PTO driven stump grinder

[5030]

I just retired from the US Army (05 AUG 1987 to 28 FEB 2023). Starting up a small business here in SC to stay busy. Driveway work, finish homesite grading, bush hog / lot clearing, etc... figured since I need a stump grinder for my own property, might as well add that to the equipment my business is purchasing. I like the Land Pride one, like how it works. Now I just need to find one, and see it in use.

There are a couple of YT video's of the Bauma Lite swing grinder being used. The LP swing grinder and the Bauma Lite are very similar (hydraulic cylinder actuation) but the Bauma Lite swing grinder is appreciably more costly than the Land Pride and the Bauma Lite uses proprietary carbide cutting teeth so you are limited to buying them from them.

The LP and the Shaver as well as the Erskine uses Green Teeth. One nice feature of the LP grinder that I like is the hinged back deflector guard. As you cut below ground, the deflector swings up and keeps the chips from going everywhere. Believe me, without the guard in place, chips go everywhere, I know I tried it. If I ever need replacement Green Teeth, Green manufacturing is 15 miles from here and being a registered Michigan company with an ag tax exemption, I can buy direct from them

All 3 of them including the Bauma Lite will grind 10" below grade but you have to remove the guard on the Bauma Lite to do that. Like I said previously, grinding any stump flush with the grade only promotes sprouting. I always grind them below grade, especially with a customer. No one wants to see a flush to grade stump anyway.

 

[Darth_DMack]

There are a couple of YT video's of the Bauma Lite swing grinder being used. The LP swing grinder and the Bauma Lite are very similar (hydraulic cylinder actuation) but the Bauma Lite swing grinder is appreciably more costly than the Land Pride and the Bauma Lite uses proprietary carbide cutting teeth so you are limited to buying them from them.

The LP and the Shaver as well as the Erskine uses Green Teeth. One nice feature of the LP grinder that I like is the hinged back deflector guard. As you cut below ground, the deflector swings up and keeps the chips from going everywhere. Believe me, without the guard in place, chips go everywhere, I know I tried it. If I ever need replacement Green Teeth, Green manufacturing is 15 miles from here and being a registered Michigan company with an ag tax exemption, I can buy direct from them

All 3 of them including the Bauma Lite will grind 10" below grade but you have to remove the guard on the Bauma Lite to do that. Like I said previously, grinding any stump flush with the grade only promotes sprouting. I always grind them below grade, especially with a customer. No one wants to see a flush to grade stump anyway.

Roger that Sir... looking at the YT vids now.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I always grind the stumps below grade too, but usually 5 or 6" is enough, unless the customers wants otherwise.

I also carry extra teeth with me, as they aren't too costly for my grinder, although I haven't had to replace any yet.

SR

 

[5030]

You have a lot of softer wood trees down your way that are very prone to sprouting if the stump is flush with grade. If I were you, I'd want to cut them below grade, especially for a customer.

 

[5030]

I always grind the stumps below grade too, but usually 5 or 6" is enough, unless the customers wants otherwise.

I always do 10 below, but then can your WM do 10" Looks to me like your WM would be at a heck of an angle doing 10 where as my cutter head just articulates down and the tractor stays in place and don't move.

Don't really matter anyway. What you have and what I have are 2 different concepts. Besides, after your last whining comments, I put you on ignore.

 

[Darth_DMack]

You have a lot of softer wood trees down your way that are very prone to sprouting if the stump is flush with grade. If I were you, I'd want to cut them below grade, especially for a customer.

That is the game plan...

We have a ton of pines, and smaller scrub oaks, white oaks, junipers, etc... all the HUGE oaks generally stay. I definitely want to be able to get down below the dirtline.

 

[5030]

When I quote a job (just got and ground 30 pine stumps for a gal on the other side of town), I cut them all 10 below, pile the chips back over the stump with the loader and let them turn to mulch. It is a money maker for me and upkeep is minimal. Grease the cylinder pivots, check the oil in the gearbox and grease the PTO driveline and that is about it.

Get a kick out of watching Chris grinding stumps on YT with his self propelled Rayco. he has a dozer blade on the front to push the chip pile back over the stump. I use the front loader bucket. He has an air cooled Deutz in his Rayco and like me, always 10 below grade

 

[5030]

I do find it somewhat amusing that people 'think' their equipment (in this case, stump grinders) are the best thing since sliced bread when, in fact, if they were, there would only be their brand and type sold... and then they get belligerent about it too.

Nothing is farther from the truth of the matter.

What fits one application may or may not be suitable for another application and that includes tractors as well.

IOW, what I own and use may or may not be what you need. Why there are many different brands and configurations that can be bought.

The initial post was all about what we use and I posted on that premise and nothing more.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I always do 10 below, but then can your WM do 10" Looks to me like your WM would be at a heck of an angle doing 10 where as my cutter head just articulates down and the tractor stays in place and don't move.

Besides, after your last whining comments, I put you on ignore.

Yes ma'am, from your previous post up above, I'm happy for you that you are making enough money to fill your closet with wonderful dress'. lol lol

SR

 

[jb1390]

I do find it somewhat amusing that people 'think' their equipment (in this case, stump grinders) are the best thing since sliced bread when, in fact, if they were, there would only be their brand and type sold... and then they get belligerent about it too.

Nothing is farther from the truth of the matter.

What fits one application may or may not be suitable for another application and that includes tractors as well.

IOW, what I own and use may or may not be what you need. Why there are many different brands and configurations that can be bought.

The initial post was all about what we use and I posted on that premise and nothing more.

I'd suggest you go back and re-read post #8. You know, the one where you said that other options are ok for little stumps, but you need something with balls. You further in post 11 suggest that an alternate design would take day and night on a large hardwood stump. I can tell you from my experience with my setup that is most definitely not true, and I will further emphasize that between my grinder and my grapple to move chips, I could grind as far down as I felt like it. 8-10" below grade is not an issue.

You seem to have dismissed the premise of an alternate design, and now are trying to claim the high ground, saying you posted on the premise of what you use (only), and claim it's amusing that people "think" their equipment is the best thing since sliced bread. Then tell the OP flippantly how to do a search for a discontinued Landpride model, and then go on to call people belligerent. It's a little ironic.

Anyway, glad you enjoy what you have, hope it continues to serve you well. Feel free to block me too if you see fit.

Not directed at anyone, I wish all the bickering wasn't here in the thread, I fail to see how it helps the OP. I think it's possible to describe rationale behind a choice, explain why it works for them, without saying everything else is terrible. I chose what I chose based on simplicity and price, and with some work, it has served me very well.