Pole barn posts

[pajoube]

Very good looking barn. Interesting that you mention pole barns to be no cheaper than stick building. I always thought pole barns would be much cheaper so gave no real thought to stick building. Will start looking at stick costs as well.
PJ

 

[Darren]

Unless you compact the fill well, you'll get settlement. I'd suggest buying longer posts for use in the filled area so that you're still using the same depth of undisturbed soil. When you do fill, do it in layers and compact each layer before spreading the next layer. Wait a year or so if you're going to put a concrete slab inside.

The other thing you might consider is buying posts with the 2.5 lb treatment. If you're in a coastal area, a marine lumber company can supply them (6x6s are a standard size) or they can be special ordered from the treatment plant. Those posts are treated to resist constant salt water immersion. Those won't rot in your lifetime or your grandkids.

 

[bmabe]

Carl,
That's a REALLY nice barn. A couple of questions, please: did you draw the plans? buy a stock set? or have an architect draw them up? I'd like to know more about the floor trrusses. Last, I didn't realize there was that much level ground in the state.
Barry

 

[Carl_NH]

The quotes I got were $28K for a complete pole barn with second story 24/36 incl. 4" conrete slab poured after setting the posts, and with T-111 siding not cedar shakes. This is a monolithic slab construction 18x24 "honch" with rebar around the perimeter, tied to interior steel mesh as the foundation, then 4" concrete avg in the center. Bolted to 2x6PT at the sill plate then stick framed from there.

Costs were $12 K matls, 2.5K concrete, then with my labor plus help for frame and sidewalls another $10K . The biggest cost was the floor trusses 18"x24' - 27 of them at $86 each but I don't like poles in the middle, plus wanted a 2nd story.

BTW, the previous comments about a "carriage house" aren't far off, since this is the Kubota house, plus workshop, plus storage for other stuff, which seems to grow every day..

Carl

 

[Carl_NH]

Barry,

I did the plans, prepped the site, then per town requirements needed a signed off set of dwgs by a structural eng. So i drew up side, front and rear elevations, with framing and roof details then took to the eng. firm and they signed off with their stamp of approval.

Cost me a few $ more with the changes they wanted. I used rough EWP 1x8 for sheathing from the land clearing, but due to shear factors the eng firm wanted 5/8 CDX on the gable endwalls, and 30 lag bolts in the concrete to sill with hurricane straps every 4'.

Regarding floor trusses, there are a few types, the two I am familiar with are the I-Beam type essentially laminated wood with a 2x4 top and bottom, and the type I used which are a 2x4 truss setup. check out www.wood structures.com (based in Biddeford Me) as they make the trusses. Also some canadian outfits are very competitive as well for floor trusses.

BTW, the 18"x24"x 24' 16" OC truss setup is good for 60PSF on the second floor. See the photo for detail, also if you want a material list, I would be happy to supply one - email me.

Carl

 

[ns_in_tex]

We built a hay shed (pole barn type) with used power poles, about 10 years ago in east Texas (No snow load). Engineered by the seat of pants method, so you engineers can tell me everything that is wrong & I hope there may be some good idea to help. The pole portion of the shed is 30x60. The overall roof coverage is close to 50x60. 4/12 roof pitch. All except end poles are pretty much out of the weather. The bottom cord of truss is about 14/15' above ground. Each pole top center was knotched with chain saw wide enough for truss to sit down in tight and bolt run through pole and truss. Poles and trusses on 10' centers. Truss top cord is 2x8 & bottom cord is 2x6. Then ran 2x6x10' between trusses on 3' centers (I think) and attached to trusses with joist hangers and screwed down with 1-1/4" screws. We left 8' overhang on truss 2x8 top cord and braced back to pole. Installed 25' Sheet metal roof and the attachment shows what you get. Total material cost was less than $5,000.00 at that time.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Hay shed, top of pole view

 

[ns_in_tex]

Hay shed, Truss view
Have fun building & enjoy it for years to come.

 

[Carl_NH]

Neal,

Good looking pole shed, this is typical of what I have seen for equipment storgage etc. The post location 10' O/C is light I think for structural purposes, though it has served you well in Texas. We would have 4'- 6' O/C with snow load (though steel roofs don't hold snow try telling the local inspector, he will say what about the next roof/owner) as typical construction. and sidewalls to keep the weather outside. The side wall will create more shear on the bldg, as you have open sides I am sure this will stand for many more years.

This is a good testimonial for pole barns structural simplicity as well being cost effective to build. I could have built a 24x36 barn similar for about $6-8K, without a foundation, sidewalls, windows, doors and siding. but I wanted a weather tight structure for tools and storage.

The biggest factor against the pole barn construction for our location was the rock and ledge, since the poles provide the structural integrity and some may have been 2' and others 4' deep in my case.

Carl

 

[Soundguy]

If he is only building a 24 x 36, 6x6 pole construction with no concrete footer should be fine.

He can do a search for 'friction piles' on the internet.

Soundguy