New Sawmill Shed

   / New Sawmill Shed #41  
Nothing happened yesterday while we got pounded by a Nor'Easter, but I was back out early this morning getting the rafters up. The tail end of the storm was rain that froze overnight, so everything had a thin glaze of ice but it burned off by about 10am.

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Got a real nice precision fit on all the birdsmouth cuts, although since this is green lumber I bet they won't look that nice for long.

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This fresh sawn SYP lumber is very nice, most has very tight grain and is nice to work with. That's a 2x4 in the photo below. Smells great too. Only problem is sap everywhere. Will need to figure out how to wash it off my clothes at some point.

View attachment 680135

Tomorrow will be the roof purlins, fly rafters, fascia, and drip edge, then I'll be ready to start putting up the metal.

View attachment 680134

That "birds mouth" is perfect!
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Are you using MasterRib?

I bought 5V panels, although ribbed would have only been another $30-40 (on top of $415). When not using the proper eave and rake trim, I find the ribbed panels look unfinished. 5V has a much lower profile, and I can get away with simple drip edge to make it look tidy.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #43  
Love seeing progress pictures!!!!
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #44  
S219

Do you have to worry about the beams rotting or getting termites?
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Got all the purlins up except for the bottom row before I ran out of lumber, so I will need to saw another log tomorrow morning to make a few more 2x4s. Otherwise things went smoothly today. Here's tonight's sunset picture:

IMG_4326.jpeg

When I put up the rakes (also known as fly rafters) on the side overhangs, I beefed up every other purlin with a 2x4 block to help avoid sag. I don't usually see purlins sag at the ends, but here I have 18" overhangs, more than usual, so I figured a little extra bracing was good insurance.

IMG_4325.jpeg
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#46  
S219

Do you have to worry about the beams rotting or getting termites?

Shouldn't be any worse than anything else I have built out here. Once the roof is on the structure should stay dry and that will deter most termite action. Anything activity that does happen will be easy to spot and treat.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Got fascia and drip edge up, final row of purlins, and assorted unfinished details here and there.

IMG_4332D.jpeg IMG_4333D.jpeg

I'm ready to put up the roofing metal but unfortunately we have rain/snow coming tomorrow so I had to tarp up the sawmill and put all my tools and ladders away. Hope that will be the last time. I'll hopefully get the metal installed on Monday or Tuesday.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Wet yesterday and windy this morning, so I didn't get a start on the metal roofing until about 11am today.

I always rig up a string along the front eave to guide my panels, using little guide blocks that I can line up with the edge of the end fly rafters. This makes it quick and easy to keep the panels in line and avoid any wander

IMG_4338.jpeg

Got 10 panels up, with 4 left for tomorrow. So far so good. The 5V panels are easy to work with. I pre-drill my holes to make things go faster while up on the roof, though it does tend to eat up a few 1/8" drill bits (I drill 3-4 panels at a time).

IMG_4341D.jpeg IMG_4342D.jpeg

Tonight's sunset shot is from the roof.

IMG_4340.jpeg
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #50  
Great job on the shed. :thumbsup:

I love the string line idea and will have to borrow it the next time I do a metal roof. I always struggle with keeping the panels lined up. Thanks for the tip.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Got the roof panels finished this morning then spent a couple hours picking up around the worksite. The biggest mistake I made on this project was not thoroughly cleaning up the clay that came out of the post holes when I drilled them. It got spread around, mixed with pine needles, and got under my shoes and on my ladders all the dang time. Whenever it rained it would turn into glue. I should have known that would happen as it's been a pain on other projects too. Next time I need to get that crap shoveled up and out of sight as soon as it comes out of the hole. It's worthless and can't even be used to backfill holes.

The only thing left to do is put up some siding along the eaves and gables, and for that I need to saw more wood. This afternoon I debarked and power-washed these logs that have been sitting around for a year:

IMG_4346.jpeg

I had sawed a couple for 2x lumber, and the center of the logs is fine, but the outer sections are a little spalted and buggy. I wouldn't want to use it for structural stuff, but it ought to look really nice for siding. So I will probably cut all of those logs into 3/4" or 1" boards. I will stack it and let it dry for a week or so then start putting it up. Most likely go with board and batten style (batten will hide the gaps as the wood shrinks).

I am debating whether to put siding on the entire end walls, or just the top section. I think full siding will look nicer, but maybe block too much light. I have some time to think about it.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #52  
Very nice. I think that if you sealed off the end walls, you could have dry storage inside those walls.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #53  
I've never been around anything like this.

What is your process for debarking and power-washing logs?
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #54  
Wet yesterday and windy this morning, so I didn't get a start on the metal roofing until about 11am today.

I always rig up a string along the front eave to guide my panels, using little guide blocks that I can line up with the edge of the end fly rafters. This makes it quick and easy to keep the panels in line and avoid any wander

View attachment 680755

Got 10 panels up, with 4 left for tomorrow. So far so good. The 5V panels are easy to work with. I pre-drill my holes to make things go faster while up on the roof, though it does tend to eat up a few 1/8" drill bits (I drill 3-4 panels at a time).

View attachment 680753 View attachment 680752

Tonight's sunset shot is from the roof.

View attachment 680754

Good show!

Just in time for the 2" of rain we are getting in Virginia. :D
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #55  
I've never been around anything like this.

What is your process for debarking and power-washing logs?

When pine has sat around for a year, the bark practically falls off on it's own. I use a floor scraper to peel bark that is loose.

[
For bark that is tight, and really dirty logs, I debark just a strip in front of where my band blade is going to travel to keep it from hitting trash and getting dull.

 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#56  
I've never been around anything like this.

What is your process for debarking and power-washing logs?

As Andy notes, on these old logs the bark was very loose. I just went up and down the logs with an old ice scraper (kind of like a flat hoe) to knock the bark off, then washed off the rest of the crud with a small electric power washer. As I found when I sawed one of these logs a couple weeks ago, there was all kinds of junk under the bark, including what looked like dirt and clay. I could tell it dulled the blade on my mill, plus it made a mess of the saw area. So it's good to get them clean.

On newer pine logs, I have not been debarking before I saw. But I have a small hand tool called a bark spud, made by Peavey Mfg, that works pretty well with some elbow grease.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Good show!

Just in time for the 2" of rain we are getting in Virginia. :D

Boy did we get pounded. It rained steady all evening, then around 11:25pm a front came through that was like a hurricane. I looked out the back window, with the wind driven rain coming at me, and it was like a fire hose coming at the house. Several of the windows actually started leaking, first time I have ever seen that. Knocked some stuff around on our property, washed out some of my landscaping, and some limbs came down, but no real damage. Winds were clocked at around 65 mph. I have puddles in places I haven't seen puddles before.

The saw shed did fine but this storm showed me that I need to put a gutter on the rear edge of the roof. It looked like water had run off the roof then flowed through the shed. I do plan to add more gravel to the floor to raise it up, but I think it will be best to redirect that rainwater away from the structure as much as possible. I figure I'll put up a basic 5" K gutter and downspout, then I can use some drain tile pipe to route that to the nearby ditch. I'll have to keep the gutter cleaned out frequently because of the pine trees, but that rear eave is only about 8' off the ground so it won't be hard.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed
  • Thread Starter
#58  
Very nice. I think that if you sealed off the end walls, you could have dry storage inside those walls.

Yeah, and there would be room for a big shelf overhead too. I think that will be the way to go.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #59  
Very nice :thumbsup:
We had your wind and rain on Christmas day, also melted about a foot of snow.
How about leaving a "live edge" on the siding. A fitting tribute to the logs going through your mill and in my thinking, sorta plays on a theme with your tulip poplar bark accents on your home.
 
   / New Sawmill Shed #60  
Boy did we get pounded. It rained steady all evening, then around 11:25pm a front came through that was like a hurricane. I looked out the back window, with the wind driven rain coming at me, and it was like a fire hose coming at the house. Several of the windows actually started leaking, first time I have ever seen that. Knocked some stuff around on our property, washed out some of my landscaping, and some limbs came down, but no real damage. Winds were clocked at around 65 mph. I have puddles in places I haven't seen puddles before.

The saw shed did fine but this storm showed me that I need to put a gutter on the rear edge of the roof. It looked like water had run off the roof then flowed through the shed. I do plan to add more gravel to the floor to raise it up, but I think it will be best to redirect that rainwater away from the structure as much as possible. I figure I'll put up a basic 5" K gutter and downspout, then I can use some drain tile pipe to route that to the nearby ditch. I'll have to keep the gutter cleaned out frequently because of the pine trees, but that rear eave is only about 8' off the ground so it won't be hard.

I put french drains all over my place, the only way to keep it somewhat dry in normal rain, but this storm flooded us like I no other and we live here for 18 years now. But the pond is full and clean, I like that :)
 

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