Pulling tres from front or back

[AlbertC]

When I am felling large trees, I tie a rope to the tree and the other end to the front axle of my new holland 3930. Then put the tractor in reverse and back up to pull the tree over. I attach the rope to the front axle because I have better visibility from the front than the rear.

Is it OK to put the tractor in reverse to pull or should I attach to drawbar and pull from rear. Another reason I attach to front axle is because it is a larger circumference to wrap the rope around whereas if I tie to the drawbar all I can do is wrap abound the ball that is attached to the drawbar.

Just want to make sure that I'm not harming my tractor by putting tension on it by having it pull in reverse.

Thanks

 

[Travelover]

I guess I'd worry more about the rope snapping and taking my head off or the tree falling on me, but maybe I'm overly cautious.

 

[newbury]

When I am felling large trees

What's a "large tree" a 20' maple? 100' tall red oak? 350' tall redwood?

Is the tree in the woods or out standing alone?

Trees in woods often interact with other trees.

I tie a rope to the tree and the other end to the front axle of my new holland 3930. Then put the tractor in reverse and back up to pull the tree over. I attach the rope to the front axle because I have better visibility from the front than the rear.

Is it OK to put the tractor in reverse to pull or should I attach to drawbar and pull from rear. Another reason I attach to front axle is because it is a larger circumference to wrap the rope around whereas if I tie to the drawbar all I can do is wrap abound the ball that is attached to the drawbar.

I'd suggest tying to something that either wouldn't bend or if bent wouldn't cause much damage. I'd hook stuff up front to the frame. But even better I'd hook it to the drawbar and drive forward.

 

[arrow]

When I am felling large trees, I tie a rope to the tree and the other end to the front axle of my new holland 3930. Then put the tractor in reverse and back up to pull the tree over. I attach the rope to the front axle because I have better visibility from the front than the rear.

Is it OK to put the tractor in reverse to pull or should I attach to drawbar and pull from rear. Another reason I attach to front axle is because it is a larger circumference to wrap the rope around whereas if I tie to the drawbar all I can do is wrap abound the ball that is attached to the drawbar.

Just want to make sure that I'm not harming my tractor by putting tension on it by having it pull in reverse.

Thanks

I'm not sure I know what you are trying to accomplish to wit; a tree leaning in the opposite direction of natural fall line? A tree in the woods that you are trying to steer down? It seems to me that you would be safer pulling it from the draw bar. Better yet, direct it with a wedge fall and eliminate the tractor for this type of work. But you didn't ask that. I think because getting a tree over does not take much force at all, the tractor is fine. As the above poster mentioned, the biggest danger here is the rope weakening and finally snapping right back at ya. Using the draw bar at least gives you the opportunity of protecting yourself from rope snap by caging in the rops. Hopefully you are not doing this kind of thing often.

 

[CobyRupert]

Another reason I attach to front axle is because it is a larger circumference to wrap the rope around whereas if I tie to the drawbar all I can do is wrap abound the ball that is attached to the drawbar.
Thanks

Too bad they don't make something you could attach to your drawbar that you could attach a rope to.

-Kidding. But as long as either the tree is weaker than your axle, or the axle is stronger than the pulling force of your tractor you should be good. But I wouldn't bet on it, especially if you're trying to pull the whole tree over, roots and all.

 

[roger4400]

Hi Albert.
You say you use a rope......what kind...if it is nylon or any rope that will get length while you pull, if it brake it will get back to you at a lot of speed. One of my friend lost an eye, and half of his face, his jaw was broken and the doctors fixed his face using a photo, this is what could happen if the rope that stretches brake and slash you. Maybe you could use a chain and when you pull put a heavy blanket or an old coat on the chain in the middle if it brake it will not come back to you.
I would highly suggest you use a logging winch, it works very well, like many over here I use one, you don't move the tractor, the log is coming to you. BE SAFE. Roger

 

[motownbrowne]

Tractors are designed to pull most effectively going forward.

That said, I wouldn't do what I think you are talking about. I have a three point skidding winch, which I love and is designed to be used for this type of project. Still, though, I'd run a snatch block out in the direction I want it to fall and pull from a different direction, out of the path of the tree. Also, wedges as mentioned above should be the preferred method for directing a fall.

Stay safe.

 

[john_bud]

Around here a big tree is likely an oak that's 40-50" at the base and has a fall weight over 20,000 pounds. It goes the wrong way the rope snaps and hurts you, part of the tractor gets ripped off, part of the tree breaks and is sling shot at you or if the rope is real strong the tractor is slung by the tree.

Much safer to use good directional falling technique, plastic wegdes and an 8pound sledge.

 

[/pine]

Around here a big tree is likely an oak that's 40-50" at the base and has a fall weight over 20,000 pounds. It goes the wrong way the rope snaps and hurts you, part of the tractor gets ripped off, part of the tree breaks and is sling shot at you or if the rope is real strong the tractor is slung by the tree.

Much safer to use good directional falling technique, plastic wegdes and an 8pound sledge.

Ditto...
...but in the same respect if by "big trees" the OP means as big as his tractor is capable of actually pulling over (root ball and all etc.) it is probably OK...

I fastened a clevis/shackle to the front frame on my machine for "grubbing" alder saplings etc...for the same reason...so the operator can easily see...the strap on the "grubber" is under the loader bucket...

 

[k0ua]

I sure wouldn't pull from my front axle.. There is not much that holds it to the rest of the tractor..Just one bolt. Pull from the drawbar with a clevis on it is much safer. Install a mirror if you are uncomfortable in twisting around in the seat.

 

[AlbertC]

What I am trying to do is to direct the fall. I hook the rope to the tree and tractor and put tension on the line. I then cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction that I want it to fall and then I make the relief cut so that the tree will fall over towards the tractor. Sometimes the tree will not fall and then I go get on the tractor and put it in reverse to apply enough force so that the tree will go ahead and fall.

I am talking about sweet gum trees probably 12-15 inches in diameter and 30 to 50 feet tall. He rope I am using is a arborist bull rope that is rate for 8000 lbs. I feel like I am safer being In
The tractor than I am standing under a tree that for whatever reason doesn't want to fall over. Sometimes you cut the notch and the felling cut and the tree just stands there. I don't want to cut through the hinge while trying to get the tree to fall. am I doing this wrong?.

Thanks

 

[deerseeker001]

I always hookup chain to draw bar that is the best in my book.

 

[zionview]

Hook low, hook long. I'd rather hook to the drawbar because it's lower.

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

I won't comment on whether what you are dng is right or wrong. What I do is run the line down to the base of a tree that is in the direction you want it to fall. Then run it through a snatch block to the drawbar, and drive in the opposite direction away from the falling tree.

 

[arrow]

What I am trying to do is to direct the fall. I hook the rope to the tree and tractor and put tension on the line. I then cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction that I want it to fall and then I make the relief cut so that the tree will fall over towards the tractor. Sometimes the tree will not fall and then I go get on the tractor and put it in reverse to apply enough force so that the tree will go ahead and fall.

I am talking about sweet gum trees probably 12-15 inches in diameter and 30 to 50 feet tall. He rope I am using is a arborist bull rope that is rate for 8000 lbs. I feel like I am safer being In
The tractor than I am standing under a tree that for whatever reason doesn't want to fall over. Sometimes you cut the notch and the felling cut and the tree just stands there. I don't want to cut through the hinge while trying to get the tree to fall. am I doing this wrong?.

Thanks

Albert what you need to do is fell a tree like this with wedges. Make your cuts as usual but as you are sawing the back cut, begin to pound in your plastic wedges once you've gone deep enough to clear a wedge insert and not get it chewed up too badly. I guarantee the tree will succumb to the wedges. There is a technique of inserting two wedges one atop the other to assure enough leverage. You are not necessarily safe when a tree falls no matter where you are but usually a fox runs directly opposite from danger.

 

[whis]

You wont hurt your tractor putting tension on rope, spinning back tires while pulling maybe

 

[square1]

From the sounds of it, you're really not doing much more than getting a nearly ready to fall tree headed toward the ground. I doubt you're doing any damage to the tractor.

 

[motownbrowne]

Albert what you need to do is fell a tree like this with wedges. Make your cuts as usual but as you are sawing the back cut, begin to pound in your plastic wedges once you've gone deep enough to clear a wedge insert and not get it chewed up too badly. I guarantee the tree will succumb to the wedges. There is a technique of inserting two wedges one atop the other to assure enough leverage. You are not necessarily safe when a tree falls no matter where you are but usually a fox runs directly opposite from danger.

I'll add that you should check out felling by boring through the tree after establishing the face. By doing this you can make a perfect hinge of the ideal width before cutting out through the back of the tree to fell it. You can also leave a "trigger" at the back to double check the area nearby and your escape route. I learned this method from FISTA, a logging safety educator in WI. You should look it up, once I learned to do that and properly use wedges, I became much more confident felling trees.

I agree about not pulling by your axle, though. If you need to pull, the frame is better.

 

[AlbertC]

I won't comment on whether what you are dng is right or wrong. What I do is run the line down to the base of a tree that is in the direction you want it to fall. Then run it through a snatch block to the drawbar, and drive in the opposite direction away from the falling tree.

?? I am not familiar with what a snatch block is but I googled so that I could see a picture. When you use a snatch block don't you have to have a second tree somewhere to attach the snap block to? What if there isn't another tree around? How do you attach the snap block to the other tree.

 

[motownbrowne]

?? I am not familiar with what a snatch block is but I googled so that I could see a picture. When you use a snatch block don't you have to have a second tree somewhere to attach the snap block to? What if there isn't another tree around? How do you attach the snap block to the other tree.

Another tree, or something solid to anchor it to.

Most people use a "tree-saver" strap, or a sling wrapped around a tree. With any work of this nature, strictly observing working load limits for every single component of the rigging is of the utmost importance.