Notch Master

[crazyal]

I looked at them and they look really good. I was given a cheaper copy of their bottom end model. But it has bushings vs the sealed bearings. The problem with the bushings is that metal from cutting gets on the shaft from the cutting lube and works it's way into the bushing wearing them out quicker. If I had to buy one I think I would opt for the sealed needle bearings.

 

[Shield Arc]

I was just kidding about selling it, first couple tries were not very successful.
It's probably gonna be more time consuming with the practice than I can devote to it, to learn it right anyway, I'll just plod along with it when I can.

A little trick that may help you, if you are right handed? Hold the torch in your left hand, and feed the wire with your right hand. Always try to rest the torch hand on the base material, or something.

 

[rbcsaver]

I'm gonna sell that thing, got no business owning one. :laughing:
Guess I'll make a base for my vise tomorrow. That'll be handy too, drop it in the same tripod. I'll try to be pro, tho, and weld the bolts on the other side.

I would drill, tap, use threaded stock and use red Lock-Tite. They won't come out, unless you need them to at some point.
Steve

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I looked at them and they look really good. I was given a cheaper copy of their bottom end model. But it has bushings vs the sealed bearings. The problem with the bushings is that metal from cutting gets on the shaft from the cutting lube and works it's way into the bushing wearing them out quicker. If I had to buy one I think I would opt for the sealed needle bearings.

I do not use any lube when notching tubing. I gets impregnated in to the metal and makes it dsificult to weld. even if you use a cleaner to remove the lube after cutting you have to worry about the cleaner fumes when welding. Some can be deadly.
Bill

 

[Scooby074]

nice notcher!!

I think that the Notch Master was the original that the chinese copied. Looks sturdy.

 

[crazyal]

I do not use any lube when notching tubing. I gets impregnated in to the metal and makes it dsificult to weld. even if you use a cleaner to remove the lube after cutting you have to worry about the cleaner fumes when welding. Some can be deadly.
Bill

One of the welding supply shops I deal with sells a synthetic lube for cutting that doesn't need to be cleaned off before welding. I think it's more of a coolant than a lube. If I remember correctly it doesn't contain petroleum or Chlorine products. It's a house brand, like the spray fluid I use to keep splatter from sticking to the mig torch. It's been years since I've made a roll cage so I'm not even sure where the bottle is. But I found if I don't use a lube or coolant then the hole saws start to break teeth off but with it the saws last a very long time.

Lowbuck makes a nice notcher that doesn't require hole saws or any lube.

 

[crazyal]

nice notcher!!

I think that the Notch Master was the original that the chinese copied. Looks sturdy.

If they did they did a poor job. I think they copied the jigger, which IMO is a downgrade to the nicer woodward or JD2 notchers.

 

[jake98]

made this up today, now I'll be able to find my vise.

 

[jake98]

A little trick that may help you, if you are right handed? Hold the torch in your left hand, and feed the wire with your right hand. Always try to rest the torch hand on the base material, or something.

Thanks S/A, will try that. Going to get some thinner wall pipe now and try some tigging. Somehow I fear, I am not destined to be a tigmeister.. :laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

Thanks S/A, will try that. Going to get some thinner wall pipe now and try some tigging. Somehow I fear, I am not destined to be a tigmeister.. :laughing:

Oh it takes time! It is the hardest process to learn. What you need is a good pair of thin gloves that can take a lot of heat for your torch hand. Next time you're at the super market pick up one of those Ove Gloves. They are really nice for Tig welding. Majority of the time I don't wear a glove on my filler wire hand.