Purging milky oil from system

[Gary Fowler]

I think what the OP is suggesting will work fine. He is not saying he will use the recycled oil on permanent basis, only to flush the system with which I think is a good idea. Why keep putting even cheap oil thru, running it 5 minutes and getting it contaminated. Boil out the water, put it back in the tractor, cycle it several times, at operating temps check for water, drain, reboil if needed repeat till oil stays clear. Then put in new oil. If the temps are below freezing, I suspect that the reason for the continued contamination is that he has a low spot in the holding reservoir that has a chunk of ice from water oil separation. WHen he runs it, it melts some of the ice but not all and it will continue milking up till all the ice is melted. If he can put the tractor in a heated building overnight, while he is boiling out the water from his contaminated oil then flush it with that oil, he may get most of the water in one flush.
He might be well to put the hot oil off the cooker straight back into the tractor and run it immediately. That is the way we flush turbine oil reservoirs and oil lines prior to startup, with 250F hot oil

 

[Soundguy]

why not add in a chemical to grab the water and quit boiling the oil so many times...

soundguy

 

[temsan]

I have the same problem.
I'll try. Thanks.

 

[J_J]

This is an example of oil that was done commercially.

If you can cook 4 gal of something similar to first jar of fluid, I would like to see the result. If it was just that easy to do, more people would do it.

That thick stuff you see on the tractor filter screens is probably a byproduct of water and other contamination.

 

[Skyco]

I think what the OP is suggesting will work fine. He is not saying he will use the recycled oil on permanent basis, only to flush the system with which I think is a good idea. Why keep putting even cheap oil thru, running it 5 minutes and getting it contaminated. Boil out the water, put it back in the tractor, cycle it several times, at operating temps check for water, drain, reboil if needed repeat till oil stays clear. Then put in new oil. If the temps are below freezing, I suspect that the reason for the continued contamination is that he has a low spot in the holding reservoir that has a chunk of ice from water oil separation. WHen he runs it, it melts some of the ice but not all and it will continue milking up till all the ice is melted. If he can put the tractor in a heated building overnight, while he is boiling out the water from his contaminated oil then flush it with that oil, he may get most of the water in one flush.
He might be well to put the hot oil off the cooker straight back into the tractor and run it immediately. That is the way we flush turbine oil reservoirs and oil lines prior to startup, with 250F hot oil

You are the only one that gets it! :thumbsup:

To all-
I never said one had to use a cooking pot but even if you did it is cheaper than a pail of oil-here is one for $20 that will more than hold the OPs 4 gallons.[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Imusa-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Quart/dp/B0018EAMKA/ref=sr_1_15?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1323821147&sr=1-15"]http://www.amazon.com/Imusa-Stainless-Steel-Stock-Quart/dp/B0018EAMKA/ref=sr_1_15?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1323821147&sr=1-15[/ame]

 

[J_J]

He is the only one that gets it. Sure. Common sense dictates otherwise.

Free water might separate out, but emulsified fluid is a little different. If it would settle out, this post would not exist.

Even if it did settle out, some damage has already has been done, so it is best to replace the fluid. It is his tractor, and he can do what he can do, and if he succeeds, I hope he will let us know the results.

If that technique is so good, then someone would be selling cooking kettles just for all the tractors owners that have the water in-gestation problem.

Excerpts

Detergent additives

DIN 51524; HLPD fluids are a class of hydraulic fluids which contain detersive and dispersive additives. The use of these fluids is approved by most major hydraulic component manufacturers and can be advantageous in many applications, including mobile, to prevent build-up of sludge and varnish deposits, which can lead to valve stiction and other reliability problems. The main caution with these fluids is that they have excellent water emulsifying ability, which means that if present, water is not separated out of the fluid. Emulsified water reduces lubricity and filterability, can cause corrosion and cavitation and reduces the life of the oil.

 

[Skyco]

He is the only that gets it. Sure. Common sense dictates otherwise.

Free water might separate out, but emulsified fluid is a little different. If it would settle out, this post would not exist.

Even if it did settle out, some damage has already has been done, so it is best to replace the fluid. It is his tractor, and he can do what he can do, and if he succeeds, I hope he will let us know the results.

If that technique is so good, then someone would be selling cooking kettles just for all the tractors owners that have the water in-gestation problem.

Excerpts

You need to do a little research it is an accepted lubricant industry practice to heat oil to remove moisture, especially emulsified water.
I could provide links but you'd probably not read them......

 

[rayclar]

hmmmmmm this is getting interesting??????

 

[Soundguy]

He is the only that gets it. Sure. Common sense dictates otherwise.

.

JJ.. you are wasteing your time. in another thread Skyco already implied.. well no.. outright said I'm ignorant and careless because I make typos as i type on a small, old mobile device with no 'error correction'.

the fact that there are no real consumer grade kits widely sold for boiling oil tells you about the practice of boiling water out of oil. as far as the end user is concerned. not to mention the fire hazard it would create...

IMHO.. once oil is that wet, and even if you did seperate it out.. what are you left with.. an add pack that has possible been compromised maybee. some new chemical combinations? frankly all my tractors.. even old ones are worth more than a pail of oil when it comes to keeping their metal inards healthy.

Something done at a refinery as an industry 'standard' is very different than what a homeowner may / should do.

I'd like to see a UOA on a boiled down milkshake...

soundguy

 

[Skyco]

JJ.. you are wasteing your time. in another thread Skyco already implied.. well no.. outright said I'm ignorant and careless because I make typos as i type on a small, old mobile device with no 'error correction'.

Outright said?
Wow! If I was specifically taking about you (I did NOT name anyone) I could now add censored as that is NOT what I said.


Who needs a kit to heat oil? All one needs is a pot and heat.
If someone doesn't agree with heating oil to remove moisture, fine.
I never said to keep using the oil after the moisture was removed either...use it as a flushing agent THEN replace the oil.

BTW a car does this method of moisture removal every time it is driven:confused2:

 

[DJNebraska]

He might be well to put the hot oil off the cooker straight back into the tractor and run it immediately. That is the way we flush turbine oil reservoirs and oil lines prior to startup, with 250F hot oil

Be careful NOT to use oil at 250F. Most Buna-N seals and hydraulic hoses are usually rated to 212F. You may damage components. Wait until it cools down IF you are trying this in the first place.

 

[Soundguy]

or burn yourself terribly!!

 

[Dakota_male]

Has anyone tried moving their transmission case vent to a drier location?
My vent is exposed to rain and when washing down water. It only sat outside this fall a few weeks and sucked in some moisture, now I never really haven't ran it long enough to flash off the moisture so it continue to build up.
I am thinking of moving the vent to inside the cab with a charcoal filter or install a desiccant breather. I do plan on changing the oil but if I don't change my operating habits it will happen again.
The amount of moisture in the oil is not high, but I purchased the Amsoil fluid a while ago and want to change it as I did this to my BX 25 and the transmission worked so much smoother!

 

[SpringHollow]

I see no problem using the oil as flushing oil.

I did get a tank cover gasket failure - breather cap vent was clogged and the pressure blew out the gasket material. So I did get water in 28 gallons of new oil. I drained it, flushed and then filled with new. I still have the wet oil - just not sure what i will use it for. Probably, i will burn it.

Ken

 

[J_J]

Did you find the water in the fluid before you ran the machine, or is the fluid you have already emulsified. Free water will separate out and be on the bottom of the bucket. Emulsified fluid will stay that way for a long long time. It just doesn't separate easily.

Why would you want to put contaminated fluid back into a hyd system?

Did you not build yourself a hyd filter cart, and if so, did any of the filtering process change anything.

 

[SpringHollow]

Hi JJ,

I discovered the emulsion when doing maintenance.

I am not sure what you are talking about. I did not put the contaminated oil back into my tractor.

This happened prior to my filter cart and prior to adding the desiccant breather cap.

Ken

 

[jmanatee2]

Here is a turnkey centrifuge for home use... The claim it can process up to 5 gal per hour.

Simple Centrifuge ...putting a centrifuge in every garage!

It is $1500

 

[Sutol]

My little Ford has this problem and I have found this discussion very interesting.
Anyone know how much water is in the oil approx to make it milky?

The reason I ask is because I usually throw any old oil in my cars diesel tank and mix it with the diesel, it runs fine on a mix of old sump oil, diesel, kerosene and anything liquid that will burn.
With diesel fuel at seven british pounds a gallon I cant afford to waste anything that will burn in the Peugeot.

I was using cooking oil mixed 50/50 but the supermarkets decided to hike the price up and up and now it costs more than diesel here because people were putting it straight in the tank on the supermarket carparks:laughing:

So...how much water in it then

 

[Labrador Coaster]

There was roughly 10 gals of clear oil in my reservoir of my hydraulic winch.

After hooking up my just built log splitter, The oil changed to something that looks like egg nogg. The water had to be in the cylinder before installation ( 4'' dia. 40 '' long when closed).
I have since drained and replaced the oil three times, used maybe 15 gals to do this.

At present the oil is still white, not egg nogg... but definitely not clear.

So my friends thats a long winded attempt to say that I don't think it takes much to make a mess.

I attached a pic. not great, but you can see the milky oil jar in the bottom of the image

 

[SpringHollow]

Wow, that is much worse than mine was. Mine was more like butterscotch in color. But then motor oil is pretty dark to begin with.

Ken