Rake of some sort

[swick1]

I think I would like to build a rake for my front end loader. I want to use it for tearing out undergrowth like a ratchet rake and for smoothing dirt / pulling out small rocks to plant grass. I would also like to use it to gather sticks from what blows out of the trees around my property. What is the difference between uses for the following implements?

1. landscape rake / york rake
2. powered landscape rake / harley rake
3. ratchet rake
4. eliminator rake from loegering

I can see how a landscape rake would be good for turning rocks over and sorting them from dirt. I can also see how it would smooth a driveway, but I don't understand how it's better than a ratchet rake or eliminator rake. To me, the springy tines just look like an old design that's not as useful as new designs. What am I missing? I've never used one.

The harley rakes seem to do a great job, but I don't know how well they will windrow the rocks since they seem to only be mounted straight-on. I have remotes on the front of my loader, so I may be able to run one, but I don't know if the complexity is worth it. A tiller or pulverizer seems like it would do just as well without the flow requirements or extra complexity. I feel like this overlaps too much with a tiller to consider.

The ratchet rake seems great, but I don't want it to strap onto the bucket. I want mine to pin on / off or be its own attachment since I have a quick disconnect bucket. I may build this as an add-on to my grapple since it's mostly used for land clearing anyway.

The eliminator rake looks like a combination ratchet rake and pulverizer. This may be what i'm looking for rather than the traditional landscape rake. There's also a TR3 rake on youtube that looks very similar. Any suggestions?

I already have a rear scraper blade and a root grapple. I want this to mount on the loader because I have a backhoe that's always attached to the tractor and it's quicker to swap loader buckets than rear hitches.

 

[PILOON]

I simply back drag with my tooth bar.
Changing the angle makes the action more or less aggressive as needed.
Near vertical and I have a very effective root puller.

 

[jwmorris]

I built a pond rake using heavy pipe and 3/4" cold rolled steel. The old desk top was to keep the vines from hanging over the rake. Works well but wouldn't be strong enough for the "power down" you get with a FEL.

 

[swick1]

That's wild looking!

 

[lockhaven]

when I fist saw the picture I thought you may want to invest in something that would cut pipe until i saw a pond rake, very nice

 

[RDrancher]

Harley Rakes work great. Just fork up 5k+ and get busy. Just kidding. Strapping on a Ratchet Rake takes only a few seconds longer than undoing a quick attach. It works much better than a toothbar. That's why the guy designed and built it!

The teeth on the Eliminator Rake look pretty wimpy and if you have a box blade you already have scarifiers.

 

[swick1]

Harley Rakes work great. Just fork up 5k+ and get busy. Just kidding. Strapping on a Ratchet Rake takes only a few seconds longer than undoing a quick attach. It works much better than a toothbar. That's why the guy designed and built it!

The teeth on the Eliminator Rake look pretty wimpy and if you have a box blade you already have scarifiers.

Will Harley rakes tear out brush or does it all get wound up around the drum? I could build one for my 3 point hitch for $1000-$1300 easily.

I know they look like mulchers but I don't plan on shredding with it, just running over some bushes and grass.

Fel is possible too but I'd probably need a mid pro hydraulic pump to get the flowrate I need. Probably 15-17gpm at 2500psi given my 26hp engine.

 

[RDrancher]

They're really not designed for brush, but it depends on how tall the brush is. Power rakes process sod, grass and other organic material pretty good. It helps to scarify first if the ground is hard. Instead of windrowing material I typically just push it all to one end and then go back with the bucket to collect.

Can you brush hog first?

 

[swick1]

I don't think so. I could ratchet rake first though. I'm just brainstorming now though so any idea would be welcomed. My goal is to leave the hoe attached if possible so that reduces my desire to use a brush hog.

How about this question... what would make a ratchet rake better? I may just make it attach to my grapple unless I can make it a better standalone attachment. What are the shortcomings of a ratchet rake.

 

[Artisan]

JWMORRIS if you ever make a YOUTUBE video
of your invention working I would love to see it.
Looks like it would work well.

 

[RDrancher]

I don't think so. I could ratchet rake first though. I'm just brainstorming now though so any idea would be welcomed. My goal is to leave the hoe attached if possible so that reduces my desire to use a brush hog.

How about this question... what would make a ratchet rake better? I may just make it attach to my grapple unless I can make it a better standalone attachment. What are the shortcomings of a ratchet rake.

I would like sharper points on the forward facing row of teeth for back dragging. I think that the RR as a stand-alone quick attach attachment would be very useful. If it mimicked the position it takes on the bucket it would work quite well and vision would be much better. The framework would have to be pretty tough to handle the strain. I actually bent one of the large teeth a little bit on my 72" model, and that's the thick one.

 

[swick1]

Thanks rdrancher! I guess I should buy one and try it out but I just feel like with any addon it is a compromise. I want a dedicated rake. Here are some ideas... let me know what you think.

1. Two sets of fine teeth facing down. One near the front and one set where the back of the bucket would be. I think this would give a better raking action and reduce the number of passes by half

2. Forward facing teeth like a sickle bar mower or the pirhana bar to cut small bushes and saplings

3. Retractable or flip down short teeth for single row dragging.

4. A flip down hydraulic puller that lifts saplings and small trees straight up. Think post puller / engine hoist operated by front remotes. My fel isn't strong enough to do this so I need the puller.

 

[RDrancher]

I think you'll be fine with two sets of teeth...one down and one facing forward. The curl function allow the use of one set or both. The RR's teeth are different sizes and spaced so that they work well together. The way I use it for grass, etc. is the way the inventor intended. I drive forward with the bottom teeth in contact with the ground (the tips slightly angled rearward) and both sets going backward. If the material is too thick, or the ground too hard I back up using just the bottom set of teeth which are smaller and cut into the ground better.

As for #4, I can't wait to see it!

 

[swick1]

Thanks for the insight. Why are the front teeth so large?

 

[RDrancher]

I'm not sure why. I think you'd be fine if both sets of teeth were the same size as long as they were offset.

If you get the teeth set up correctly, the RR makes a heck of a t-post puller. There's an example on my photo thread.

 

[swick1]

Good idea! I'll take a look and try to post a drawing later this weekend