New Everlast 160STH unpacked

/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #1  

daugen

Epic Contributor
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
22,885
Location
New Hope PA
Tractor
in between now
P1010932 (2).jpgP1010933.jpgP1010935 (2).jpgDecent no-name blowmolded case, packed full of stuff, all seemed to be of commercial quality.
The unit was electric green, in perfect condition and packed without incident. Nice carry handle with the straps, that might
have helped UPS not destroy it.

Foot pedal did not come with the unit, likely is shipped separately, or it will certainly be in my case since unless I'm blind as a bat I don't see any
foot pedal in that pile of accessories.

Instruction manual is pretty marginal and flimsy, and I'm still not sure what this unit pulls on 220 from the wall at max output.
Could it really take 90 amps to generate 160?
Hopefully there will be some kind of instruction manual online for it.

I'll fire it up when I know how to do so safely...
Drew
 

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/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #2  
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #3  
Could you take another picture of the back of the unit, of the data plate? it is all blurry and I cant read it..It will tell you the current ratings.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Could you take another picture of the back of the unit, of the data plate? it is all blurry and I cant read it..It will tell you the current ratings.

sorry, those pics were pretty bad. And yes, all the info is back there, someone will need to translate for me.

actually the amp draw looks easy, 27 on average and 34 max on 220V?
 

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/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #5  
That machine has basically identical specs to my Miller Maxstar 150STH. Given that at discount the Miller with remote goes for about $1800, I'd say you got yourself a bargain. Just add a remote (necessary for TIG), a tank of argon, and make up a pigtail to allow you to choose either 110 or 220v and you are all set.

150amps at 220V is good for basically anything you would do with a 1/8" rod and the 90A at 110v is adequate for most 3/32" rods. (except 6010 which doesn't do well with small inverter welders)
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#6  
two questions please:
where is the stopping point where 110V 90amps just won't make a decent weld, and higher amp
on 220V is a best practices choice.

Why does the voltage spec drop on this unit as the load goes to 100% duty? An issue with heat buildup?
I only took "shocks for jocks" in college, so my memory of little electrical pictogram meanings is really shaky.
Looks like Tig and Stick broken out by 110V and 220V, just the voltage makes me curious.

Tell me what it all means please, including the meaning of life...:D
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #7  
two questions please:
where is the stopping point where 110V 90amps just won't make a decent weld, and higher amp
on 220V is a best practices choice.

Why does the voltage spec drop on this unit as the load goes to 100% duty? An issue with heat buildup?
I only took "shocks for jocks" in college, so my memory of little electrical pictogram meanings is really shaky.
Looks like Tig and Stick broken out by 110V and 220V, just the voltage makes me curious.

Tell me what it all means please, including the meaning of life...:D

In my experience 1/8" welding rods are too big for 110V use on my equivalent dual voltage Maxstar. All 3/32nd rods I have used (6011, 6013, 7014) have done fine with 110V. If you want to practice starts, you might even get some 1/16 rod so you can experience too little, just right and too much power for starting a weld.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #8  
I will give it a try.. might not get every thing right, but here goes.

Left to right top to bottom. it is a single phase device whose output is DC

Tig mode. DC at 5 amp arc voltage 10.2 volts at 160 amps arc voltage is 16.4 volts
SMAW mode on 220Volts 160 amps 35 percent duty cyle 130 amps is 60 % duty cycle and 100 amps out is 100 percent duty cycle.
arc voltage is 16.4 volts at 160 amps 15.2 volts at 130 amps and 14 volts at 100 amps
SMAW open circuit volts 70

Tig mode 110 volts running 5 amps arc volts are 10.2 at 90 amps it would be 13.6volts
SMAW mode open circuit voltage 70 volts.
SMAW mode 110 volts 90 amps is 35% duty cycle and 13.6 arc volts 55amps is 60% duty cycle and 12.2 arc volts at 30 amps it is 100% duty cycle at 11.2 arc volts

at 110 volts maximum current is 36.4amps (better have a healthy 110 volt breaker)
at 220 volts maximum current is 34 amps maximum
The other current rating showing 29.2 amps and 27.3 amps I cannot read the subscript but I take that to be "nominal" ratings but not the maximum rating. If you can tell me what the blurry subscript is maybe I can figure it out. So you would need at least a 40 amp breaker and I would put in a 50 amp with number 6 wire to the outlet for future use. You could get by with a 40 amp and number 8 wire. You could skin by if you had to, with 30 amp breaker and number 10 wire, but dont expect to run it at max without breaker tripping.
 
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/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#9  
You could skin by if you had to

But I don't... and not interested in making toaster elements, so I'll get a 50A outlet installed when they bring service in.
I could put one in my home garage also, but kinda wondering about what welding does on top of nice seal coated macadam driveway?
Likely nothing good.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #10  
You could skin by if you had to

But I don't... and not interested in making toaster elements, so I'll get a 50A outlet installed when they bring service in.
I could put one in my home garage also, but kinda wondering about what welding does on top of nice seal coated macadam driveway?
Likely nothing good.

Well I have never tried it... I weld over 0 to 3/4 gravel, it makes some mess.. I don't think you would like the looks of in your nice driveway
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #11  
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#12  
for an extra fifty bucks, I definitely wanted a foot pedal/treadle and paid for it.
I think they must source it differently but it would have been nice to confirm that with me, like
box one of two.

I had a nice chat with Mark at Everlast on this, I'm confident it will show up shortly. And since I understand it's only for TIG,
it will be some time before I venture into that. Thanks Steve.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #13  
Drew you can have him ship that pedal off at my place... for now:).. I sure wish I could put a pedal on my PA160, and a built in gas solenoid, and HF start while I was at it.. as you can tell I am jealous as heck of your new toy. Drew you are started down a long road, with many twists and turns, but you can have fun with the journey, I wish I was there to show you a few things, but you get the joy of making your own mistakes and learning from them... I sure wish you good luck on your new welding endeavors .:thumbsup:

James K0UA
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #15  
Well I have never tried it... I weld over 0 to 3/4 gravel, it makes some mess.. I don't think you would like the looks of in your nice driveway

But why weld on the driveway? Get a welding table and only small sparks will ever reach the driveway. I actually use one of those portable scaffold rigs on wheels. Allows me to set the height either to sit or more often to stand while welding outdoors.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #16  
Drew, I may have neglected to tell you to download the US manual online...here: http://www.everlastgenerators.com/downloads/PowerArc-Series-140ST-160-200.pdf

The reason the voltage drops is because it lowers as the amps are lowered and is the point at which the duty cycle coincides...Remember you don't weld with just amps, you weld with volts...well...really its watts that you weld with (VxA).
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #17  
The foot pedal you are looking at is the "premium" US made pedal from SSC controls. That pedal costs us a lot more than the factory pedal that is shipped to you. It probably got separated. If you don't get it, I'll see if I can get hold of the tracking. The pedal that should have shipped to you looks like this one at the top of the page: Welding Supplies | Welder | Welding Machine

The pedals are different as they have different potentiometer values.
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#18  
But why weld on the driveway? Get a welding table and only small sparks will ever reach the driveway. I actually use one of those portable scaffold rigs on wheels. Allows me to set the height either to sit or more often to stand while welding outdoors.

With herniated discs in my neck and lower back, doing a lot of bending over is a no go for me. so your idea of an adjustable work stand sounds super. I think ergonomics would be important here in order to hold the weld straight and consistent. I'm likely to do much of my welding sitting down on an adjustable chair, so I'll work on making this comfortable, or I won't weld as much.

as far as the driveway, i'd have to lay something down on it. At the farm, I've got inch plus gravel to work on, no problem.
But I think of the gasoline and propane tanks in my garage and all the other things that don't like fire and maybe until I know what I'm doing I'll stay on gravel...I'll put on a show for the neighbors when I'm not making Frankenwelds.

I've been watching videos like mad: like this one, can't believe this guy has made 500 videos. But I found this video well recorded; I could actually see what was going on. Must take an interesting camera setting.

How To Weld: Stick Weld Troubleshooting - YouTube
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Mark,
thanks, I figure it just didn't get in the box, and I'm sure the "regular" foot pedal will do just fine.
Those pedals are surprisingly expensive, not much to them...and at least a fifty dollar swing in price, and the "cheap" ones
aren't particularly cheap.

and of course things make infinitely more sense with the manual, and you likely did tell me btw.
all's well ,need to finish my outfitting and reading and wait for a warmer day, which actually today is going up into the fifties after five inches of snow yesterday, but I will wait for a nice dry day to press the button for the first time.
Drew
 
/ New Everlast 160STH unpacked #20  
Mark,
thanks, I figure it just didn't get in the box, and I'm sure the "regular" foot pedal will do just fine.
Those pedals are surprisingly expensive, not much to them...and at least a fifty dollar swing in price, and the "cheap" ones
aren't particularly cheap.

and of course things make infinitely more sense with the manual, and you likely did tell me btw.
all's well ,need to finish my outfitting and reading and wait for a warmer day, which actually today is going up into the fifties after five inches of snow yesterday, but I will wait for a nice dry day to press the button for the first time.
Drew

Don't complain about the Everlast remote cost until you price the Miller version! Several hundred$.
 
 
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