin adjustment. So you can do it without any hydraulics.

I mainly got mine because I plan on using the rear blade for snow and I dont want to spend the time in the cold messing with it.

My rear blade is a land pride RB3784. Make sure you get a blade that will stick out far enough to the side of your tractor when it is angled. So you usually want one size wider than your rear wheel width. The heavier blade the better. You dont want one that bounces around on hard pack...or one that will easily bend if you catch it on something behind your tractor.

 

[Turbys_1700]

Looking for some ideas on a rear blade. I have a few miles of trails that I need to maintain, the box blade does a great job for the most part, but it leaves the trails dead level side to side which makes rainwater pool and cut channels. So I need some way to crown the trails and I was thinking a rear blade would work, set it at an angle, let it dig with a corner and throw the scarf up onto the trail. Then use the BB to smooth everything out leaving a ditch on both sides. First question, is a rear blade a good/right tool for this? Seems like it should work, but my soil is heavy clay, so.. Next question; how much to spend on this thing? Seems like this is going to be a tough life for a blade (moving virgin soil around), so I was thinking going heavy duty, but, if this is child's play, tell me, and save me some money!

Finally, specific brand recommendations/features? I've got rear remotes, so was interested in getting hydro tilt/angle/offset.. But do I really need all 3?? I'm not sure I need any of them if I'm just cutting a ditch always on the right hand side of the tractor? But I love hydro adjust, so.. Might be worth it.. Adding hydro adjust to my BB (via a top link from Fitrite) has greatly increased it's utility and ease of use, so I don't want to cheap out on the blade just to find that I really should have gotten hydro because I wind up adjusting it all the time.

I've been looking at the EA models, they have 2 that interest me, the extreme duty and the Landshark models. The ED model doesn't have hydro options, is lighter, and quite a bit cheaper. Anyone have that and happy/not happy with it? Bonus if you're trying to move GA clay around with it!

IMHO I would first take my box blade with scarifiers and loosen up the soil. You can crown your road with the box blade by lowering one of your 3 point lower links. If it is red clay that will work better. Then you can take the scrape blade to it. In my experience red clay is difficult to scrape with a blade without first loosening it up.

Get as heavy a rear blade that you can afford. The heavier the better. A good rule of thumb is 100# per foot of blade for heavy duty. This is a general rule and not set in stone. I inherited my dad's old Super Rhino 8 foot blade. It weighs 760# according to Rhino's literature, has cat 1&2 hitch, a 3" king pin, and is rated for a 120 HP tractor. I consider it heavy duty.

 

[fried1765]

Looking for some ideas on a rear blade. I have a few miles of trails that I need to maintain, the box blade does a great job for the most part, but it leaves the trails dead level side to side which makes rainwater pool and cut channels. So I need some way to crown the trails and I was thinking a rear blade would work, set it at an angle, let it dig with a corner and throw the scarf up onto the trail. Then use the BB to smooth everything out leaving a ditch on both sides. First question, is a rear blade a good/right tool for this? Seems like it should work, but my soil is heavy clay, so.. Next question; how much to spend on this thing? Seems like this is going to be a tough life for a blade (moving virgin soil around), so I was thinking going heavy duty, but, if this is child's play, tell me, and save me some money!

Finally, specific brand recommendations/features? I've got rear remotes, so was interested in getting hydro tilt/angle/offset.. But do I really need all 3?? I'm not sure I need any of them if I'm just cutting a ditch always on the right hand side of the tractor? But I love hydro adjust, so.. Might be worth it.. Adding hydro adjust to my BB (via a top link from Fitrite) has greatly increased it's utility and ease of use, so I don't want to cheap out on the blade just to find that I really should have gotten hydro because I wind up adjusting it all the time.

I've been looking at the EA models, they have 2 that interest me, the extreme duty and the Landshark models. The ED model doesn't have hydro options, is lighter, and quite a bit cheaper. Anyone have that and happy/not happy with it? Bonus if you're trying to move GA clay around with it!

I have a 6'- EA "Deluxe 6 Way Scrape Blade".
I bought a 7'- KK blade first, and used it only once. The KK offset function is a bad joke.
The EA "extreme duty blade" you are considering, is essentially the same design as my Deluxe blade.
You need the heavier blade. I have 32HP, you have 60HP
I would HIGHLY recommend the EA extreme duty blade. The design is the most well thought out I have seen, and the welding is excellent.
Be prepared though: Most will agree that the EA paint quality stinks!
I did not think that it was possible to apply half a coat of paint,...but it is.

 

[Overtaxed]

I have a 6'- EA "Deluxe 6 Way Scrape Blade".
I bought a 7'- KK blade first, and used it only once. The KK offset function is a bad joke.
The EA "extreme duty blade" you are considering, is essentially the same design as my Deluxe blade.
You need the heavier blade. I have 32HP, you have 60HP
I would HIGHLY recommend the EA extreme duty blade. The design is the most well thought out I have seen, and the welding is excellent.
Be prepared though: Most will agree that the EA paint quality stinks!
I did not think that it was possible to apply half a coat of paint,...but it is.

Do you miss not having hydro functions? Is it a constant on/off the tractor or do you just set it, cut, and then put it away? The EA extreme is about 1000 bucks less than their Land Shark model which is the one where you can add hydro. Adding in the hydro functions, it's probably another 1300 bucks or so (total) over the extreme version. Just wondering if it's worth it, especially if I already have TnT. Hydro angle sounds nice, but would it be something I'd really use?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My recommendation is to get the hydraulic side link, that way you have hydraulic tilt for all of your implements. Get either a Land Pride RBT3596 or a RBT4096. Get either with Hydraulic angle and offset and SKID SHOES. Then you need a rear diverter system to get you the additional rear remote outlets that you will need to easily control everything.

I don't think that any other manufacturer has more offset at 30" than Land Pride units of this size-duty. I highly recommend the Land Pride RBT series rear blades

I can probably save you some $$$ if you order the rear blade with no adjusters on the angle and offset and get those hydraulics from me.

This is no small investment if you get everything to make life easier, but you will thank yourself every time you use it.

 

[fried1765]

Do you miss not having hydro functions? Is it a constant on/off the tractor or do you just set it, cut, and then put it away? The EA extreme is about 1000 bucks less than their Land Shark model which is the one where you can add hydro. Adding in the hydro functions, it's probably another 1300 bucks or so (total) over the extreme version. Just wondering if it's worth it, especially if I already have TnT. Hydro angle sounds nice, but would it be something I'd really use?

It all depends on how much convenience you want, and what you feel you can afford.
I would love to have all the fancy dancy hydraulic move everything up and down and sideways stuff, but I am not willing to pay for it.
The 6 way manual blade that EA is making/selling is just fine with me.
I am 78 years old, and have no trouble making blade adjustments.
I do have a hydraulic (self built) tilt function.

 

[Bigpuddie]

Take a look at the Woods RB96.60. Get the hydraulic angle and offset with manual ratchet tilt. Excellent blade! About $2200...money well spent

 

[fried1765]

Take a look at the Woods RB96.60. Get the hydraulic angle and offset with manual ratchet tilt. Excellent blade! About $2200...money well spent

6 months ago I paid $820 for my new EA 6 way deluxe (6') scraper blade for my 32HP tractor.
In my opinion:.... Not a whole lot of money...."well spent"

 

[BMan2005]

You could try like mentioned about to just adjust a side link down to allow one corner of the box to dig a ditch and push the dirt up on the road then adjust it where it is just slightly tilted and make a few passes to see if it値l give you the amount of crown you like then set it level and finish the job. Disadvantage is you will have to ride in the ditch if you make more than one pass. But, this could do good enough and save you some money.

If you really think you need a rear blade and buy a 6 way definitely look into how much offset it has. You want the most you can get if you are already spending the money. It will keep you out of the ditch when pulling them. Also weight is like with most ground engaging implements is your friend. My Land Pride RBT 4096 has 30” of offset. Also, I ordered mine without the adjusters and ordered my cylinders from Fit Rite.

Look at the Tufline, Allied, Dirt Dog, Land Pride, Woods, and Bison just to name a few others outside EA. All make great blades!

This is mine pulling ditches with the offset keeping me on the road.

 

[Fallon]

I have a heavy Gannon box blade & decent but narrow LandPride LPGS. Not to mention FitRite TnT. I can't say I have many answers on what works, but what I can say what is lacking. Subscribing to see what others have to say.

TnT makes the box blade work better but the side link really has no effect on the LPGS. Messing with tilt really has no effect on either impliment helping put a crown on a driveway. I've been contemplating picking up a back blade just for crowning driveways. Possibly a lighter cheap blade as I can rip & loosen with the other impliments.

Only something with angle on the blade can roll material to the center of the road. The angle on the LPGS blades does nothing for lateral movement of material.

For now I just do a herringbone pattern down the driveway with really short pulls. Usually with the LPGS. The low blades on the LPGS don't move a lot of material in this scenario, especially compared to the box blade, but its enough. Then I come back & smooth lengthwise while keeping the crown. Its slow but gets the job done for now.

 

[Bigpuddie]

6 months ago I paid $820 for my new EA 6 way deluxe (6') scraper blade for my 32HP tractor.
In my opinion:.... Not a whole lot of money...."well spent"

No disrespect intended, but that is a toy compared to a RB96.60. A 30 hp tractor wouldn't move it far

 

[Tractor Seabee]

IMHO I would first take my box blade with scarifiers and loosen up the soil. You can crown your road with the box blade by lowering one of your 3 point lower links. If it is red clay that will work better. Then you can take the scrape blade to it. In my experience red clay is difficult to scrape with a blade without first loosening it up.

Get as heavy a rear blade that you can afford. The heavier the better. A good rule of thumb is 100# per foot of blade for heavy duty. This is a general rule and not set in stone. I inherited my dad's old Super Rhino 8 foot blade. It weighs 760# according to Rhino's literature, has cat 1&2 hitch, a 3" king pin, and is rated for a 120 HP tractor. I consider it heavy duty.

You can always add weight. I use suitcase weights for that. The 50# increments allowed tailoring. You, might also consider gauge wheels or skid shoes. They (LP) make a blade that has pin adjustments for vertical tilt also, I have one like that. Saves crawling in the dirt to adjust pins or turnbuckles. In hard material there is a tendency to jump over hard sections. I could never master a box blade and was always messing with the spoil accumulation. Casting spoils to the side is a lot easier.

Ron

 

[oosik]

Hello - I have a mile long gravel driveway that has just enough sand, clay and volcanic ash mixed in that it sets up like concrete after the spring wet season.

I started out with a Land Pride rear blade - RB3596. Fantastic for winter snow plowing. Would not even scratch the driveway after it dried out and hardened. The Land Pride weighed 565# and I have FitRite hydraulic top link.

Sooo - sold the Land Pride and bought a Rhino 950 - 96" & 1100 pounds. This new unit will cut my hardened driveway like a hot knife thru butter.

I find that a 96" rear blade is just about right for offset plowing of snow and cleaning ditches. My tractor rear tire width is 80" - outside to outside.

The new Rhino RB will pull material out of my ditches - pile it up in the center and help build a crown. Rear blades are not an easy implement to learn but will do surprising good things on a driveway.

If you are serious about a rear blade - - weight is your friend - my Rhino is 138 pounds per foot. I recommend a rear blade as heavy as your tractor and pocketbook can handle.

 

[dragoneggs]

Following along here and learning. I have a rear blade that isn't doing enough for me and my trail making/grading. Just bought a used box blade and decided to invest in a top and tilt system from Fitrite Hydraulics (a member on TBN). Waiting for its arrival. Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

My problem is I am cutting trails into a side slope an cannot change the slope relative to my wheels. Hoping the tilt will be the holy grail.

 

[oosik]

I cut into a bank on one of my outback trails. I only have hydraulic top link. I gave the lifting rods all the angle adjustment they could safely handle - it was a slow process but I was able to cut a flat and level tail across about 100 feet of angled side bank. The trail is about 6 to 7 feet wide.

Honestly - if the angle of the bank I was cutting across had been much greater - I would have found another place for the trail. I don't like cutting new trails with the bucket on the FEL and I don't have a crawler dozer.

 

[dragoneggs]

I cut into a bank on one of my outback trails. I only have hydraulic top link. I gave the lifting rods all the angle adjustment they could safely handle - it was a slow process but I was able to cut a flat and level tail across about 100 feet of angled side bank. The trail is about 6 to 7 feet wide.

Honestly - if the angle of the bank I was cutting across had been much greater - I would have found another place for the trail. I don't like cutting new trails with the bucket on the FEL and I don't have a crawler dozer.

That's my problem. I don't have much choice on slope and it is steep. A risky proposition as it is. I cut and fill some to the downside to make a wide enough path without creating to high of a bank on the high side.

My FEL with a piranha tooth bar is a great digger but I have to turn around and use my backhoe to help flatten it out to get my bucket to 'plane' properly. This is a pain because there is no turning around.

BTW... you are up early! I'm in Singapore headed for bed!

 

[rbtjr]

We have the 84" EA Xtreme Duty Six Way scrape blade (with the skid shoes and side plates, although we haven't used either the shoes or the side plates thus far). We haven't used it much but really like it. It's very well made, very flexible and IMHO far superior to the prior 6' scrape blade we had and sold.

 

[oosik]

Dragoneggs - if I had to do it again - I would probably try it a different way. Angle the rear blade and BACK into the slope. Drop the rear blade and pull forward. I know it would be a PITA that way - but your tractor would always be working on level ground - more or less. The ground that the rear blade just cut level would be the ground your tractor would be sitting on. At least this sounds good "on paper" - hard to say how it would work out there in the real dirt.

Up early - its hard to stay in bed when my ten month old Chocolate Lab thinks its time to play. If I don't get up - he is up on the bed doing high jumps. Thank God for afternoon naps. Well - sleep well.

 

[Timm250]

Look at the Industrias America blades. They are very heavy duty and reasonably priced.

Look around before buy because depending on the area the are crazy differences in the prices.

The have a Facebook page with pictures of their equipment.

I bought new model 165, 10' blade with 2 hyd cylinders for $2600.