New here w/ Ford 861

[jeff pk]

Check out the pictures. The parallel one can't contact the threads except right at the end, and then the only real contact is that one corner on the end that's off parallel by the tilt off the file; and in the perpendicular one, the file teeth don't cut that way (if I run it around the rim).

 

[Soundguy]

i'm not sure what your issue is.. I've used your pic #2 before.. though i go from the backside with the pan off. generally all tooth damage is at the tip, not base anyway..


soundguy

 

[jeff pk]

You must have the better file that works both ways---mine just files if you run it lengthwise along the threads:confused2: no matter though, the new/old pan is on a truck somewhere making its way to me. On further examination of the existing pan I notice identations on both sides of the plug opening lip---like someone jacked up the engine from that spot. This deformed the threads enough to mess up the plug action IMO...

 

[Soundguy]

very common to see a crushed up oil pan at the base. either someone fgot it high centered.. or jacked on it.

I repalced the pan on my 660 due to that same issue.

my file works when you run it lengthwise along the thread. OD or ID makes no difference.

 

[Florida_Farmer]

Soundguy -
Where are you in Central Florida?

 

[Soundguy]

2 closest major cities are ocal and orlando.. I'm between them. bunch of lil popcorn cities scattered all around.. wildwood, belleview, summerfield, lady lake, leesburg, weirsdale, eustis, pedro, umatilla, altoona, crystal river..e tc. all them are within 1hr drive, with ovcala at about 30-40m and orlando 45m-1hr if i hit the turnpike...

 

[jeff pk]

Hi Soundguy,

Got the new/old pan today! Threads are good, was pushed in a bit around the plug opening---hammered it out, looks ok. Lip is different---with the indentations (see picture). Previously you said to put a light smear of gasket goop on the gasket to hold it in place when installing. Should I fill those indentations with the stuff, or just put it on the raised surface? Just one side or both? I'm using the orange hi-temp stuff.

This is working out to be the longest oil change in history.
Thank you for all the advice.

 

[Soundguy]

i never use rtv.. permatex #2 non hardening is what I would use, and I would apply a smear to the gasket and use that to stick it to the pan.. leave the other side dry.. that will keep the gasket in place while you attach it.

rtv will actually PROMOTE leaking in these situations.

don't overtorque the pan bolts either.. that supple cork gsket should just compress a bit and then go. once youve ran and warmed it.. check the bolts.. might need a lil 1/4 twist.. etc.. then you should be good.

 

[jeff pk]

Okay. I'll get some #2. Packed the pump with vasoline. I'll post back when I get it going---hopefully tomorrow. Still need to time the distributor...

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. save that rtv for something else.. you won't regret the #2. the rtv will actually lift from the metal from oil residuals, and make the gasket want to push out the side under compression, kinda like extruding out.. also makes a capilary surface to make a weeping oil leak, unlike the #2 non hardening, or the cork top..

 

[jeff pk]

Good deal Soundguy! Started up after I moved the distributor CC 1/4 turn. I had it set up to where I thought the points were just opening on #1 TDC, but it wouldn't quite start until I turned it. I don't have a good timing light that works well on 6v, and when I was spinning the motor by hand all I saw was a punch mark on the flywheel that seemed to match up with TDC on #1. No scale like the book shows. So I'm a bit lost as far as proper timing---if you know any tricks there...

But the good news is that the new oil gauge reads a steady 40-50 PSI, and absolutely no leaks on the pan or plug. So I'm making progess. I can't thank you enough for the help.

 

[Soundguy]

6v? timeing light? why use 6v.. hook it to a 12v bat... it's just a blinking flashlight with an impulse pickup...


besides.. you can virtually time these babies by ear and playing with the throttle.. etc..

 

[jeff pk]

My ear's not that refined. Still, I'm think that's all I have to work with as I don't think the flywheel is marked. What do you listen for?

 

[Soundguy]

flywheel should be marked.. just look thru the teardrop opening.. might need to bar it over by hand to find the marks, then rub chalk over them, or my favorite.. whiteout.. etc.

hard to 'describe' timing by ear.. but you can use clues like starter drag.. if too advanced.. starter will drag.. etc..

 

[jeff pk]

Not sure what starter drag is. I'll try the stobe again when it's dark---too much sun now. Two other observations: got a new gas cap because the old one was worn out, and the new one is letting a lot of pressure build in the tank. When I remove it---big pressure relief. Is this normal, and could too much pressure cause it to surge. That's the other obsevation---it won't run steady. There's a surge at higher RPM's that is observable at the governor lever.

 

[Soundguy]

it's probably vacume, rather than pressure.. though could be pressure if you don't have heat shields in place and are getting some boil.


hunting is generally 1 of 2 thigs.. 1, fuel obstruction / starvation... if tuggin ghte choke helps the hunt.. then it's starving.. a vacume in the tank will do this.. loosen the cap..e tc.. otherwise.. it's a misadjusted gov spring / linkage.. or worn gov.

for the gas cap.. drill a hole thru it, then install a pop rivit in the hole.. make it wher ethe pop rivit is loose and can jiggle.. but not fall out.. that will let air go in and out.. but keep a 'sploosh' of gas in when sloshing..

do make sur ethe heat shields are in place

 

[jeff pk]

I don't believe I have a heat shield on it. Nothing but tank above the muffler...And just the front and back tank supports...

Put the old cap on and it seems steadier, so hopefully that was it. Need to find a heat shield or shields?

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. there is a flat panel that goes above the muffler.. ther eis also a side flap that should be ont he fuel tank support..

 

[Soundguy]

ps.. you can make that above muffler shield from roof tin, if needbe.. I have....

look these pics over.

I made 1 of the shields.

notic e the panel atop the muffler, and behind the elbow.. can make out baffles byt hte elbow if you look hard.

one of I made.. the other 2 are originals..

 

[jeff pk]

That's funny, I was just out looking over some roofing tin...

Maybe boiling fuel was the cause of the surging/sputtering I had after 90 minutes of mowing last week??? That would be fortuitous---simple fix...