New garage time!

[fatjay]

All looks nice and straight..nice job !! Yes, laying block will make you a old man quickly. I have a Lowes mixer i use for big jobs like this. Is there any reason you didn't put re-bar in the footer sticking up to reinforce the blocks ? Keep up the good work !

With the blocks on the footer, tied to the 6" slab, tied to the 3 course of block on top, I don't think it will go anywhere. And I am considering changing the first 12' floor to be all block walls, then the top be 2x8's, with a 2x3 eve on front and side. That way I can put recessed lights in. That will also transition from the lower stucco to the upper siding.

 

[747driver]

On the topic of YouTube craftsman, I have been following and learning from 'Next Level Carpentry'. This guy explains things well and is also a perfectionist. Great tips on cabinetry and keeping everything true and square and how to be efficient with repetition in his small and modest shop. He is not a tool ***** either which is refreshing.

Thanks for the info. Will have to check this channel out.....!!

 

[747driver]

Had to stop and visualize what you are doing ! I would go with the 2x8 walls. Easier to finish and insulate the interior walls. If you go with block then it might be more of a pain to insulate the walls ? I really like using engineered floor joist, as they eliminate the need for that dreaded center post ! Have a fun day !!!

 

[fatjay]

Had to stop and visualize what you are doing ! I would go with the 2x8 walls. Easier to finish and insulate the interior walls. If you go with block then it might be more of a pain to insulate the walls ? I really like using engineered floor joist, as they eliminate the need for that dreaded center post ! Have a fun day !!!

It's 12" block up to the floor, then 8" block above floor level. I'm looking forward to 8" block, moving those 12" blocks is getting old fast. There will be no center post, I'm looking at I joists with LVL's.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've never used 12 inch blocks, just 8 inch ones.

Will you fill them with concrete when the wall is built?

 

[fatjay]

I've never used 12 inch blocks, just 8 inch ones.

Will you fill them with concrete when the wall is built?

Yes, along with drilling for rebar into the concrete. Since the building is so tall, it calls for 12" block. Regular 1 story buildings are 8". I also have 2x8's for the walls where normal is 2x4's or 2x6's for insulation.

 

[747driver]

I assume your concrete floor will come up to where the 12" block' transitions to the 8" block. It should lay on that 4" lip ?

 

[fatjay]

I assume your concrete floor will come up to where the 12" block' transitions to the 8" block. It should lay on that 4" lip ?

The top of the 12” block is the bottom of the floor, then the floor will come up 6” and held back by the 8” block. The floor will be 4” higher than the highest point.

 

[fatjay]

3 course all the way around except for the front so i can still get in and out with the bobcat. Next is foam insulation board on the walls, one course of 8's, then stone, then foam insulation board, then steel mesh, then pex tubing, then pour concrete slab. Rebar is in place so i'll get a pallet of concrete to pour down the inside of the block. These days are exhausting.

 

[ovrszd]

In my area the pex is laid on the pink board and stapled in place. Then rebar is used and set on chairs above the pex.

I'm not sure how the pour crew can step on the pex without pushing the steel mesh down against the pink board where it does no good. Also additionally risking puncturing the pex pushing it against the steel?

Anxious to see the area when it's ready for concrete.

Thanks for the updates and pics!!!

 

[EddieWalker]

There is a lot that is going into creating this building!!! Since I've never seen a building done like you are doing it, which I'm guess in a regional thing. But just to be sure, is this a common form of construction in your area of the country? Do they build houses this way if there isn't a basement? All I know is slab foundations. If you need more strength for the walls, you just dig the footers deeper and wider.

 

[fatjay]

There is a lot that is going into creating this building!!! Since I've never seen a building done like you are doing it, which I'm guess in a regional thing. But just to be sure, is this a common form of construction in your area of the country? Do they build houses this way if there isn't a basement? All I know is slab foundations. If you need more strength for the walls, you just dig the footers deeper and wider.

It's how my house is built even with a basement. Poured footer with rebar to give something solid for the block to sit on, 3 course of block to bring it up to level, slab poured, and since I'm doing stick construction, 3 course of block on the top side, then 2x8" plate horizontal on the top course of block that the walls will sit on. If it wasn't stick, the block would just keep going up, which is how my house is built. Block construction is slower, but a lot cheaper than just pouring endless concrete.

 

[Macinnis]

For me, I'm sticking a screw driver into the dirt, pulling a steel tape out from that screw driver to where the next corner is and putting another screw driver into the ground there. I have one straight wall that's all done. Then from each of those screw drivers I measure out how far I need to go and place a screw driver there. Once I have my 4 corners, I measure diagonally for square and adjust until it's square. I set my forms off of those screw drivers and then dig my footings with the forms in place. For me, this is fast, accurate and easy.

This is exactly how my Morton crew did it. It took them maybe 5 minutes to lay out a 60x60 building.

 

[fatjay]

Another day, back wall up. Tomorrow is 90 blocks, big day. Bobcat has paid for itself 10x already, moving those blocks would be a killer otherwise. And since it's so maneuverable I can put the blocks exactly where I need them.

 

[dragoneggs]

Great shot of the plot and progress! :thumbsup: Must've been approaching 'golden hour' and photographers call it. Nice lighting.

 

[fatjay]

Tore the old fence down to put gravel in. Will need a way for the concrete truck to get to the back and my best idea is to pull along side, since the chutes are only 15' and once steel is in wheeling concrete will be difficult. Installed anchor as well. Mixed up 40+ bags of cement to put down the holes then pushed 18" J bolts in. Those will hold down the sill plates. Picked up 6' all thread as well, that'll go in tomorrow. They will be all the way down, encased with concrete leaving only a foot exposed. They will be joined with other all thread from the second floor, anchoring the second floor with the footer.

 

[dragoneggs]

Wow... lots of progress. Is it code that you have to go so deep with the all thread? Seems at some point in length, it is a waste.

 

[fatjay]

Wow... lots of progress. Is it code that you have to go so deep with the all thread? Seems at some point in length, it is a waste.

The concrete has to go down through all 6 layers of block. The bottom 3 layers are lipped under the concrete floor. And it's $6 per rod and $4.50 of concrete. I have a 30' high wall 44' long that's going to catch wind, even if the upper floors are heavy i'd still like everything properly anchored.

 

[EddieWalker]

How thick will the concrete be?

 

[747driver]

Lots of progress and looks nice ! Still don't understand the thinking of not anchoring the wall to the footer. You have the walls all tied together but then the walls are not tied to the footer, unless i missed you doing that with rebar. Never have seen a block wall not tied to the footer without rebar.