Reaming out holes in thick steel?

[FatTire]

I just did this in some 1/2" A36 steel.
I up sized 13/16" holes to fit 7/8" pins.
You can buy a 3/4" "drum sander kit" from ACE hdwr.
ACE item # 2495083.

An even better option is to buy the little drum discs from McMaster Carr.
Their little drum discs are much higher quality than ACE, last twice as long, and are not very expensive.
I bought 10 from them for about $12, still have 6 left.

The McMaster Car package description is: "Spiral No-Lap Band"
I bought 80 grit.
If you go to their website, you will find virtually every size and type you could possibly want

That's something I didn't even think of. I would have guessed it would take forever to remove enough material, but apparently not.
I am using a variable speed AC powered drill but the angle grinder is a good option too. Thanks everyone for the suggestions-- the holes were cut originally with a plasma cutter, they're pretty good but it is obvious how they were done. This isn't critical, it is for a 3 point hitch mount, apparently the holes were for 3/4" pins but this is a heavy attachment -- I will feel better with 7/8 pins. I'll post again when I'm done with some photos.

 

[AWSubie]

No muss no fuss

 

[yomax4]

I've heated red hot and pounded a tapered pin in the hole and it did a nice job in a pinch. Have to do both sides of course.

 

[Sberry]

Another was is,,, use the drill you have to make a little start so a hole saw will stay in and will zip it out with a battery drill. Use a little water for cooling. It will go right thru it. About a minute.

 

[workinonit]

What is the implement and how heavy is it. I can't imagine it being too heavy for 3/4" pins.

 

[FatTire]

What is the implement and how heavy is it. I can't imagine it being too heavy for 3/4" pins.

Snowcutter, approx 1700 lbs

 

[dstig1]

I want to enlarge four 13/16" holes in 1/2" thick steel to accept 7/8" pins. This on a piece of equipment so I have to use a hand drill. I happened to have a 15/16" black oxide bit, not too surprisingly that doesn't work at all. In 10 minutes I only penetrated about 1/8" in one hole. So I need to decide between buying an $80 construction reamer (high speed steel, manufacturer says it is OK for stainless) or pick up a 29/32" cobalt drill for under $50. I'm guessing the reamer would work better even though it is softer. Is that correct?

If you can find a place to secure one close by, a mag drill (magnetic base) gives you a drill press with portability. They can be rented.

 

[Seven Gables]

Whenever I have to enlarge a hole in steel I use a Double Cut carbide die grinder burr. I think you would be surprised how quickly and smoothly they remove material in your application . I bought a set of them years ago and they are worth there weight in gold in some situations . Set of 10 in various shapes only about 50-60 bucks.

 

[Sberry]

A common hole saw and a battery drill get it started and will follow it thru in a minute or 2.

 

[stuckmotor]

If it was me, I'd use a right angle die grinder and an abrasive stone to enlarge the holes. Lots safer and easier on your wrists.

A few years ago my son enlarged holes in hardened steel with PINK stones on a right angle die grinder. The pink stones lasted much longer than the blue ones.

 

[Sberry]

I used to use every tool they ever invent and have rotary files and super air power but as I ripen a little lean to easier and simpler, cheaper and faster. This is a version of this but get a bi metal with more teeth, they make a couple versions but this size bit works fair and lets it be done battery drill and chances are can use the bit for another couple dozen holes. The uni bit would be great as a starter to seat the holesaw.

 

[Sberry]

In hidsite it might have been easier to get 2 bigger bolts fine thread each side to fill worn holes let this loader come loose but I drill 2 new 3/4 below the old to use typical bolts. Made 4 holes, 2 each side thru a couple 1/2 plates, took about 5 minutes each with a little water. Drilling horizontal is good, lets the shavings out.
New holes let me use common bolts I stock, all same size and can hammer them tight 1/2 impact. Hasnt come loose since.
Some of those dont even drill a pilot hole, once the bit starts its good. Fix oblong holes this way also. Weld the "egg" part up in a drawbar lets say and true it back up with a holesaw. Lets a guy to quite a precision tight hole.

 

[FatTire]

I like this TBN forum. Lots of good input, not much b.s., most of the time.

 

[Sberry]

I remember doing the red bucket. I was adding extra holes and changed the spacing to make the bucket fit a couple of things and I had removed the matching plate. I clamped it to that plate after I drilled the holes you see and made a sister, actually 2 of them and on one I recall somehow reading the tape off by 1/2. I put the plug back and welded it in and recut it again.
I did some experiment with it. A guy couldnt keep it up all day but got as fast as 35 seconds with the 1 1/8 thru that 3/8. My drill is heavy duty which helps a little. Something I try to bring to this is economy and maybe even something left over. There are a lot of options if a guy wants to throw a lot at it or work hard enough but a practical effecient method can take some time to figure out.
I had a guy call a while back and want a couple tapped holes in a 1 1/2 plate and he was super surprised when I showed up in my car with battery drill, 3 drills a tiny oil and a tap. I should have bought a mag and intended to a couple times and got around it. They they invent the real battery drill and I been trying to master it since.

 

[Sberry]

Both, the red pic and the top were 3 point assemblies come to think of it. The top was 7/8 and a pain to fuss with a bushing or find a smaller bolt than the rest of our stuff and one day I reached the end and punch the holes out to inch.
We dont use it a lot but hook a couple times a year and it just added a step we always forgot till we got there. Just made it standard.

 

[GeneV]

I used to use every tool they ever invent and have rotary files and super air power but as I ripen a little lean to easier and simpler, cheaper and faster. This is a version of this but get a bi metal with more teeth, they make a couple versions but this size bit works fair and lets it be done battery drill and chances are can use the bit for another couple dozen holes. The uni bit would be great as a starter to seat the holesaw.

How do you stay true center with the hole saw w/o use of a pilot hole? I remember somebody on youtube showing a neat trick for that, but don't recall exactly what he did.

 

[stuckmotor]

How do you stay true center with the hole saw w/o use of a pilot hole? I remember somebody on youtube showing a neat trick for that, but don't recall exactly what he did.

I think one YouTuber recommended putting a hole saw that just fit the existing hole inside the larger hole saw.

 

[5030]

I used to use every tool they ever invent and have rotary files and super air power but as I ripen a little lean to easier and simpler, cheaper and faster. This is a version of this but get a bi metal with more teeth, they make a couple versions but this size bit works fair and lets it be done battery drill and chances are can use the bit for another couple dozen holes. The uni bit would be great as a starter to seat the holesaw. View attachment 703767View attachment 703768View attachment 703769View attachment 703769

About the cleanest tractor I've seen on here in a long time.. Most are cruddy and loaded with filth. Myself, I don't like getting greasy from the grease hanging all over a unit if I don't have to...

I was always under the impression that bi-metal hole saws are only for light gauge materials (I have a set of Blu-Mol's myself), but for thick steel hole drilling I use my Mag drill and a Roto-broach bit. Not cheap but not a wrist breaker either.

 

[jmc]

I think one YouTuber recommended putting a hole saw that just fit the existing hole inside the larger hole saw.

That's interesting. Unless the smaller saw protruded beyond the larger saw to act as a pilot, I guess the path of least resistance for the combined saws would keep them on center?

 

[workinonit]

If they are the same depth and arbor size it would protrude.