New L2501 advice needed

[goeduck]

I live on sloped property and using my Kubota that has a loader can be dicey at times. This year I brought a small 4WD tractor with no loader onto the property from another property to pull trailers, etc. just so I don't have to worry about tipping when sideways on the slope. When using the loader tractor, I always keep the loader as low to the ground as possible as well as the back weight. Taking the grapple (or whatever is on the front) off helps if you are not using it. Planning the loader work to be up and down the slope (not sideways) helps as well.

 

[4570Man]

While true that conditions are an important (and unforgiving) variable, I would not operate any standard scut, cut , or full size tractor sideways on a 30 degree slope. Ever.
As far as flat ground... I have witnessed a tractor almost roll over on flat ground with the variable of one medium sized rock and careless loader operation.

I agree a 30 degree hill isn’t safe operating conditions but if the hill was perfectly smooth and the loader and implements were set basically on the ground it wouldn’t roll. Take it to a more reasonable angle of 15 degrees. That would be relatively safe but you could easily roll a machine at 15 degrees with improper use. The point remains that a measurement of the hill isn’t a very good indicator of safety.

 

[needmoredirt]

I believe I understand the basics, implements, safety with the SSQA loader.

Seems a 6' box blade (can't go 7') would be my first implement, versatile piece, 1,000# that I need to find yet, and a ballast box JIC (cheap enough - amazon?). Most show cutting a road, drive, path etc w/BB, my 1st project does not include any of these, ATM, or ever is my guess.

My thought was a rear Quick Attach (harbor Freight?) would buy me ease of swapping (obvious), seems no gain in fulcrum since anyone has mentioned the advantage of such.

Paid for a SS and dump truck, 100 (???) loads of dirt, heavy stuff is done, gives me a better foundation to polish on (I hope).

I've got a valley (eroding, along w/a couple other places on the property!), about 50X100', 15-20 degrees both sides. Hard to even stay in the seat of the ZT, poor tree(s) roots exposed, wouldn't dream of running the 2501 anywhere except down the middle to work on the next project (only route).

No idea about what's the best way to fill the valley, seems like an elementary first project, good learning experience.

Would it be better if I move to "projects" forums for those details?

Best place/makes/models/$ for implements (I prefer not burning time looking for used that may or may not exist locally)?

 

[2manyrocks]

If you get a decently heavy box blade and put rimguard in the rear tires, you may not need a ballast box.

Get yourself a long pry bar like a rock bar used for pounding rock out of post holes, and you can leverage a lot of implements right where they need to be to connect.

I suspect facebook marketplace may be the best source for finding used implements these days unless you have some local advertising website that is popular.

Have you already bought a L2501? If you haven't, a power trac PT425 might be something to consider for its ability to handle a slope up to 20 degrees.

 

[needmoredirt]

Yes, bought. What is a PT425? googling now...

 

[needmoredirt]

Another machine, if I'm understanding?

Nice, not happening.

 

[Carl_NH]

Pictures would be great to see what you are dealing with "cuurent state" then what you want to achieve in the future,

BTW a box blade is great on flatish ground - not so good on slopes - look on CL or FB marketplace for a rear blade - $5-600 is typical for a 6'

 

[2manyrocks]

T8 Class PT 425

If you could post pic of what you want to fill in, might get more helpful suggestions.

 

[needmoredirt]

Not sure if a pic is worth a thousand words. have more if needed, this is the easy part, need some guidance for sure...

 

[needmoredirt]

Another...

 

[2manyrocks]

Looks like an area that water flows through. Isn't that the underlying problem?

 

[needmoredirt]

Looks like it's the cause along with neglect, once adjusted, maintain with well kept vegetation, should be good?

 

[goeduck]

No disrespect, but I am not seeing any significant slope. The slight amount I see could be worked with by positioning when using the loader. Looks like you have a nice piece of property, very nice.

 

[needmoredirt]

@goeduck - None taken and thanks.

Pictures are terrible to get an idea - everyone that's looked, says "yeech, no fun". Will admit, it was far worse, over 1/2 acre+, 2 days of skid steer and dump truck helped (more than any tractor could do in a couple days).

Still today...

1) some areas can't be mowed w/ZT
2) some, I have to mow downhill only (never up - learned that when it wheely'd
3) some I'm fighting to stay seated/back end sliding downhill even when dry.
4) erosion from lack of vegetation

I'd never let the wife mow w/new badboy ZT, even if she would.

 

[2manyrocks]

If it has turf tires, there are some other tires that are supposed to do better on hills.

 

[needmoredirt]

R4's. bro tek 3" spacers to be ordered for sure Bro-Tek

Thinking a 5' BB would be better to fit in tight spaces, could go 6' if I could find either that weighed close to 600/700# and not spend $1.5K

May just get a cheap Ballast box and load w/bricks if I can hit the weight (2/3rd's of loader capacity I think)

 

[Fallon]

I believe I understand the basics, implements, safety with the SSQA loader.

Seems a 6' box blade (can't go 7') would be my first implement, versatile piece, 1,000# that I need to find yet, and a ballast box JIC (cheap enough - amazon?). Most show cutting a road, drive, path etc w/BB, my 1st project does not include any of these, ATM, or ever is my guess.

My thought was a rear Quick Attach (harbor Freight?) would buy me ease of swapping (obvious), seems no gain in fulcrum since anyone has mentioned the advantage of such.

Paid for a SS and dump truck, 100 (???) loads of dirt, heavy stuff is done, gives me a better foundation to polish on (I hope).

I've got a valley (eroding, along w/a couple other places on the property!), about 50X100', 15-20 degrees both sides. Hard to even stay in the seat of the ZT, poor tree(s) roots exposed, wouldn't dream of running the 2501 anywhere except down the middle to work on the next project (only route).

No idea about what's the best way to fill the valley, seems like an elementary first project, good learning experience.

Would it be better if I move to "projects" forums for those details?

Best place/makes/models/$ for implements (I prefer not burning time looking for used that may or may not exist locally)?

Tractor Attachments And Skid Steer Attachments For Any Tractor Or Skid Steer is a TBN sponsor. They make good impliments & ship. They also have great demo videos that you can learn a lot from. They talk about impliment design, build quality & how to use them. LandPride is good & now owned by Kubota. Even your local farm store will be ok (probably King Kutter or Tartar Gate, usually rebranded as the store house brand). They tend to be a bit lighter & cheaper, but perfectly Ok for homeowner type usage. My King Kutter tiller is 8? years old & running fine. My KK 72" box blade got sold after a few years, I replaced it with a 20 year old worn but super heavy Gannon box blade. THe KK box was ok, if a bit light. But the new to me Gannon was super heavy.

I highly recomend skipping the ballast box for now. Just get impliments & use them. If you need compact ballast later, get one then.

I use a harbor freight Quick Hitch. It makes hitching faster & easier if you have TnT. If you dont have Top & Tilt cylinders, im not sure how much it helps. It pushes impliments back 6" or so, which reduces lift capacity a little bit due to worse leverage. It makes connecting a PTO shaft harder, as it blocks off access a bit. You also are suppose to put $35ish bushing sets on all your impliments. I still use mine, but a QH isn't the magic bullet you hope it is to make hitching trivial. It does help under many circumstances, but it's still fiddly at times & has a few drawbacks.p&.

 

[2manyrocks]

R4's. bro tek 3" spacers to be ordered for sure Bro-Tek

Thinking a 5' BB would be better to fit in tight spaces, could go 6' if I could find either that weighed close to 600/700# and not spend $1.5K

May just get a cheap Ballast box and load w/bricks if I can hit the weight (2/3rd's of loader capacity I think)

I'm sorry I wasn't clear, but I was asking if you have turf tires on the Bad Boy zero turn? Turf tires may not be the best option for mowing slopes.

 

[needmoredirt]

Yep, turf tires on the ZT. For a lawn mowing machine, if they aren't gentle, something isn't right IMHO.

Off to EA now...

 

[needmoredirt]

Is it me, or does 325/350# sound weak for box blade/ballast?