New to mowing hills... what are safest mowing patterns?

[Gary Fowler]

If you have a smart phone, there is an app for finding degrees of slope for it. Most folks go by the pucker factor. If it is uncomfortable in the seat mowing side slope, as in you are sliding out of the seat, then it likely needs to be mowed up and down. Unless it is really steep at the turning point, then you can likely just make a sharp turn at the top and head back down.
If it is really steep, I will straight back up the slope then turn at a slant slightly at the top so that the tractor is almost aligned with the next mowing path and then turn back straight and mow back down.

From your photos, it looks like only one parcel is steep enough to require backing up and that is the upper right area and it may even be too steep to mow even backing up. With R4 tires, you will likely loose traction when backing up if it is too steep to mow. I have mown pond dams that were over 45 degree slope and would loose traction sometimes backing up. You dont have to worry about flipping forward when backing up a hill or going down a hill in a straight line. The bushhog is your counterweight to help avoid this.

NOTE: If you start loosing traction (rear wheels sliding) when travelling up or down a hill, just work it like sliding on ice, steer in the direction of the slide so as to keep your direction of travel going straight down the hill. DO NOT LET THE TRACTOR GET SIDE WAYS AS IT MAY FLIP.

 

[Agvg]

I know, have driven those but the point was wider track, those small tractors are quite low and should be very stable if you increase track width.

 

[ericm979]

Put the tractor in 4wd when on slopes. Tractor brakes are only on the rear wheels. If you're going down a steep hill in 2wd, the rear end gets light and the brakes are less effective. When in 4wd the rear brakes will slow the front wheels too, so you effectively have braking on the front.

I mow in reverse a lot. You can get the mower into more places. Twist around to the right in the seat to look back as it's easier to reach the hst pedals. Some rotary cutters have tailwheel brackets made from thin metal strap. Those will bend if you back the mower into a stump or rock. Some people run the stabilizers loose when mowing so the mower can move side to side some. Some telescoping stabilizers have slotted holes for this. The idea is that the mower will move sideways if it hits something. I like to have the mower in a predictable position so I can mow close to fences and trees, so I just try to be careful. I mow with my hand on the 3pt position control so I can raise the mower quick if I need to.

 

[Fuddy1952]

I'm next state over...Virginia, blue ridge area not all that far to WV and very hilly here also.
Now this is going to sound stupid...but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I have a couple of Cub Cadet zero turn mowers I use on the worst parts, 50" deck.
The center of gravity is low, very safe, sometimes I mow everything with them (it takes a few days), usually cut just the worst part along property lines then bush hog the better parts.
Worse case with Cub is although I'm leaning way over it can scoot downhill...but no problem or danger.
I like to bush hog downhill if it's steep. I would not want to turn on a steep hill. When I mow first a few rows that gives me a safe place to make the turn.
If it doesn't feel right I don't do it. A few places I have bush hogged straight uphill.
Yesterday a fellow here delivering lumber got a large flat bed truck stuck. Another guy on a skid steer made ruts and almost turned over. We've had rain, ground very soft. I wouldn't mow now for anything.

 

[MountainMomma]

Nice looking place.

Good idea about walking the area you are going to mow, before hand. Also, your tractor probably has some documentation about slope capability, that you might want to review.

Thanks! We love it.

I am a manual reader, unlike my husband. I will sit and read the manual cover to cover before operating this tractor. I will be looking for that documentation, thanks!

 

[MountainMomma]

If you have a smart phone, there is an app for finding degrees of slope for it. Most folks go by the pucker factor. If it is uncomfortable in the seat mowing side slope, as in you are sliding out of the seat, then it likely needs to be mowed up and down. Unless it is really steep at the turning point, then you can likely just make a sharp turn at the top and head back down.
If it is really steep, I will straight back up the slope then turn at a slant slightly at the top so that the tractor is almost aligned with the next mowing path and then turn back straight and mow back down.

From your photos, it looks like only one parcel is steep enough to require backing up and that is the upper right area and it may even be too steep to mow even backing up. With R4 tires, you will likely loose traction when backing up if it is too steep to mow. I have mown pond dams that were over 45 degree slope and would loose traction sometimes backing up. You dont have to worry about flipping forward when backing up a hill or going down a hill in a straight line. The bushhog is your counterweight to help avoid this.

NOTE: If you start loosing traction (rear wheels sliding) when travelling up or down a hill, just work it like sliding on ice, steer in the direction of the slide so as to keep your direction of travel going straight down the hill. DO NOT LET THE TRACTOR GET SIDE WAYS AS IT MAY FLIP.

VERY helpful info! Thanks!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I don't know how steep the land is that you want to mow. On my tractor I've had to raise my bush hog and also the three point hitch finish mower slightly to keep the high side tire from losing traction on the grass. One time it was only the gauge wheels on the finish mower that kept my tractor from rolling over.

I bought a set of tires to use as duals and that has saved my bacon many times.

I wish I knew how to rotate the images so they show the way they are supposed to. I am not mowing grass up side down!

 

[MountainMomma]

So, pictures are hard to get a real good sense of it, but here goes.

First one is a panorama, and I measured the left slope at its steepest, and it痴 70ｰ. The opposite side of the bowl is also 70ｰ. In the middle is a swale that is going uphill away from the camera for about 1200 feet, give or take. I dunno, maybe 10-15ｰ tops? Not a problem. We mowed the center and lower slopes in our 8N last year, and this new tractor has to do better than it did, with its wider front wheels and loaded back tires.

Our orchard (next pic) is also clocking in at 70ｰ, and we went up and down it with our 8N. (It痴 level at the top; no problem to turn around.

Last picture is our front yard and hill up to the pasture (across our driveway). I measured it at its steepest, near the top, it is 65ｰ. My husband JUST managed to mow that cross hill on our 8N, but it sure looked scary.

 

[radios1]

I'd have a 4 point ROP to start. a 2 point has killed many before. you only live once. then only mow up and down the hill. there are mowers connected by a long arm, where the tractor can remain on level ground, and the mower angles for a very steep incline, but that's only good for about 10 feet or so from the tractor. I've seen those used..

 

[TripleR]

My approach is pretty much like Gary's though I will mow diagonally in some places and in some places will pick up a bucket of dirt for counter balance. To start with determine if an area really needs to be mowed and how soon until you become more comfortable with your equipment.

Land can be tricky, just because there are no obstacles are present now doesn't mean there won't be next month, we are talking about hills and a washout can appear really quick. A low bucket has saved me several times.

Beware of a missing or poorly calibrated pucker-meter.

 

[4570Man]

How did you measure? I assume you meant 70 percent because 70 degrees is an impossible hill. Even dedicated slope mowers wouldn’t do that. Even then I doubt your measurements are accurate because 70 degrees would put most machines on their side and is very difficult to walk on. Slopes are hard to display with pictures but those look like 15-20 degrees not 34 degrees.

 

[CobyRupert]

Here's some good info from Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences on Overturn Hazards:
View attachment Tractor Overturn Hazards 202[1].pdf

I don't like to generalize, but I think for most tractors the center-of-gravity (CG) is probably at ankle level when siting on the seat. A cab will raise the COG some. Loading the tires will lower the CG some. A front end loader (FEL) may raise and/or lower the COG depending on it's position. That is, any weight added above the CG raises the CG (more "tippy"), weight added below lowers the COG (less tippy).)

Raising a mower up above the axle raises the tractors CG. Lowering the mower to just above the ground lowers tractor's CG. Lowering the mower so its weight no longer hangs from the tractor but rests on the ground effectively "raises" the tractors CG.

As the illustrations show, one can see that the tire width would drastically alters at what angle the tractor needs to be tipped at before the COG "overtakes" the outside of the tire and the tractor rolls over.

"Pucker-factor" or how much you slide in the seat has nothing to do with the physics/geometry of when the tractor will roll over. If wheels are set wide enough and CG is low enough, I guarantee you and your pucker factor will chicken out WAY BEFORE tractor rolls over. And vice-versa.

 

[ericm979]

I mow with the loader on so I can keep the bucket low. Whatever you do don't raise the bucket way up so you can see. Keep it down. It's useful for mowing to find rocks you forgot about.

The front axle does not do anything for the tractor's stability because of the central pivot. This means that if the rear tire on the low side goes into a hole the entire tractor will tilt- the front's not going to keep it up.

 

[Agvg]

It takes time to be comfortable on slopes, have been a passenger on the fields in the picture, know your equipments limits are the clue.

Never felt nervous, but if the wheels slips and starts sliding you better jump....

And we drove a AEBI TP so I'm not sure it would be particular fun to try a compact tractor

 

[4570Man]

I mow with the loader on so I can keep the bucket low.

The front axle does not do anything for the tractor's stability because of the central pivot. This means that if the rear tire on the low side goes into a hole the entire tractor will tilt- the front's not going to keep it up.

Which is why you’d be better off taking the loader off. Not to mention it makes you crab down hill worse.

 

[Agvg]

Judge by the picture it should not be a big problem, if needed invest in dual rear wheels as it helps enormously on stability.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Also in WV, but near the Ohio river valley, at the Mason Dixon line. Very steep hills, and small-ish tractor with 5' brush hog and front loader. Wheels loaded and spaced out, plus extra spacers to gain 9" over that. R1 ag tires. Factory ROPS, and built a full roll cage with limb risers that connect at the front grill guard. Loader always on, often with a 5' chunk of rail road track bolted inside the bucket for extra front ballast. Ive used an angle meter and accurately mesured 30* side slopes and 45* up and down slopes... but its really clawing to climb up the 45*, mostly go down that steep. Feels like its standing on its nose going down that... I know my tractor well, and have been on many in the past 30+ years of running them.

Take some time and get to know your new machine, start on flater areas, and 'push the limit' a little more as you get more comfortable.

Find a ditch/bank, and test side hill angle, doing so in a place where if it flops over, you just hit the other side of the ditch, not barrel roll to the bottom of the holler (as is often a risk I face) and park it there. Assess the angle, and how it feels from the seat... learn from that and apply to real-world use.

Good luck, and be safe!

 

[MountainMomma]

How did you measure? I assume you meant 70 percent because 70 degrees is an impossible hill. Even dedicated slope mowers wouldn稚 do that. Even then I doubt your measurements are accurate because 70 degrees would put most machines on their side and is very difficult to walk on. Slopes are hard to display with pictures but those look like 15-20 degrees not 34 degrees.

So, I got the Clinometer app and went out to my hill and laid my phone on the angle and that痴 what I got. :confused3:

I guess in the end the # doesn稚 matter. I知 going to do what makes me feel comfortable. Basically, I started this thread by wanting to know some safe approaches to handling hills, and have gotten a lot of good general advice. THANKS to all who took time to answer! I値l let you know how it goes.

 

[bcp]

Bruce

 

[bcp]

Bruce