New tractor advice sought

[Billy Bee]

Paying more than you want to pay, and not what you want, sounds like a recipe for regret. I would check out the other dealers, you may find something you really like at a better price. If you can do your own routine maintenance, your new tractor may never see the dealer again. See if the other dealers would pick up your tractor free or for a small fee if warranty work was required. Your initial savings may offset any transportation costs, and you would have a tractor you are happy with.
Just my 2 cents
Bill

 

[cford36]

Paying more than you want to pay, and not what you want, sounds like a recipe for regret. I would check out the other dealers, you may find something you really like at a better price. If you can do your own routine maintenance, your new tractor may never see the dealer again. See if the other dealers would pick up your tractor free or for a small fee if warranty work was required. Your initial savings may offset any transportation costs, and you would have a tractor you are happy with.
Just my 2 cents
Bill

I agree!

 

[ericm979]

I've been doing those calculations in my head for a week. I do all the routine maintenance on my vehicles. Most never see the dealer after I buy them. It's warranty or non-routine stuff that concerns me. Also that I'm not as familiar with tractors as I am with cars and motorcycles.

Just judging from the posts here, the other brands I'm looking at are not as reliable as Kubotas. I'm not trying to denigrate anyone's favorite brand or any of the helpful people from dealers who post here. I realize that forum posts are not the most accurate way to judge reliability but it's the best I have. There's a larger percentage of owners who posted that they had a problem or two and it was taken care of by the dealer. If the dealers were closer it would not be much of an issue.

I've only been shopping the other tractors on specs and features. I have yet to test drive one. I might not like them.

I was exchanging emails with the two closest dealers, to get prices and get an idea of how I'd get support. Neither are willing to pick the tractor up. One of the local Kubota dealers is, and included 50 hr service as part of the quote (that's the full price dealer). I've already scoped out renting a trailer and truck large enough to tow it up my mountain; it's about $300/day. Dropping the tractor off and picking it up would cost $600 and two days off work. Both dealers have not returned my last email. That's what made me realize that I maybe should take the safer local option. If they can't take two minutes to send an email what are they going to do when I have a problem? If only Dave's Tractor was closer to me! Based on Daves posts I'd be comfortable being some distance away... but not 4+ hours.

At least with a Kubota it'll have good resale value (remember where I live "tractor" == Kubota) and I can sell it if something I like better comes out or has support in the area. My wife had to remind me that it doesn't have to be the last tractor I buy.

Of course if one of those dealers replies I might change my mind...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I've been doing those calculations in my head for a week. I do all the routine maintenance on my vehicles. Most never see the dealer after I buy them. It's warranty or non-routine stuff that concerns me. Also that I'm not as familiar with tractors as I am with cars and motorcycles.

Just judging from the posts here, the other brands I'm looking at are not as reliable as Kubotas. I'm not trying to denigrate anyone's favorite brand or any of the helpful people from dealers who post here. I realize that forum posts are not the most accurate way to judge reliability but it's the best I have. There's a larger percentage of owners who posted that they had a problem or two and it was taken care of by the dealer. If the dealers were closer it would not be much of an issue.

I've only been shopping the other tractors on specs and features. I have yet to test drive one. I might not like them.

I was exchanging emails with the two closest dealers, to get prices and get an idea of how I'd get support. Neither are willing to pick the tractor up. One of the local Kubota dealers is, and included 50 hr service as part of the quote (that's the full price dealer). I've already scoped out renting a trailer and truck large enough to tow it up my mountain; it's about $300/day. Dropping the tractor off and picking it up would cost $600 and two days off work. Both dealers have not returned my last email. That's what made me realize that I maybe should take the safer local option. If they can't take two minutes to send an email what are they going to do when I have a problem? If only Dave's Tractor was closer to me! Based on Daves posts I'd be comfortable being some distance away... but not 4+ hours.

At least with a Kubota it'll have good resale value (remember where I live "tractor" == Kubota) and I can sell it if something I like better comes out or has support in the area. My wife had to remind me that it doesn't have to be the last tractor I buy.

Of course if one of those dealers replies I might change my mind...

Dave's tractor is where I bought my last Mahindra from. 650 miles door-door one way. Never had a better buying experience and the one warranty issue I had, they just sent me the replacement part. My first Mahindra purchase was from further away than Dave's, didn't know about Dave's at that time. Zero issues.

My suggestion, go over to the World AG Expo next month and look at ALL the different makes and models and get the tractor that you like the best. Forget about where the dealer may be. Percentages are by far in your favor that you will NEVER need the dealer at all. Or just get something that you don't really like, but is convenient to get work done on IF there is a problem, and that is a big IF.

Good luck with your decision, whatever it may be. :thumbsup:

 

[fried1765]

I've been doing those calculations in my head for a week. I do all the routine maintenance on my vehicles. Most never see the dealer after I buy them. It's warranty or non-routine stuff that concerns me. Also that I'm not as familiar with tractors as I am with cars and motorcycles.

Just judging from the posts here, the other brands I'm looking at are not as reliable as Kubotas. I'm not trying to denigrate anyone's favorite brand or any of the helpful people from dealers who post here. I realize that forum posts are not the most accurate way to judge reliability but it's the best I have. There's a larger percentage of owners who posted that they had a problem or two and it was taken care of by the dealer. If the dealers were closer it would not be much of an issue.

I've only been shopping the other tractors on specs and features. I have yet to test drive one. I might not like them.

I was exchanging emails with the two closest dealers, to get prices and get an idea of how I'd get support. Neither are willing to pick the tractor up. One of the local Kubota dealers is, and included 50 hr service as part of the quote (that's the full price dealer). I've already scoped out renting a trailer and truck large enough to tow it up my mountain; it's about $300/day. Dropping the tractor off and picking it up would cost $600 and two days off work. Both dealers have not returned my last email. That's what made me realize that I maybe should take the safer local option. If they can't take two minutes to send an email what are they going to do when I have a problem? If only Dave's Tractor was closer to me! Based on Daves posts I'd be comfortable being some distance away... but not 4+ hours.

At least with a Kubota it'll have good resale value (remember where I live "tractor" == Kubota) and I can sell it if something I like better comes out or has support in the area. My wife had to remind me that it doesn't have to be the last tractor I buy.

Of course if one of those dealers replies I might change my mind...

I absolutely DO NOT UNDERSTAND why nearly everyone on TBN is hung up on the "good dealer" syndrome, and how close the "good dealer" is!
Over the years (many) I have bought cars, I have NEVER bought a car just because a "good dealer", happened to be nearby.
We do not live in the Sahara desert! There are car and tractor repair shops everywhere.
I have a 20 year old Mercedes that has only seen the dealer ONCE in 20 years, and that was NOT the original purchase dealer.
If you need a repair part, it does not need to come from a nearby dealer. It can come from ANY dealer. The UPS/FedEx drivers will be happy to leave it at your house.
When I buy a car/truck/appliance etc. I buy from a business that has the best quality product, and at the best, or close to the best, price.
I probably would not buy an appliance from 100 miles away, but have bought cars from up to 500 miles away.
Those cars NEVER went back to THAT dealer!
I do not see a leisure tractor (it seems that most of us are leisure users) as being much different than a car purchase.
If you MUST buy a NEW (that is another subject) tractor, why not buy what you want, at the best deal you can make.
Who cares where the dealer lives!
And.... if you are still stuck on that dealer thing ..... buy a trailer to fit your tractor!
Then....you can haul your tractor to the dealer whenever you are overwhelmed by that desire to visit the dealer.
You will soon also find that an equipment trailer is a VERY handy thing to have.

 

[IslandTractor]

I understand Fried's point but his thoughts are probably more appropriate for an experienced tractor owner than someone acquiring a tractor for the first time. Last thing you want when you choose your first tractor is some salesman who is just interested in selling you what's on his lot.

I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to drive to Dave's to see his Mahindras. Whether or not you buy a Mahindra you can be sure that you'll get top notch advice on what sort of equipment would suit you best. Maybe the closer dealer is as good but unless you know that it is worth driving to talk to someone like Dave.

I bought my second tractor sight unseen from a dealer I had learned to trust here on TBN. He delivered it 300 miles to me on an island, had dinner, spent the night with us and then drove home the next day. I never have had to take the tractor to a dealer again though I have spent time on the phone getting advice and ordering supplies. Having a dealer close by can be nice but it is WAY over rated. UPS and cell phones and digital photography make many trips to the dealer unnecessary. I had my dealer's mechanic talk me though the diagnostics to figure out why my 4 wheel assist stopped working. I was literally crawling under the tractor with my cell phone while he directed me to check things. Discovered a loose electrical connector (brush disconnected it) and plugged it back in. That was significantly more efficient than even taking the tractor to a dealer ten miles away.

 

[ericm979]

Good points about not needing dealers nearby. I have bought competition motorcycles sight unseen from halfway across the country. But in that case I knew who the importer was and that they'd take care of me, and I know motorcycles better than I know tractors. So I'm being cautious. After all the point is not the tractor, its what I can do with it.

 

[Oldtimermich]

Use beet juice for loading the tires... much better than ending up with a rusty wheel too...IMO

 

[IslandTractor]

Good points about not needing dealers nearby. I have bought competition motorcycles sight unseen from halfway across the country. But in that case I knew who the importer was and that they'd take care of me, and I know motorcycles better than I know tractors. So I'm being cautious. After all the point is not the tractor, its what I can do with it.

All the more reason to go see Dave.

 

[fried1765]

Use beet juice for loading the tires... much better than ending up with a rusty wheel too...IMO

"Beet juice" is great, and is the heaviest per gallon of all options, but it costs like he11!
That said, windshield washer fluid is about 1/3 the cost of "beet juice", though it does weigh about 25% less.
If it does not go below freezing in the Santa Cruz Mts., or only occasionally goes slightly below, why not use water?
Water is not as heavy as "beet juice" either, but water is FREE!
Whatever the liquid ballast, tubes should be used.
Calcium Chloride (CaCl) should NOT be used under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ...even with tubes!

 

[mike69440]

"Beet juice" is great, and is the heaviest per gallon of all options, but it costs like he11!
That said, windshield washer fluid is about 1/3 the cost of "beet juice", though it does weigh about 25% less.
If it does not go below freezing in the Santa Cruz Mts., or only occasionally goes slightly below, why not use water?
Water is not as heavy as "beet juice" either, but water is FREE!
Whatever the liquid ballast, tubes should be used.
Calcium Chloride (CaCl) should NOT be used under ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, ...even with tubes!

So do you just run water with a rust preventer adder in the radiator also? A little risky.

 

[IslandTractor]

So do you just run water with a rust preventer adder in the radiator also? A little risky.

Not sure what your point is but water or water plus methanol (WWF) has been used successfully as tractor tire ballast for years without problems. Rust is an issue if CaCl comes in contact with metal rims but not so much an issue with pure water or WWF. "Beet juice" is also largely water and doesn't have rust issues. Bottom line is that salt, not water, is the real enemy of tire rims.

 

[fried1765]

So do you just run water with a rust preventer adder in the radiator also? A little risky.

I did not make ANY reference to the radiator/cooling system.
I do use a 50/50 antifreeze-water mix in my cooling systems.
The engine water pump, and cooling system, needs the lubricant/rust protection provided by antifreeze.
There would be absolutely no purpose for lubricant with rust protection in tubed ballasted tires.
Liquid ballast freeze protection is obviously never required if outside air temperatures remain above freezing.

 

[mike69440]

Not sure what your point is but water or water plus methanol (WWF) has been used successfully as tractor tire ballast for years without problems. Rust is an issue if CaCl comes in contact with metal rims but not so much an issue with pure water or WWF. "Beet juice" is also largely water and doesn't have rust issues. Bottom line is that salt, not water, is the real enemy of tire rims.

Point I was alluding to is that a few days below 30F and water in tires will freeze and more than likely ruin the tire. Maybe just dilute windshield washer fluid for protection down in the 20F range.

 

[IslandTractor]

Point I was alluding to is that a few days below 30F and water in tires will freeze and more than likely ruin the tire. Maybe just dilute windshield washer fluid for protection down in the 20F range.

I've never had water freeze in a tire but my understanding is that it does no harm to the tire. Not even sure it harms the tire if you roll with it frozen for a bit but that would be the only circumstance where any damage might occur. If you just let it thaw before using, the fact that the water froze isn't such a big deal. In most cases folks who use just water are rarely going to have a prolonged or deep freeze so at worst there would be slush in the tire. Not sure you'd even notice that. It would take a couple of days of below freezing temps to freeze the water in a tractor tire.

The reason to use methanol mix or salt or beet juice is really so you can use the tractor in subfreezing temps.

 

[TheMan419]

Yeah I would use Rimguard or www in areas where temp below 32 are common. If you lived in the south water is the way to go. Cost is right. If you spring a leak it is fairly environmentally friendly.

 

[bspeedy]

OP - I, too, was much more comfortable servicing and maintaining motorcycle and automobiles before I bought my tractor. You will find a tractor very straightforward and simple to work on - unless the new ones have more going on.

If you are handy with bikes and cars, don't be concerned about the tractor repairs and maint.

Good luck.

 

[ericm979]

I drove up to Dave's yesterday. Thanks to the guys who encouraged me to do so. Ranks up there with the best dealer experiences I've ever had. Dave and his sales manager Rob took time to answer a ton of questions and to understand my needs. I'm feeling pretty confident that I can be a remote customer of theirs. It helps that they run tractors on a dyno before delivery.

I checked out and drove (in the parking lot) four models- Mahindra 2538, Branson 4015, 3725 and 3520. All HST. All had good points and some drawbacks but I liked the 20/25 series the most. I like the control ergonomics (except the rear diff lock that's on the wrong side) and the fit and finish. To me the 20/25s have the Kubota L3x01s beat hands down. Better features, ergonomics, price, and the fit and finish on external stuff is just as good. They're quieter than the Mahindra and maybe the Kubotas. They are probably more comparable to the L60 series Kubotas which I did not test drive. I did price one out however. Yow! The difference can buy a lot of implements.

I actually liked the 3520 the most even though it wasn't on my list. It seemed slightly nimbler than the 3725 and the control action was a bit lighter (which may be just individual unit variabilty or break in).
The reason it was not on my list is because its a little lower in power than I was looking at. Now I need to figure out if 29 pto hp is enough to run a woodmaxx chipper on large fir like I want or if should go with one of the more powerful models.

Dave's does Rimguard so that's what I'll be using.

 

[ericm979]

I ended up ordering a 3725, box blade and rotary mower. Top 'n tilt, smaller wheels & tires from the 3520, and rear spacers. I was going back and forth between that and the slightly less expensive 3520 and my wife said we should get the more powerful one. Ok, sure! I'm looking forward to using it to move dirt and destroy vegetation.

 

[DavesTractor]

Thanks for the business Eric. That's a nice tractor package.

For those that might wonder why he switched to the shorter tires, Eric is concerned about center of gravity and nimbleness. The 3520 R4 tires are a little smaller, yet still good size. But they are not adjustable for width as the centers are welded into the rim hoops. We have heavy duty machined steel hub-centric spacers available that give a little more width to the rear tires. I think they are 1.5" each. The result should be a more stable tractor for hilly terrain. A little wider, a little lower, and then 75% Rim Guard fill in the rear tires. A smart choice for this task.