Proper way to bind tractor onto trailer?

[HarleyBob]

I just purchased an 18 foot flatbed trailer for my Kubota L3010.
What is the proper way to bind the tractor to the trailer? Chains or wide (4") auto straps? I have some load binding devices for chain.
I need to add welded D Rings at the correct points for connecting chains. Where is it best to tie to tractor? I have a loader frame on front.

 

[heehaw]

if you can weld, put some chain hooks on the loader bucket, and bind it to the front with them: then if you have the draw bar in the back, bind it there, even if you put a 2 inch trailer ball on the draw bar, that should hold it, in my opinion. the only time i use the straps is hauling my kubota RTV: and then i go straight across the floor board with the strap, and set the park break, but i may start putting a small chain on the rear trailer hitch too, just for peace of mind.
heehaw

 

[Highbeam]

4 chains and 4 binders. 1 for each corner of the machine. I use the drawbar in the rear and the frame of the tractor in front. I believe using straps is not appropriate, and I believe tying off to the loader or an implement is not a replacement for chaining down the actual tractor.

I use the stake pockets on the trailer and the chains have a hook on each end like logging chains. All 3/8" chains and ratchet binders that only get used for tie down duty.

I tow my tractor 43 miles each way to my remote property and have gotten it down real well now. The attached photo shows my tractor which is about like yours and my 18' trailer. The combo weighs 7000 lbs. It took a while to figure out optimal chain routing and tie down plus positioning on the trailer for the best ride.

 

[HarleyBob]

I do have stake pockets but I may add welded d rings for the chains. I already have chain hooks on the bucket but did not know if they were strong enough to hold. I guess if a welded on d-ring or
welded on stake pocket will hold, the hooks on the loader will hold.
So it sounds like four chains and four binders.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Even if not commercial, it is a good practice to know and follow the DOT regs for cargo securement. http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/truck/vehicle/cs.htm Properly rated nylon straps will work but, you need to be very careful not to cut or abraid them. Therefore, chains are preffered. As Highbeam said, four chains, four binders for each corner are the best way to go.

While I see you are going to use D rings, I thought I would mention to those using stake pockets that DOT does specify how to do it. Chains should not be secured to the rub rail if any nor on the outside of the rub rail or pocket. Chains should be "fed" either down through the pocket and up either side with the hook hanging on the either side. They can also feed down outside the pocket and come up the inside with the hook hanging on either side.

 

[RayBee]

HarleyBob, .... Locate your tractor where it feels right (ample tongue weight etc.) and chain from your tractor's frame (front & rear) with
chains on four corners and binders. D-rings are a great way to secure
your load. Stop after about a half hour and check the tightness of chains
and adjust as needed. ... RayBee /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RayBee]

Here is where the chains terminate. I welded 4 of these after locating
the proper location of the chain from the tractor frame.
Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif RayBee

 

[HarleyBob]

From what your are describing in the quote below.. the chains should not be hooked to itself but to the stake pocket? Is a binder used
only in the middle to take up slack or is it to be used as one end and attached to D ring or Stake pocket?


"Chains should be "fed" either down through the pocket and up either side with the hook hanging on the either side. They can also feed down outside the pocket and come up the inside with the hook hanging on either side. )</font>

 

[JD3520]

You may want to re-think using straps. A few months back a TBN'er posted where his straps, that were rated way more then his load, broke allowing his tractor to be loose on its trailer. Maybe he will see your post and comment. If not, you may want to do a search before spending money on straps.

 

[JD3520]

O.K., I found the thread. It is dated 3-20-05 and titled:
Ratcheting tie downs BROKE in transit!

I would try to post a short cut to it but it would probably be too long and mikepa would be on my rear.

chuck

 

[cp1969]

Maybe I'm going about this all wrong, but I only use two chains and one binder.

I use clevises, one through the frame at the front and one through the drawbar, then I run the first chain through the clevis on the front making sure that the stake pockets through which it passes are well in front of the front wheels and take up as much of the slack in this chain as possible. Then I run the second chain through the clevis on the drawbar and hook it to stake pockets well behind the tractor. Then I put the binder on the aft chain. Tightening it tightens both chains.

Nobody mentioned whether they set brakes, put it gear, etc. I usually do both.

 

[N80]

I've only towed twice and used one chain up front around the axles and one in the rear through the drawbar socket. One chain binder in front, one in back. I guess I can see where a chain on each corner is better, but is the two chain method flat wrong?

 

[kevincook]

HarleyBob,

I have the same tractor as you. I attach two chains to a Very Large shackle on the rear drawbar. I then actually drive forward and tighten those chains. I have found that this works very well, better than the chain binders actually.

For the front I feed the chains over the top of the bottom loader support. The paint gets banged up but I figure that is easier to replace than a tractor that falls off the trailer. I use binders on the front chains only. Make sure the tails of the chains have as little slack in them as possible and that they are also hooked to the trailer in case there is a failure of the binder.

One last thing. Buy GOOD chain and binders. I won't use anything made in China for this. The transport chain that is sold at my tractor dealer is still pretty reasonably priced and I know it meets the standards. I think it is grade 70 and has a nice gold coating that prevents any rust so far.

I also have a bunch of high quality transport straps that I use for lots of things but never my tractor.

Good Luck,
Kevin

 

[Highbeam]

"From what your are describing in the quote below.. the chains should not be hooked to itself but to the stake pocket? Is a binder used only in the middle to take up slack or is it to be used as one end and attached to D ring or Stake pocket?"

The binder goes in the middle to take up slack, it took me a while to figure out what to do with a 14' chain that only needed to be 4 feet long. You end up with a big "U" of slack chain to wrap around and around the binder so that it doesn't dangle off the side of the trailer. The chain is hooked back onto itself at the tractor end and to the stake pockets on the trailer end. I also do not use a clevis or any other single piece on the tractor that can fail and leave the tractor unsecure.

Four chains and binders means any one of them, a stake pocket, or the tractor attachment point can break and the load will be secure. I never could get by with 4 chains and two binders since if the tractor wasn't perfectly centered one chain would always have more slack. After you tighten all 4 binders down it is a very secure load. Plus I get pretty particular about where the tractor sits on the deck so I like to park it and secure it right there.

Also, I prefer the ratchet binders way more than the over center kind called boomers by some. It is very simple and clean to take up the right amount of tension on the chains. and the ratchets can't loosen up.

I would like some stout D-rings but really the stake pockets seem to do the job well and I drop the hook through from above and then hook from the outside to the top of the pocket.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

A few years back, I bought a new trailer. At that point, I decided to get pro-active in "getting legal" as far as hauling equipment. No more old rusty chains, no more hoping the D.O.T. would like the way I was doing things. I decided to learn the laws pertaining to hauling what I have to haul, then seeking out a Kentucky State Police "Motor Vehicle Enforcment" Officer for his opinion.

What I've learned;

You will get 1000 different interpretations on the laws. Only one or two really matter. (D.O.T. cop and/or judge) Here's what they tell me. If you are hauling a wheeled vehicle THAT WEIGHS OVER 10,000 LBS, USE 4 CHAINS, 4 BINDERS. Also, if that "wheeled vehicle" has an attached implement, OR AN ATTACHED LOADER, they ALSO need SEPERATE chains. If that "wheeled vehicle is under 10,000, TWO chains will do the trick. They need to be properly rated. (Keep in mind, the chains for the loader, and rear mounted implements)

The chains, no matter how many, need to pull forward and to the rear, not allowing any lateral movement. They also need to pull side to side. (45 degree angles from the 4 corners....)

There's OUR interpretation of the written laws, then there's the friendly local D.O.T. Officers interpretation. The cold hard reality is, his is the only opinion that really matters when you're pulled over along a busy interstate. They seem to appreciate you (or me) being interested in following the law. I'd suggest giving them a call, or paying them a visit. Get their take on things. Then, once you've got your tractor loaded and chained down, give them a call. Have an officer stop by your place and take a look at your set-up. It's better to have their critique done in the drive than along that busy interstate.

Another recomendation is to "go over-kill". Get heavier chains than you HAVE to have. Get better load binders than the law requires. Use more chains. Have a heavier trailer with better tires than you absolutely have to have. Make sure your hitch is adaquate. If you appear "MORE THAN SAFE", you might just avoid that "white glove inspection" that usually turns up something wrong. (D.O.T. Officers are "inspectors". In order to justify their very existance, they need to find things wrong when they stop someone)

The law is the law. You can always fight what you percieve as an "un-just citation". It's much better in the grand sceme of things to AVOID GETTING THAT CITATION in the first place.

So, my humble opinion is, get the D.O.T. involved. (Or whatever the local/state vehicle enforcement organization in your area is called....) Let them suggest to you what it takes to maintain harmony.

 

[GeneD14]

Farmwith junk; you have said it well.

I also cross the chains to help keep the load centered. See picture.

 

[TimP]

Thank you everyone for their great suggestions and pictures.

Now... may I ask what the trailer capacity is for "your" trailer and how heavy is your set-up.

I want to get a trailer and have some extra capacity as a safety factor. I have a Kubota B2150 and will usually have a loader at least on the tractor.

Thanks, Tim

 

[tlbuser]

I'd suggest giving them a call, or paying them a visit. Get their take on things. Then, once you've got your tractor loaded and chained down, give them a call. Have an officer stop by your place and take a look at your set-up. It's better to have their critique done in the drive than along that busy interstate.
If you appear "MORE THAN SAFE", you might just avoid that "white glove inspection" that usually turns up something wrong. (D.O.T. Officers are "inspectors". In order to justify their very existance, they need to find things wrong when they stop someone)

AVOID GETTING THAT CITATION in the first place.

Best advice available

 

[tlbuser]

Ummm, that's not technically legal either.

 

[RonR]

I think you will get as many interpretations as there are people posting.

You want to be safe and you don't want to look like a rolling accident waiting to happen going down the road!

For my small Bota, I use two chains (grade 70 that don't get used for ANYTHING else) and one over center binder. I run the chains through a clevis on the front and rear, crossing the chain, and attaching the binder in the front. Excess chain wraps the binder.

I have a rachet binder, but its too slow IMHO. If I were towing cross country, I'd use it, but not for short hauls.

Ron