Plow

[Williy]

Back in the 70's the tractor for me was an IH 100hp 2wh
with front end loader. To get feed fot the milk cows a chopper
and a hay feeder chopper filled the hay feeder when full towed
back to the barn yard this was down twice a day the feeder was approx 30 or 40 ft long. As for plowing 4 bottom plow bigger tractor worked
18 hours non stop then his regular driver came back

willy

 

[OzarkChris]

In the "old days" dry fields were burned after the harvest before being plowed a little before first frost.

I don't know about where you live, but we still burn our fields - sometimes it gets plowed in, but usually just lays there until grass grows up again.

 

[LouNY]

Almost never burn fields in my area, Upstate NY.

 

[TonyTill]

If you are plugging your coulters are not set properly and or your grasses are very tall. Often plowing is easier if a field is disced prior to plowing, and allowed to dry a bit.
Proper setup with the right tire spacing and plow positioning is critical for good plowing.

This is just my opinion developed from plowing with several tractors from an Allis WD, IH 400, 560, Ford 8000, IH 1066, 1086, then Magnum series 7110-7250's.
Draft control very seldom works well, when your tires spin you are actually putting less of a draft load on your tractor.
The later electronic computer controlled draft using lower arm sensors will work marginally, they are better when interfaced with the ground speed radar units.

Thanks!

 

[TonyTill]

Your right side tires, front and back, have to move freely through the last plow furrow created. If your plow is 12" wide, producing a 12" wide furrow, but your rear tires are 15"+ wide, forget a consistent result.
(I speculate this is your problem.)

If your plow is 14" wide, producing a 14" wide furrow, but your rear tires are 15" wide, the weight of the ballasted right rear tire usually will pack moist furrow soil sufficiently so the plow can operate as designed.

A 16" wide plow will allow the rear tires of any COMPACT tractor, including your MF 451, to move freely through the last furrow created.

INFORM US OF THE WIDTH OF YOUR PLOW AND THE WIDTH OF RIGHT REAR TIRE.

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I will measure and get back to you. Thx!!

 

[TonyTill]

I have plowed hundreds of acres with a 2 bottom ford roll over plow pulled by a Ford 3000. Weight on rear tires was critical. Ours were filled and we had wheel weights also since that tractor was a 2wd with a front loader. We were plowing heavy sod in late fall/early winter when there was sufficient moisture in the ground. The draft control on those tractors worked fine. The tractors that I have to day without draft control are a pain to plow with.

All these factors have been mentioned earlier in the thread. Hope you can figure this one out.

I have a front loader but no weight on back wheels.

 

[TonyTill]

Your right side tires, front and back, have to move freely through the last plow furrow created. If your plow is 12" wide, producing a 12" wide furrow, but your rear tires are 15"+ wide, forget a consistent result.
(I speculate this is your problem.)

If your plow is 14" wide, producing a 14" wide furrow, but your rear tires are 15" wide, the weight of the ballasted right rear tire usually will pack moist furrow soil sufficiently so the plow can operate as designed.

A 16" wide plow will allow the rear tires of any COMPACT tractor, including your MF 451, to move freely through the last furrow created.

INFORM US OF THE WIDTH OF YOUR PLOW AND THE WIDTH OF RIGHT REAR TIRE.

Attachments

• 
  DSC00420.jpg

  1 MB · Views: 652

Will measure and get back soon!! Thx!!!

 

[TonyTill]

What is the plow? Pictures of the plow, the setup, and an action pic of the results would help us tremendously.

Ballast isnt your problem. A 5000# 2wd UTILITY tractor with R1 tires should pull a 2-bottom plow with ease.

Your setup method isnt bad.....but using a 6x6 block (which is only 5.5"), and the tire will flex around it, and you have also not blocked the front tire.....you are basically setting the plow to cut SHALLOW. Like 4"

Whatever the bottom width....say if its a 14" plow....Ideally set BOTH the front and rear tires @7"......then adjust and manipulate the top and side link to have the plow shares LEVEL and FLAT.

Draft control not working shouldnt be causing you this much grief. Because setup properly...the plow should self regulate to an extent. For example.....when you raise the 3PH and lift the plow out of the ground.....notice the points pointing at a downward angle?......Now lower the plow to ~7" below grade and it is now level if you setup correctly right......Now any deeper than 7" and the points start pointing upward.....meaning if the plow tries to dive too deep, the geometry should level it back up at 7"

Now the trash issue.....

There are so many styles of plows and some handle trash better than others. Its not always a coulter setting. Without pics to see whats happening, hard to say. But some more modern plows have higher clearance beams, and trash/cover boards above the moldboard. They all help. The older style plows like the ford or dearborn plows wadded up above the moldboard with trash real bad, especially corn stubble. I fought it with my 3-14 plow. I switched to a higher clearance plow with trash boards.

But there is also a trick of using a piece of #9 wire about 8'-10' long, and tying around the coulter shaft and letting it trail in the furrow to help burry the trash and crop residue. So thats something for you to maybe google and experiment with

But Pictures Pictures Pictures. They will help us figure out whats going on better than any type of written description you can give us

I did put both front and rear tires on block. I will reassess and post pics soon. Thanks!!

 

[LD1]

The loader on a 2wd tractor may be the problem shifting the weight off of the traction tires and onto the fronts where it isnt needed. If its a QA loader take it off

 

[TonyTill]

For a 2-WD tractor to pull a 2-Bottom turning plow it is essential that the rear two tires be 3/4 filled with liquid, usually termed tire ballast, for traction.
Are your rear two tires filled with liquid?

It is also quite helpful if the 2-WD tractor is equipped with R1/agricultural tires, which have the protruding bar tread. With liquid ballast in the tires, R1 bar tread will provide optimum traction. Relatively lightly used tires will have sharper tread than old worn tires, gripping the earth better.

You are not trying to plow dry ground, are you?

No. If anything, the ground is a little on wet side due to all the rain.