R1 vs R3 or 4 Traction

[Threepoint]

I run R4's on both my Kubota L4330 and on a very old Case backhoe 580CK. I would not use anything else because of the weight i often deal with and tending 'brush fires' etc. I do not use either when its raining or muddy because our soil would leave tracks for months, which it will even with turf tires on the zero turns. When you are going up a 45 degree incline with a full bucket or an 800lb mower and there is 17ft of water depth directly behind /under, you want all the bite you can get. at least I do.

by the way , which part of N. Texas are you in Texasmark ? i am in Waxahachie.

Case580ck, do you perhaps mean a 45 percent incline? A 45 degree incline would be a 100 percent slope. The vehicle you'd need for that would be a tram.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fileente-Slope_--Degres-Ratio_V1.jpg

 

[Diggin It]

After a year and close to a half, I can state with absolute certainty that R4s do NOT have decent traction on soft or wet ground. I have completely lost traction to the point of sliding all four wheels even in 4WD on slick muddy inclines. I have never tried them on snow, but I'm not sure I'll even try (if we get any snow next Winter) given what I've experienced so far.

 

[Jstpssng]

After a year and close to a half, I can state with absolute certainty that R4s do NOT have decent traction on soft or wet ground. I have completely lost traction to the point of sliding all four wheels even in 4WD on slick muddy inclines. I have never tried them on snow, but I'm not sure I'll even try (if we get any snow next Winter) given what I've experienced so far.

That's why they make chains. I have R-1s and wouldn't even attempt to go through the winter without steel wrapped around them.

 

[Texasmark]

Why would tire type have anything to do with low pressure causing rim slipping? Especially with R1's supposedly being able to run low without slipping. I would think the tire traction on a tractive surface for it's construction would be the factor in slippage.

Stiff sidewall and new, freshly, slick painted wheel....nothing to grip when torque is applied to the wheel....if the tread can hold onto the ground.

 

[Texasmark]

I run R4's on both my Kubota L4330 and on a very old Case backhoe 580CK. I would not use anything else because of the weight i often deal with and tending 'brush fires' etc. I do not use either when its raining or muddy because our soil would leave tracks for months, which it will even with turf tires on the zero turns. When you are going up a 45 degree incline with a full bucket or an 800lb mower and there is 17ft of water depth directly behind /under, you want all the bite you can get. at least I do.

by the way , which part of N. Texas are you in Texasmark ? i am in Waxahachie.

About 65 miles as the crow flies NE of Dallas.

 

[rScotty]

Why would tire type have anything to do with low pressure causing rim slipping? Especially with R1's supposedly being able to run low without slipping. I would think the tire traction on a tractive surface for it's construction would be the factor in slippage.

Stiff sidewall and new, freshly, slick painted wheel....nothing to grip when torque is applied to the wheel....if the tread can hold onto the ground.

It's pretty common in tire shops to slather the tire rim and edge of new tire with soapy water or other some other lube before assembling them. There are few rules in a tire shop...it could be anything, and have nothing at all to do with the type of tire tread.
rScotty

 

[Fallon]

Stiff sidewall and new, freshly, slick painted wheel....nothing to grip when torque is applied to the wheel....if the tread can hold onto the ground.

R1 rims are bigger in diameter than R4 or turfs. All things being equal more surface area on the bigger rim will give more traction. How much real world impact that makes vs the tire mounting lube they often use, I have no idea.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have never had a properly inflated R1 tractor tire slip on the rim, perhaps a turf tire with extremely low pressure might slip but then again, they dont get much traction to start with.

 

[Texasmark]

It's pretty common in tire shops to slather the tire rim and edge of new tire with soapy water or other some other lube before assembling them. There are few rules in a tire shop...it could be anything, and have nothing at all to do with the type of tire tread.
rScotty

I mount mine and try different things. When one has broken away from the rim I also come back (now that it's mounted) and wipe/wash off installation lube. I have even used "belt dressing" to assist in getting them to grip.

On rim diameter, my tractor came with R4s and the rear wheel diameter was 16.5" which is the skid steer size. To go to R3s I had to change to a 16" rim as they didn't make them in the 16.5" diameter. Then when going to R1s I was still able to use the 16" rim. So rim had nothing to do with it and in fact, the R3, being wider had a better opportunity to grip but due to the stiffer sidewall chose not to.

 

[tradosaurus]

If there ever was a question, I have proven it on my 2400. Bought it with R4s, replaced with R3s, and now have R1s on the rear and traction is night and day and I removed a pair (had 2 pair now only 1) of rear weights I used on the 1s and 3s. Other thing is that I can run 10 psi (for a softer ride) with the R1s and the 3s and 4s would slip on the rim at that air pressure.

My first tractor I bought last year the salesman tried to talk me out of R1's as most if not all the tractors on his lot came with R4's.

Glad I listened to an old farmer who told me to get R1's.