Pt 422 mowing on a hill

[bert145]

Update shut off in the middle of mowing won't start back 3.5 hrs on it

Just bought a brand new 422 trying to mow a hill about 16 degrees it will go up it fine but with the deck down the front tires spin out I have it on float any ideas that will up I thought about chains anyone else have this problem??

 

[SpringHollow]

I would take it out of float and raise it slightly. That will put more weight on your front wheels.

Ken

 

[bert145]

My yard is full of slopes and dips it would cut horrible with put the float on

 

[m5040]

PT has a draft feature that starts with the 1430 and up, it loads the front tires. You may want to consider liquid ballast in your front tires and maybe iron weights in combination to overcome the light front end when in float.

 

[ponytug]

Just bought a brand new 422 trying to mow a hill about 16 degrees it will go up it fine but with the deck down the front tires spin out I have it on float any ideas that will up I thought about chains anyone else have this problem??

Welcome! Where are located? How big a hill are we talking about? Area? Length of slopes? Any photos? Is this a lawn, or a field/pasture?

Both chains and different style tires (Do you have the lawn tread?) would improve traction at the expense of your surface. I use chains to brush cut thistle patches on 25-30 degree slopes with a 1445. Without chains, if I cut the thistles when they were particularly wet, the tractor was always sliding a bit down the hillside due to the slick thistle sap, even with draft control which is a huge help. Chains keep the tractor anchored.

Have you tried mowing later in the day? Can you figure a mowing pattern that lets you mow down the steeper slopes?

Now that you have a PT, there's also the "regrade the slope" plan, moving top soil around and filling in the subsoil.

All the best,

Peter

 

[bert145]

Welcome! Where are located? How big a hill are we talking about? Area? Length of slopes? Any photos? Is this a lawn, or a field/pasture?

Both chains and different style tires (Do you have the lawn tread?) would improve traction at the expense of your surface. I use chains to brush cut thistle patches on 25-30 degree slopes with a 1445. Without chains, if I cut the thistles when they were particularly wet, the tractor was always sliding a bit down the hillside due to the slick thistle sap, even with draft control which is a huge help. Chains keep the tractor anchored.

Have you tried mowing later in the day? Can you figure a mowing pattern that lets you mow down the steeper slopes?

Now that you have a PT, there's also the "regrade the slope" plan, moving top soil around and filling in the subsoil.

All the best,

Peter

Well now it shut off in the middle of mowing 3.5 hrs on it won't start back

 

[ponytug]

Well now it shut off in the middle of mowing 3.5 hrs on it won't start back

Sorry!

Does your 422 have an oil cooler fan?

All the best,

Peter

 

[bert145]

Sorry!

Does your 422 have an oil cooler fan?

All the best,

Peter

Yes it has one it started back after letting it sit made it 1 lap shut off again fired up back up acted like it was Goin 2 die again so I just shut it down let it cool down and go from there

 

[ponytug]

Yes it has one it started back after letting it sit made it 1 lap shut off again fired up back up acted like it was Goin 2 die again so I just shut it down let it cool down and go from there

How full was your fuel tank? I ask because some of the 4XX series designs have had issues with vapor lock. Is that a possibility? If so, there are some simple fixes with fuel line insulation.

How old is the fuel? Could it be winter blend, rather than summer blend? Octane? Is that a Kohler engine?

All the best,

Peter

 

[bert145]

How full was your fuel tank? I ask because some of the 4XX series designs have had issues with vapor lock. Is that a possibility? If so, there are some simple fixes with fuel line insulation.

How old is the fuel? Could it be winter blend, rather than summer blend? Octane? Is that a Kohler engine?

All the best,

Peter

Yes it's the Kohler I just got it yesterday I ran what gas was in it out and put 5 fresh gallons in it after it cools it fires right up and runs maybe the Hydraulic oil is getting hott but I feel like the engine should run at least.. another thing do u know why it has motor oil instead of hydraulic oil just a side thought

 

[ponytug]

Yes it's the Kohler I just got it yesterday I ran what gas was in it out and put 5 fresh gallons in it after it cools it fires right up and runs maybe the Hydraulic oil is getting hott but I feel like the engine should run at least.. another thing do u know why it has motor oil instead of hydraulic oil just a side thought

I'm glad it is work better for you now.

Lots of theories on the oil, and there are long discussions elsewhere here that you might find informative.

FWIW:Here's my personal take;
Fixed hydraulic systems tend to run at a single temperature, and the system and oil is designed for that. e.g. a hydraulic elevator or a production line. Mobile equipment has to start under a wide variety of temperatures. Some manufacturers decouple the hydraulic system to start up the engine, and then have a warm up period before they recommend use of the equipment. This reduces the load on the starter, and the pumps. Power-Trac tractors don't have a clutch, so the starter has to spin the engine, and the pumps, with all of the cold oil, when starting. Switching from a "typical" 30W hydraulic oil to a 15W40 oil reduces the cold viscosity by a factor of 2-4 fold. That's a big deal. A 10W40 also has a much better high temperature viscosity compared to a 30W oil.

Would adding more oil cooling help a 30W oil survive? Sure, but it costs horsepower. A 30W would also basically require an engine/ oil heater when cold, adding user friction, and probably some weight. Some users, e.g. @MossRoad plan their snow days to start the PT and let it idle for a while (15 min?) to warm up while they do something else (like shovel some snow). Others have installed glue on heaters, or use torpedo heaters when it is cold. Whatever works best for the owner; we all live in different climates. On my 1445, below 40F, I take it easy for 10-15 minutes, and I'm prepared for the hydraulic controls to be a bit sluggish until the oil warms up. Cold weather starting would be a lot worse with a straight 30W hydraulic oil.

So, I think using motor oil is Power-Trac's way to thread a couple of conflicting constraints. I change my hydraulic oil every six or seven years, mainly because I view it as really inexpensive insurance. Changing the fluid gets new antiwear compounds, new antioxidants, and gets rid of any fine suspended particles. I do try to always use brake cleaner to clean couplings before attaching them, and when not in use, I try to keep covers on the hose ends, or have them coupled together.

All the best,

Peter

 

[bert145]

I'm glad it is work better for you now.

Lots of theories on the oil, and there are long discussions elsewhere here that you might find informative.

FWIW:Here's my personal take;
Fixed hydraulic systems tend to run at a single temperature, and the system and oil is designed for that. e.g. a hydraulic elevator or a production line. Mobile equipment has to start under a wide variety of temperatures. Some manufacturers decouple the hydraulic system to start up the engine, and then have a warm up period before they recommend use of the equipment. This reduces the load on the starter, and the pumps. Power-Trac tractors don't have a clutch, so the starter has to spin the engine, and the pumps, with all of the cold oil, when starting. Switching from a "typical" 30W hydraulic oil to a 15W40 oil reduces the cold viscosity by a factor of 2-4 fold. That's a big deal. A 10W40 also has a much better high temperature viscosity compared to a 30W oil.

View attachment 918745
Would adding more oil cooling help a 30W oil survive? Sure, but it costs horsepower. A 30W would also basically require an engine/ oil heater when cold, adding user friction, and probably some weight. Some users, e.g. @MossRoad plan their snow days to start the PT and let it idle for a while (15 min?) to warm up while they do something else (like shovel some snow). Others have installed glue on heaters, or use torpedo heaters when it is cold. Whatever works best for the owner; we all live in different climates. On my 1445, below 40F, I take it easy for 10-15 minutes, and I'm prepared for the hydraulic controls to be a bit sluggish until the oil warms up. Cold weather starting would be a lot worse with a straight 30W hydraulic oil.

So, I think using motor oil is Power-Trac's way to thread a couple of conflicting constraints. I change my hydraulic oil every six or seven years, mainly because I view it as really inexpensive insurance. Changing the fluid gets new antiwear compounds, new antioxidants, and gets rid of any fine suspended particles. I do try to always use brake cleaner to clean couplings before attaching them, and when not in use, I try to keep covers on the hose ends, or have them coupled together.

All the best,

Peter

Thanks for the brake down. I let it rest about an hour made 5 laps shut down again think it's just getting to hot. I think I needed a bigger one but the pt 422 was in my budget it's a learning curve have 2 make it work now can't return it

 

[ponytug]

Thanks for the brake down. I let it rest about an hour made 5 laps shut down again think it's just getting to hot. I think I needed a bigger one but the pt 422 was in my budget it's a learning curve have 2 make it work now can't return it

Many of us have made modifications to help out our various needs. Some 4XX users have insulation wrapped their exhaust pipe, some have added an extra fan. I wrapped my muffler that in the 1445 is inside the cowling.

There are lots of options, and yes, it is a learning curve! Have fun! I still do. The PT has made working our ranch uncountably easier. It probably gets used once a day at least for something.

All the best,

Peter

 

[ernemats]

You might want to check the fuel filter and the tank. It used to be a lot of new power tracs had Debry in their tanks from the factory. Pieces of sealant .

 

[bert145]

You might want to check the fuel filter and the tank. It used to be a lot of new power tracs had Debry in their tanks from the factory. Pieces of sealant .

I will check that let rest for a few hours ran great never shut of think I'm under powered to pull my hill it will pull it fine but with the pto engaged it won't

 

[ponytug]

I will check that let rest for a few hours ran great never shut of think I'm under powered to pull my hill it will pull it fine but with the pto engaged it won't

I think the phrase slow and steady comes to mind. There are only so many horses there. I have similar issues, too.

All the best,

Peter

 

[2manyrocks]

These aren't like a car where pushing the pedal harder equates to more power. It's the opposite.

A 15 degree slope is a lot for any machine to climb and maintain traction.

 

[bert145]

These aren't like a car where pushing the pedal harder equates to more power. It's the opposite.

A 15 degree slope is a lot for any machine to climb and maintain traction.

Yea that's why I'm thinking chains so can slowly go up it

 

[2manyrocks]

ponytug recommended euro net style chains to me for my 1445 for a steeper slope in another thread. They are pricey.

The specs for the PT422 say 1,344 lbs which is a lot of machine to propel up a 15 degree hillside with a 22hp engine.

There have been some other threads discussing turf v. loader tires and what inflation is best for hills. Seems like some prefer running turf tires at lower pressure. What tires and pressure have you tried?

 

[Gravy]

Bert, do I understand correctly that you've just had your PT for a few days? It doesn't sound like it's working right. Tomorrow is Monday. I suggest that you call 1-800-THE-YARD (Power-Trac's 800 number) and talk to Terry. I think he is option 2 or 3 on the main menu.

That said, a 422 will always struggle hard mowing up a steep rough slope. I've had a 425 for over 20 years, and have upgraded the engine from the original 725cc to a 990cc, and it still takes some finesse. And the front wheels love to spin as the machine "climbs" the mower deck while doing uphill turns. 20+ years in, I still haven't completely beaten that. But as far as I know, there is still no competing machine that will do what the PT does for anywhere near a competitive price, so unless buying a much more expensive machine makes sense for you, it's worth learning how to work within the limitations of a PT.