Newest addition to my family of tractor implements

   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #1  

SI2305

Gold Member
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
320
Hello all,

I asked last week for some advice about getting either a landscape rake or some other implement to rake up grass left over from hogging my field area. I want to thank everyone that offered advice or input. I found every single nugget to be quite valuable.

So I took that information and came to the conclusion that I could not justify the expense of either a pine straw rake, or especially, a landscape rake. In my traditional capacity, I decided that I would build one. I am almost finished, at this point all I have left to do is to get the 3pt attached and it should be ready for its first test demo. Please, let me know what you think--the good, the bad and the ugly.

I have never attached pictures, so bear with me.

SI 2305

CX200. LX4, 5' grader blade, subsoiler, Land Pride 60" RFM, soon to be 72" grass rake
 

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   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#2  
A couple more picts

When I decided to make this I thought that 4x4 lumber would be sturdy and easy to work with. I have done my best to make certain that the hanging 4x4 is secure against the two lifting "forks." As it stands now, I need to get the forks attached and a top link connected. Still, though this nay not be pretty, I think it will get the job done.

Thanks for any comment in advance,

SI2305
 

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   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #3  
Re: A couple more picts

What are you building? Nice shop.----Fuseboxer
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #4  
The steel and springs look good and expensive are you sure you could not have purchased something economical? My question for an engineering perspective why did you choose 4x4 for all. What about stress and need for stronger across the flat. Now that you have come this far do not change to an 6 x 6 across the forks but what about another 4 x 4 across the forks for support. Use lag bolt only save the other hardware. ----Fuseboxer
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #5  
The cut ends need endcoat, you do not have it and it is hard to purchase. The wood treatment is 3/10" inside. The cut end rots out fast at least spray clear sealer on the cuts. Where did you get the steel springs and steel? ---Fuseboxer
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Fuseboxer,

Your observations are perfectly fine, but the steel is a piece of black piping that is J-bolted to the 4x4. I bought it at the local farm supply store for I think $6. The springs are a very heavy gauge, dual tine that rises from the tip into a coiled torsion bar, leaves about 6 inches, forms another coil, then ends downward in another tip. I know it sounds complicated, so the simpler version is that it is an inverted "U" with a torsion bar at the top. This was by far and away the most expensive portion of the build and cost just about exactly $50. Yeah, you are right, part of my plan is to do some angled cross bracing for just the reason you mentioned. I think the whole thing is going to cost me about $150. It is not yet completely done (partially for reasons mentioned above), but the general idea is visible and apparent.

SI2305
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Re: A couple more picts

Fuseboxer,

Actually, my intent was simply to be able to rake up some of the long cuttings that get left over after hogging tall grass. I want to be able to use these in a windrow style compost pile. I have a bad back so raking is not the simple chore it used to be. I used 4x4 for two reasons.

1) it is very affordable.

2) I figured that at 6', it would be overly strong.

thanks for the tip about the end rot, I will come up with something that will address this issue, probably tar and maybe a metal end-cap.

I noticed you saw all the extra bracing at the end--two angle braces and four hurricane clips per arm. These small pieces were put in place to keep the whole assembly steady so I could drill out the holes. Drilling through two 4x4's is tough on the drill, arms, and especially any fine adjustments. I figured that I would keep the hardware in place for added sturdiness--I would rather over-design than under-design.


Thanks for your input,

SI2305
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #8  
Re: A couple more picts

Fuseboxer,

thanks for the tip about the end rot, I will come up with something that will address this issue, probably tar and maybe a metal end-cap.

SI2305

You might want to look into a product called 'anchor seal' as it will seal off the end grain. You might have to reapply it occasionally as in your intended application it will wear off over time but that should not be to cumbersome.
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #9  
Last edited:
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Re: A couple more picts

try "another addition to my implement family"
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #11  
Re: A couple more picts

Neat simple idea. One suggestion, put metal or wood diagonal braces from the outer ends back to the tongues at 45 degree angles. If you catch one end or load one end too heavy the hardware you've installed may fail to resist racking of the parallel arms. Triangles are key to structural success in the absence of absolutely ridgid joints. Make sure to post some pics "in use". MikeD74T
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #12  
Re: A couple more picts

Mike makes a great point that I thought of as well, in the diagonal bracing.

One thing that you may want to consider is that the bracing need not be quite as beefy as your primary members, it is designed to stop them from moving, not bear the load they do. (4 by lumber may not be necessary, a simple metal strut would work)

In past similar projects, I have used threaded rod for bracing of this sort. I like it because as the item ages, sometimes the lumber will twist a bit, or rack. When this happens, a few turns of a jam nut and anchor nut will correct and get you back to square. (Much in the manner that turn buckles are used in diagonal bracing on doors and gates)

Good luck.
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Re: A couple more picts

Actually, this is a work still in progress. The 4x4's were 6' long and the arms are 2' 7.5" long. This leaves me with enough wood left over to put another 4x4 crosspiece near the link arms. I also have some treated 2x4's to put in angle bracing for the crucial triangles. Actually, the main reason I made the thing out of wood is simply that I have quite a bit of experience with wood and almost none with metal. So I figured that the 72" 4x4 would be plenty strong for raking grass and heavy enough to not need any additional weight. BTW, I have two thoughts about the angle bracing. I could use wood 2x4, or I could use cable with turnbuckles. Advantage of the latter is that it would be less "stuff" and could be adjusted nice and tight. The 2x4 would be permanent but very rigid.

BTW, I have not yet decided where to but top link. One part of me says put the remaining 4x4 near the rear and attach a 2x4 or other stock vertically from there. I probably have enough 4x4 left from other projects to raise up a top link using 4x4. If I were to attach it the way I did the other posts, would it be sufficiently secure? Maybe an L bracket wrapping around the bottom of the horizontal 4x4 and a lag screw would work. As far as I know, most of the forces are going to be vertical. Will this work?

By the way, thanks for all the advice and info.

SI 2305
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#14  
New build almost done!

Hello all,

Thanks much for all your comments. By now I just about have my rake done in a prototype fashion. By biggest concern now is the top link connector. I took measurements from my middle buster to get the height about right and used that as a sort of rough blueprint--reverse engineering to be more accurate.

Some have asked "why wood". the answer is simple--that is the material I have on hand and have experience working. Using 4x4, I have no qualms about strength as long as I have measured right. Right now, my biggest concern is the toplink. In its present condition, it is being held by wooden connectors--something I intend to change today. As soon as I have better right angle connectors, longerr lag bolts, etc. I will attach these.

Pictures will be comming soon.

SI2305
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #15  
Re: New build almost done!

I really wish you would continue on your previous thread. This is your 3rd thread on the same subject. It is somewhat a little confusing. :confused2:
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Prototype toplink

Hi all,

My project is nearing completion, at least in a prototype configuration. At present I am working on getting the toplink in place. This was a little difficult as initially I had no idea just how high up or far back the toplink should be. Eventually, I reverse0enginered the deminsions from my subsoiler and used a 4x4 for the toplink. I noticed a couple of questions as to why I used wood instead of steel for this build. The answer is simple: I have a fair amount of wood lying around, and the 4x4's were cheap. Furthher, I have lots of experience with and tools for working with wood. I have almost no experience working with metal. I decided that the 4x4 stock would be plenty sturdy. Finally, I don't think I will be needing any additional weight.

I attached a couple of pictures of the new toplink. I am going to disasemble it tonight and rebuild it--this time with more metal connectors--90 degree arms, hurricane clips and some heavy lag and carrage bolts. As it stands right now, the actual connection for the toplink is too weak. I think that again, I will use 4x4 stock for the mounting.

In these pictures, I used eyebolts as they seemed to me to be the only piece of hardware I am familiar with that would hold the stresses asociated with its basic function. I realize that I am limiting myself to woodworking hardware (I also realize that the 2x2 if FAR too lightweight for the job.) but I have had good luck in the past and a good sturdy eyebolt seemed tough enough for the task.

I would love any suggestions/hints/or warnings of defects. I still need to put in cross bracing, but please, let me know what you think. Thanks in advance.

Still, I attached a couple of pictures to get the basic idea. I hope you enjoy.



SI 2305 200CX, LX4, 5' grader blade, Subsoiler, Land Pride 60" RFM, 72" rake in the making
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Pictures I missed

Sorry guys, I thought I had the pictures attached but obviously I did not. Here is my second attempt.
 

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   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #18  
Re: Prototype toplink

Please keep the thread parts in one thread. Thanks

I am anxious to see how it works for you. Would consider building something similar if it pans out.
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Re: Prototype toplink

Sorry about the thread posts. I thought I had the pictures attached on the orriginal, but when I saw what I posted they were missing. This has been my first experience posting pictures so I am a bit confused from time to time. I will keep you informed of my progress. I hope to have the toplink redesigned soon and the arm links attached and ready to go. Thanks for the comments, it is nice to know that someone else considers this as interesting as I do.

SI2305
 
   / Newest addition to my family of tractor implements #20  
I merged as many together in one thread. Hope that helps eliminate the confusion of multiple threads. ;)
 

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