New Rippa NDI313 problems

[Muddernuker]

Hello all, first time posting. Just took delivery of a Rippa NDI313 Chinese mini excavator to complement my '21 Mahindra 1626 which has been flawless. I did the usual setup, added fuel, hydraulic oil and engine oil. The engine is a B&S 13.5HP and it fires up fine but after ten minutes of operation it overheats and shuts down. Before that I also notice as if there is a lack of power especially when I push down the boom at low boom speed. The engine bogs down. There is a little heat exchanger box thing with fans which I suppose is for hydraulic cooling. I live at a altitude of 7,300 ft which robs a little power. Has anyone else experienced the same symptoms on a similar Chinese excavator with the same engine? The metal encasing the mechanicals gets extremely hot. Not sure what to do. I may initiate a return request and eat up shipping. I'm sure the seller will use every excuse to refuse as the excavator was delivered with cosmetic damage although nothing major. Please let me know.

 

[Muddernuker]

To add insult to injury, after letting the machine sit for two hours, it won't start. I'm going to try again tomorrow morning. So far my first impressions are that the machine is garbage. It's on me for buying **** Chinese products. I'm hoping it is something simple but I'm not holding my breath. Sorry for the venting.

 

[MattB4]

Sorry you are having problems. I just bought a similar Baby ex from Typhon with the same engine. I am doing a bit of a review of my first week over in the imported Mini ex forum. But I will say that the engine gets hot with about an hours operation. So much so that I am adding a cooling fan to the unit soon. But with cool mornings the last few days I was able to do my septic field trenching in rather hard digging conditions by running for an hour or so than breaking for an hour. I am up to 7-1/2 hours on the machine and I like it so far for what it is.

ETA: Your hard start might be due to the gas getting hot and causing a vapor lock. Carefully remove the fill cap to vent.

 

[oldnslo]

Presuming this is an air-cooled motor is there adequate room around the engine to draw fresh cool air in and exhaust warm air out of engine compartment.
Question now is can air flow be improved without major renovations?

 

[Muddernuker]

I am planning on adding fans. Perhaps in a push pull configuration to draw in and at the same time pull hot air out. I was reading more info on the possible symptoms and I am suspending the hydraulic pressure relief valve. I'm going to adjust or reset to see if it helps. I'm disappointed but the machine does look well made. Especially the engine compartment. It looks so clean and orderly. Now I need to figure out how much amps I can draw to run fans.

 

[Muddernuker]

Presuming this is an air-cooled motor is there adequate room around the engine to draw fresh cool air in and exhaust warm air out of engine compartment.
Question now is can air flow be improved without major renovations?

The engine compartment has side grills/openings to provide air flow but I'm not sure if it is adequate.

 

[tman1020]

Venting exhaust to outside of engine bay if not already done would be helpful. Also add your fan opposite of exhaust side to push air into engine compartment And help push Hot exhaust air out.

 

[oldnslo]

I am planning on adding fans. Perhaps in a push pull configuration to draw in and at the same time pull hot air out. I was reading more info on the possible symptoms and I am suspending the hydraulic pressure relief valve. I'm going to adjust or reset to see if it helps.

Relief valve set to high would over load engine only when operating a function and then stalling that function. Should have minimal effect on engine over heating unless you are constantly stalling functions.

Does the hydraulic oil also get real hot quickly? If yes then install a gauge in the pump pressure line and monitor pressure with no functions active and while running functions. This will provide some insight on what the pressure is during operation vs sitting idle. At idle should be minimal estimate 200 PSI or less.

I'm disappointed but the machine does look well made. Especially the engine compartment. It looks so clean and orderly. Now I need to figure out how much amps I can draw to run fans.

 

[Muddernuker]

Relief valve set to high would over load engine only when operating a function and then stalling that function. Should have minimal effect on engine over heating unless you are constantly stalling functions.

Does the hydraulic oil also get real hot quickly? If yes then install a gauge in the pump pressure line and monitor pressure with no functions active and while running functions. This will provide some insight on what the pressure is during operation vs sitting idle. At idle should be minimal estimate 200 PSI or less.

Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into saying a gauge. I didn't get a chance to mess with the relief valve today due to rain. I think the pressure is set too high, at least from what I can gather after reading the operating manual.

 

[Muddernuker]

Thank you all for the replies. I wish this machine would have been good to go from the get go like the Mahindra.

 

[Muddernuker]

Today, I adjusted the relief valve and the good news is that movement is much more fluid. The bad news of that the machine cut off after getting hot. Seems like there isn't adequate ventilation. The rear hatch gets hot as a griddle. If pancake mix would stick vertically I could make breakfast. I'm going to explore ways to imprime ventilation and add a fan of two.

 

[oldnslo]

Mudd,
Out of curiosity what is sensing the heat and shutting the engine off?

Temp sensor in or on the engine

Temp sensor in the engine compartment

Etc..

 

[Muddernuker]

Mudd,
Out of curiosity what is sensing the heat and shutting the engine off?

Temp sensor in or on the engine

Temp sensor in the engine compartment

Etc..

Honestly, I don't know if there is a sensor at all. When it shuts down it acts as if it was running out of gas until it just dies and won't turn on until it cools off. It's possible it may have a temp sensor but the manual is as clear as mud. What I did notice, is that the exhaust flex pipe runs right by the valve cover needlessly heating the area. The rear hatch gets very hot so I'm thinking it is reflecting heat back to the engine. Looking at the machine, there is a plate in the front of the engine compartment which is behind where my legs are when sitting on it. The plate is held by four screws and it is there to access the filter. I figure that if I buy an aluminum plate and cut out a whole for a fan in pusher configuration it may help with cooling. Also, I may remove the exhaust pipe and leave the original exhaust as it comes from B&S. Also, I may remove the rear hatch to see if it helps.

 

[oldnslo]

Mudd
Which way is the engine trying to move air? Typically it flows from flywheel side to crank shaft out put side. For best effect I believe you will need to match this flow direction so the two fans aren’t fighting each other.

Hope you get the heat issue resolved.

 

[Rich B1]

I am close to buying a mini, been looking at a lot of pictures and reading online commentary. This heat thing seems common, adding fans seems common.

But has anyone tried a simple air dam between the outside air intake and the hot side of the engine? I suspect you are getting a significant amount of recirculation and little actual air flow. Some old mud flaps or floor mats would make organ donors, fan side of engine should be as blocked from the hot side as possible, just cut a hole in the air dam to allow cool air in from the outside. That should force the engine to draw only outside air.

 

[Muddernuker]

Mudd
Which way is the engine trying to move air? Typically it flows from flywheel side to crank shaft out put side. For best effect I believe you will need to match this flow direction so the two fans aren’t fighting each other.

Hope you get the heat issue resolved.

Good question, will look at the air flow direction and do the exhaust modification to see if it helps plus taking the rear hatch off.

 

[Muddernuker]

Here is a picture of the engine compartment. The photo above is from what the seller sent me. As you can see the exhaust flex pipe runs right in from of the valve cover. I disconnected the pipe and took off the rear hatch. Now the problem is that it won't start. I used starting fluid and it ruins for a second or two, so it has spark. I checked the spark plug and it looks good, not fowled. I disconnected the fuel line after the fuel pump and it is dry. I can hear the pump but no flow after the pump. The line before the pump had gas so I'm suspecting the pump has an obstruction or maybe not primed. I checked fuel level and it has about 3/4 tank. The only thing I haven't done is top off oil in case the kill switch is not letting the engine run. Oil level is slightly above the half mark. If it is that, how come it fires up for a few seconds? Unless that is how it works. I may take the side covers and inspect each fuel line section for any obstruction from the manufacturing process. I've seen it before that when they drill holes on the gas tank, the shavings are left in there. If not of that works, I'm running out of ideas.

 

[Muddernuker]

Good news! I traced down the no fuel issue! I bypassed the fuel filter and it fired up right away. It's been running for 45 minutes so far and not a hiccup. Going to order an online glass see through filter in place of the screw on canister filter until I figure out what is the issue with the filter assembly.

 

[caleblogan]

Good news! I traced down the no fuel issue! I bypassed the fuel filter and it fired up right away. It's been running for 45 minutes so far and not a hiccup. Going to order an online glass see through filter in place of the screw on canister filter until I figure out what is the issue with the filter assembly.

I have the same mini. I have answers for you. The fuel is being vaporized in the fuel filter because of the heat from the engine not being fully duckted away because the fuel tank and air lovers are removed. I also turned my hyd cooler around and lifted it 3 in so the cool air can be pulled into the engine and pushed away towards the pump. Then I added 10mm thick firewall insulation everywhere under there. This weekend I will be putting exhaust wrap on the muffler and flex pipe and installing a 12in fan pushing air out the pump side. The fix the fuel problem you have to remove the right side silver trim and move fuel pump down there where the fuel exits the plastic tank. Dm me if you have any questions or issues

 

[D'oh]

Mudd,
Out of curiosity what is sensing the heat and shutting the engine off?

Temp sensor in or on the engine

Temp sensor in the engine compartment

Etc..

I suspect, the Shut Down was plain Over Heat Seizure. The Engine is in need of an overhaul, but Parts are easy to come by for a B&S XR XR 13.5 | Briggs & Stratton

These Mini's run Hot! Real Hot with the EPA engine stuffed in them. Possibly even with the Factory Chinese 1 Banger Diesel KOOP.

Your Rippa is a Nice looking Hoe but the Cladding is only adding to the Heat Problem, my JF Industrial JF12/Agrotk QH12, also runs real Hot, even up here in Canada.

First thing, after checking for Compression, is Lose some Cladding, Wrap the Exhaust with Heat Shielding, Add a Hydraulic Cooler, if it doesn't already have one and a Filter for that matter.

I have 60 hours on mine, love the unit. Has saved Many Shovel Fulls. But they do have their limitations. Heat being the Biggest One I have encountered.