Pulling tres from front or back

[AlbertC]

What I am trying to do is to direct the fall. I hook the rope to the tree and tractor and put tension on the line. I then cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction that I want it to fall and then I make the relief cut so that the tree will fall over towards the tractor. Sometimes the tree will not fall and then I go get on the tractor and put it in reverse to apply enough force so that the tree will go ahead and fall.

I am talking about sweet gum trees probably 12-15 inches in diameter and 30 to 50 feet tall. He rope I am using is a arborist bull rope that is rate for 8000 lbs. I feel like I am safer being In
The tractor than I am standing under a tree that for whatever reason doesn't want to fall over. Sometimes you cut the notch and the felling cut and the tree just stands there. I don't want to cut through the hinge while trying to get the tree to fall. am I doing this wrong?.

Thanks

 

[deerseeker001]

I always hookup chain to draw bar that is the best in my book.

 

[zionview]

Hook low, hook long. I'd rather hook to the drawbar because it's lower.

 

[Sheldon Hamblin]

I won't comment on whether what you are dng is right or wrong. What I do is run the line down to the base of a tree that is in the direction you want it to fall. Then run it through a snatch block to the drawbar, and drive in the opposite direction away from the falling tree.

 

[arrow]

What I am trying to do is to direct the fall. I hook the rope to the tree and tractor and put tension on the line. I then cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction that I want it to fall and then I make the relief cut so that the tree will fall over towards the tractor. Sometimes the tree will not fall and then I go get on the tractor and put it in reverse to apply enough force so that the tree will go ahead and fall.

I am talking about sweet gum trees probably 12-15 inches in diameter and 30 to 50 feet tall. He rope I am using is a arborist bull rope that is rate for 8000 lbs. I feel like I am safer being In
The tractor than I am standing under a tree that for whatever reason doesn't want to fall over. Sometimes you cut the notch and the felling cut and the tree just stands there. I don't want to cut through the hinge while trying to get the tree to fall. am I doing this wrong?.

Thanks

Albert what you need to do is fell a tree like this with wedges. Make your cuts as usual but as you are sawing the back cut, begin to pound in your plastic wedges once you've gone deep enough to clear a wedge insert and not get it chewed up too badly. I guarantee the tree will succumb to the wedges. There is a technique of inserting two wedges one atop the other to assure enough leverage. You are not necessarily safe when a tree falls no matter where you are but usually a fox runs directly opposite from danger.

 

[whis]

You wont hurt your tractor putting tension on rope, spinning back tires while pulling maybe

 

[square1]

From the sounds of it, you're really not doing much more than getting a nearly ready to fall tree headed toward the ground. I doubt you're doing any damage to the tractor.

 

[motownbrowne]

Albert what you need to do is fell a tree like this with wedges. Make your cuts as usual but as you are sawing the back cut, begin to pound in your plastic wedges once you've gone deep enough to clear a wedge insert and not get it chewed up too badly. I guarantee the tree will succumb to the wedges. There is a technique of inserting two wedges one atop the other to assure enough leverage. You are not necessarily safe when a tree falls no matter where you are but usually a fox runs directly opposite from danger.

I'll add that you should check out felling by boring through the tree after establishing the face. By doing this you can make a perfect hinge of the ideal width before cutting out through the back of the tree to fell it. You can also leave a "trigger" at the back to double check the area nearby and your escape route. I learned this method from FISTA, a logging safety educator in WI. You should look it up, once I learned to do that and properly use wedges, I became much more confident felling trees.

I agree about not pulling by your axle, though. If you need to pull, the frame is better.

 

[AlbertC]

I won't comment on whether what you are dng is right or wrong. What I do is run the line down to the base of a tree that is in the direction you want it to fall. Then run it through a snatch block to the drawbar, and drive in the opposite direction away from the falling tree.

?? I am not familiar with what a snatch block is but I googled so that I could see a picture. When you use a snatch block don't you have to have a second tree somewhere to attach the snap block to? What if there isn't another tree around? How do you attach the snap block to the other tree.

 

[motownbrowne]

?? I am not familiar with what a snatch block is but I googled so that I could see a picture. When you use a snatch block don't you have to have a second tree somewhere to attach the snap block to? What if there isn't another tree around? How do you attach the snap block to the other tree.

Another tree, or something solid to anchor it to.

Most people use a "tree-saver" strap, or a sling wrapped around a tree. With any work of this nature, strictly observing working load limits for every single component of the rigging is of the utmost importance.