A friend gave me an Old 100 lbs. Propane Tank. I decided to use it, and build a Back Blade. I used a drill press, stick welder and a 4.5 inch hand grinder to complete this project. I used the Brinly Moldboard Beam, whereby there are some adjustments to the cutting angle. I also had to reinforce the Sleeve Hitch for strength. There are 30°, 45°, 90° Blade angle adjustments on Horizontal and Vertical plains. So far I have done some trial Soil Leveling which has worked well.
keep an eye on that rear linkage. Back blades tend to exert a great deal of side loading forces and might bend that all up, so ya may end up applying some 3/8" thick x 2" angle iron to those members. nice execution.
I really like it, it looks great! The only thing I may have done differently is add some back ribbing and a bolt on blade to the bottom for wear resistance. In the future you could always add a weight holder if you needed/wanted to add some down pressure. I have 6 big suitcase weights on mine to help dig through the packed snow or top soil.
Looks very good. One idea would be to put a couple of adjustable height shoes on the back of the blade,so you are not counting on the 3 point holding it at a set height that way the 3 point can be left in float and yet the blade does don't dig in any more than you want it. A square tube in a square tube with holes for adjustment and a round dished shoe works well in both directions
Thank You.. YES I have thought about adjustable wheels or shoes where I can set the height. (This Guy made his own adjustable height wheels for a plow, very interesting, shoes can also be installed)
I am also thinking of adding a 2nd spool control valve, w/ a switchable 3way & a 2nd Hydraulic Cylinder so I can have an independent rear lift control. The 3 way will shift the 2nd spool from the rear lift to the front of the tractor for a snowplow angle setup. The original single spool controls the snow plow lift, mowing deck lift along with the rear Sleeve Hitch via a rock shaft. I would have to remove the Bar that connects the Hydraulic Lift Cylinder and the Rock Shaft and install a 2nd Hydraulic Cylinder to the Rock Shaft. I'd like to be able to have an independent rear lift. This is something I'm thinking how to do it. I have an additional Control Spool valve and Hydraulic Cylinder already. Installing the cylinder should go pretty easy (shouldn't have said that) I have to drill a hole in the frame add a 3/4 round stock plate for the cylinder side, which I can weld up. The Rod Side of the Cylinder needs to be connected to the Rock shaft pivot arm via (I think) 1/2" Bolt Shaft 3/4" Hex. I have to make the 37° flare, 3/8" lines to run everything off the pump, it shouldn't be too difficult if I plan it out well. I am not sure yet where I can install the 3 way there is not a lot of room for all those extra hydro lines.