Push over trees with a small compact?

[Suburban Plowboy]

I have a Kubota L3710 (38 HP gross), and I have never been able to push anything alive over with it, except for tiny things. Rotten trees are different.

I would never push anything that was over maybe 10 feet tall. I don't want chunks of tree flying back at me over the loader. When you push trees, they may act like they're on springs, so if one can find a way, it will swing back toward you. That's very bad.

As for barber chairing, bore cutting is a good tool, and so is putting a ratchet strap around a tree.

I use a subsoiler with a hook on it to go around stumps and yank the roots so the stumps will come out, and it will work on trees up to maybe a foot in diameter. Some put up an exceptional fight, though.

 

[rumwrks]

I mostly use lines as an "and also" safety if I'm near buildings or other stuff I REALLY don't want to hit and the tree is already a leaner. 99% is done with wedges even in that case. There's a lot of advantages to slow and easy when you're falling, moreso when you're not 100% sure.. Things can still happen really really fast, but wedges give you some room to think and adjust at least.

I have pushed over some small doug firs with the heavy grapple.. Up to maybe 5" or so and maybe 15'-16'' high max. In the boggy spots they don't develop much for roots and are poorly anchored so a gentle push around half way up and then a sustained push at around 5-6' up until they go over. Pick up the root ball and drop it a few times to knock the dirt off.. Works really well. This isn't ramming them though, this is in low and kind of easing into the tree to see how it gives... No way I'd do it with anything anywhere near 60'!! NOPE! that's a good way to get a tree top in your lap IMHO.

I've also thrown a line around a tree or two and used the winch to yank trees out that were hung up. But again that involves a bit of sitting and looking where they want to go and what the best vector to pull them on is.

 

[mikester]

I think you won't have much luck pushing an 8-10" tree over with a SCUT. A 4-5" and smaller shallow root tree in wet ground yes you probably could.

I've pushed over 8-10" norway maples with my CUT and grapple on wet ground. The trick is to push from higher up and let gravity help the top heavy canopy tip over. Once the roots have lifted on one side you can get the tree to topple over completely. Something like an oak with deep roots and dry ground forget it.

Generally speaking greater machine mass lets you push over greater trees. 35+ ton excavators tend to do well against trees.

I wouldn't attempt this kind of work without a FOPS. Avoid the widowmaker trees...

 

[Rockbadchild]

I think you won't have much luck pushing an 8-10" tree over with a SCUT. A 4-5" and smaller shallow root tree in wet ground yes you probably could.

I've pushed over 8-10" norway maples with my CUT and grapple on wet ground. The trick is to push from higher up and let gravity help the top heavy canopy tip over. Once the roots have lifted on one side you can get the tree to topple over completely. Something like an oak with deep roots and dry ground forget it.

Generally speaking greater machine mass lets you push over greater trees. 35+ ton excavators tend to do well against trees.

I wouldn't attempt this kind of work without a FOPS. Avoid the widowmaker trees...

FYI op's is talking about pushing a tree in the opposite lean direction while cutting it, not uprooting it.

 

[5030]

Even if they were, often the mains issue is while pushing on a tree with a machine the tree snap in half, then fall on itself or the cut hinge let go, the bottom kick out and the tree fall on the equipment.

Why it's a good idea to have the ROPS in the working position instead of the usual folded position that so many owners on here like to do. I see pictures (on here) of so many tractors with folded ROPS. Why fold it, just remove it entirely....

I will confess I removed the ROPS entirely from my Kubota diesel front mount mower because it gets in the way when mowing under trees. Took it off entirely and it's parked against the shop, in the grass. Other issue is, if it's folded, it interferes with opening the engine hood to check fluid levels so I removed it entirely.

Gal down the road bought a new Cub ZTR and runs around with the ROPS folded and no seat belt on. Hopefully, she don't wind up in a compromising situation.

 

[5030]

I've in the past, popped some fiarly large trees with one of my M9's but they have the weight and tractive effort to do it. What I did was I cut them off about 8 feet above ground level attached a stout chain at the top where I cut it off and hooked that to the drawbar and pulled them out. I say did because I always wound up with a hole where the root ball was and then had to dispose of the root ball anyway and then have to backfill the resulting hole. I did but no more. Now I grind the stumps a couple inches below grade, rake the chips back over the non existetent stump and in a short time, the chips rot and nothing is left to fiddle with ar all.

Why I purchased the stump grinder in the first place. Much easier on me and the equipment.

 

[Runner]

Learn how to chainsaw fall and use wedges to control the path.

And, for Heaven's sake, don't be stupid and cut the corner of your holding wood off like I did...

 

[Runner]

Now I grind the stumps a couple inches below grade, rake the chips back over the non existetent stump and in a short time, the chips rot and nothing is left to fiddle with ar all.

Same here, unless I want to plant another tree in the same spot, then I have to bite the bullet and dig it out with the backhoe.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Why it's a good idea to have the ROPS in the working position instead of the usual folded position that so many owners on here like to do. I see pictures (on here) of so many tractors with folded ROPS. Why fold it, just remove it entirely....

I will confess I removed the ROPS entirely from my Kubota diesel front mount mower because it gets in the way when mowing under trees. Took it off entirely and it's parked against the shop, in the grass. Other issue is, if it's folded, it interferes with opening the engine hood to check fluid levels so I removed it entirely.

Gal down the road bought a new Cub ZTR and runs around with the ROPS folded and no seat belt on. Hopefully, she don't wind up in a compromising situation.

I am questioning this reasoning ... '' Why fold it, just remove it entirely...'' I mean at least if it's there you have the options

I keep mine up but I need to lower it to bring it inside the barn or garage (I almost took the whole building down once ). Now put it up right after because I stood up under it, banging my head on it and compressed my spine while attaching an attachment on the 3 points it hurt for a while.

 

[5030]

I don't have that issue as the door on my equipmenmt barn is 10 feet wide and 14 feet high. Besides, mine are way too big to keep in any garage in the first place. No little units here.

 

[Runner]

"Took it off entirely and it's parked against the shop, in the grass."

That's one problem with removing it, you now have something else to store... Also, IMHO tractors with the top half of ROPS removed just look kind of dorky.

Now put it up right after because I stood up under it, banging my head on it and compressed my spine while attaching an attachment on the 3 points it hurt for a while.

That's why I keep mine folded, but sitting on top of the pin - at least when I hit my head on it, it has a little bit of movement. Still hurts....

 

[5030]

Same here, unless I want to plant another tree in the same spot, then I have to bite the bullet and dig it out with the backhoe.
View attachment 3518796

That puts me in mind of KJP's hair....lol

 

[Runner]

That puts me in mind of KJP's hair....lol

Please, DON'T remind me!

 

[Drstrangeglove]

I have pushed over a few. You don't just drive up to it and push. You have to cut the roots. Unless it is a shallow root tree like a holly. I have a set of jaws I can push into the ground and welded a wedge to hook the roots and break them as i back out. My 46 horse can do it, but my 100hp M5 is much better. Now I use my kx080 to dig them up. Even faster.

 

[5030]

Again, I prefer to grind them below grade and forget about them. Besides I can make a huge pile of chips when grinding large stumps.

 

[Runner]

I have pushed over a few. You don't just drive up to it and push. You have to cut the roots. Unless it is a shallow root tree like a holly. I have a set of jaws I can push into the ground and welded a wedge to hook the roots and break them as i back out. My 46 horse can do it, but my 100hp M5 is much better. Now I use my kx080 to dig them up. Even faster.

This reminds me, I have been kicking around the idea of building a root cutter like this

except that it would be mounted on a plate that would be quick attach/detached from the bottom of the backhoe bucket. Obviously, if it was just bolted to the bottom of the bucket, you would tear up the bucket, but I was thinking of welding it to a plate that would have a lip that curls over the front of the bucket between the teeth and bolts through the two holes in the bottom to hold it in place. A "slip-on" type of arrangement.

Just don't know if the backhoe on a 2520 has the power to operate it. I have the piece of metal picked out and sitting on my welding bench. Just can't decide whether to pull the trigger and do it. (hate to waste a perfectly good piece of 3/8" scrap steel plate).

I know Bexpanded makes quick detach bucket system to use with this, but they are expensive and they don't make one for my backhoe.

 

[Drstrangeglove]

This reminds me, I have been kicking around the idea of building a root cutter like thisView attachment 3518823
except that it would be mounted on a plate that would be quick attach/detached from the bottom of the backhoe bucket. Obviously, if it was just bolted to the bottom of the bucket, you would tear up the bucket, but I was thinking of welding it to a plate that would have a lip that curls over the front of the bucket between the teeth and bolts through the two holes in the bottom to hold it in place. A "slip-on" type of arrangement.

Just don't know if the backhoe on a 2520 has the power to operate it. I have the piece of metal picked out and sitting on my welding bench. Just can't decide whether to pull the trigger and do it. (hate to waste a perfectly good piece of 3/8" scrap steel plate).

I know Bexpanded makes quick detach bucket system to use with this, but they are expensive and they don't make one for my backhoe.

My kx has a ripper. Definitely makes less mess when root cutting.

 

[WinterDeere]

Why it's a good idea to have the ROPS in the working position instead of the usual folded position that so many owners on here like to do. I see pictures (on here) of so many tractors with folded ROPS. Why fold it, just remove it entirely....

I usually keep my ROPS folded down, for good reason, we have too many overhead obstacles. In fact, the only three times I can remember being hurt on a tractor or mower, all can be blamed on having the ROPS up, and catching a branch. One time it knocked me flat off the mower, as the branch got pulled down and swept my skinny a$$ right off the seat, as I was zooming past a large bush at 11 mph. Another time, I just got a bloodied ear, and a third time I pulled a wheelie on the mower when the ROPS caught the branch of a large cherry tree, and almost went over backwards. Running "ROPS up" is just dangerous around here.

Not to mention, when I do put it up, there's about a 50/50 chance I'll forget to put it back down at the end of the day, and slam the damn thing into the lintel over my garage door when backing it into the shed at night. Doh!

So why don't I just remove them? On the mower, I probably should... but then I'd have to store it. On the tractor, I still want it there for those rare and exceptional occasions when I'm moving something right at max lift capacity, and know I'll be operating not under tree cover or other obstacles. That might only be 2x or 3x per year, but I like having it there for those occasions.

No little units here.

Okay, big guy... let's get out the measuring stick.

 

[Runner]

I usually keep my ROPS folded down, for good reason, we have too many overhead obstacles. In fact, the only three times I can remember being hurt on a tractor or mower, all can be blamed on having the ROPS up, and catching a branch. One time it knocked me flat off the mower, as the branch got pulled down and swept my skinny a$$ right off the seat, as I was zooming past a large bush at 11 mph. Another time, I just got a bloodied ear, and a third time I pulled a wheelie on the mower when the ROPS caught the branch of a large cherry tree, and almost went over backwards. Running "ROPS up" is just dangerous around here.

Not to mention, when I do put it up, there's about a 50/50 chance I'll forget to put it back down at the end of the day, and slam the damn thing into the lintel over my garage door when backing it into the shed at night. Doh!

So why don't I just remove them? On the mower, I probably should... but then I'd have to store it. On the tractor, I still want it there for those rare and exceptional occasions when I'm moving something right at max lift capacity, and know I'll be operating not under tree cover or other obstacles. That might only be 2x or 3x per year, but I like having it there for those occasions.


Okay, big guy... let's get out the measuring stick.

Two guys peeing off the bridge, one says that water is cold, the other says it's deep too...

 

[WinterDeere]

Two guys peeing off the bridge, one says that water is cold, the other says it's deep too...

I'm standing at the urinal in the men's room at work one day in my mid-20's, being one of the fresh young engineers is a big tech company, when the aging CTO comes into the room and is forced to use the urinal installed for kids and little people.

I made some comment about, "sorry for leaving you with that one" as I'm zipping up, and he says "it's okay, I need the clearance, so I don't end up in the water."

It'd be funnier if you knew the guy, very distinguished and very famous scientist, at least among certain circles.