Need woodworking info

[2manyrocks]

Cowboy357, my thinking was that this is a large cut to make in end grain with a router. I think even a high HP plunge router cutting this size with a sharp bit is going to be a headache. And then you have the problem of needing to use a guide to keep the router cut centered in the 2x4.

Another possible idea would be to weld either a section of channel to the bottom of the pipe or a single tab, and then bolt or screw the channel or tab to the 2x4. Or just use a section of angle like in the photo.

 

[MarkV]

Talley, do you already have the pipe for the rail? I am still not understanding why you would not just use standard 11/4 round wood rail stock with the stand off brackets you see in so many basement stair applications. I may be wrong but I find it hard to believe that 1 1/2 pipe would be cheaper.

Nice of you to try and help out. Is this person a vet? Maybe the local vet groups could offer some help.

MarkV

 

[carpenter383]

Do they make a hole saw that will cut through 4 inches of wood?

Johndeere4300
That looks real neat. I wish I was able to go through the 2" side of the 2x4 instead of the 4" side.

Therios Pendragon
That is a very clever mounting system that you have.

I'm waiting for my buddy to get back in touch with me about the router bit and router. He is out of town today.

Like someone else said I'd use wood hand rail, You can get the D shaped kind with a flat side on the bottom. Either lay the flat side on top the 2x4's or use the brackets. It will take a few more 2x4 posts for support.... BTW a 2x4 is 1-1/2 in. by 3-1/2 in.

 

[tallyho8]

I have already built the ramp. The wood alone cost me over $300. I am trying to build the railings inexpensively. I am planning on using 1 1/2" gray pvc electrical conduit for railing. I need 100' of railing and this only costs $30. Plus it is the perfect size for him to hold and is comfortable in his hand and is weatherproof.

The cheapest round wood railing with the flat bottom I could find was $400 and the 32 metal brackets to hold it were about $150. The cheapest 1 1/4" wood dowel I can find is $1 a foot ($100) and only comes in 4' lengths.

If this was a permanent structure for my own home, cost would not be such a concern, but since this is a temporary structure I am donating, I must be a little conservative.

I could just nail the pvc to the top of the 2x4 but I was trying to make it look decent and professional but not so complicated that it would take me a week to build.

Years ago I did some volunteer work for a charity and it was my job to seek donations. After a while business owners would run and hide when they saw me coming and friends would avoid me like the plague. Since then I have refused to ever ask anybody for anything and seeking donations is out of the question.

With all the experience that my fellow TBNers have in all fields I knew that you would be able to give me some advice to help with this project and I thank all of you for your helpful suggestions.

 

[2manyrocks]

I definitely would not nail pvc to the 2x4. It's just too likely to pull out, and I wouldn't trust PVC as a rail material. If the person started to fall, I think it would give way. Then your charity activity can turn into a liability claim.

You might price metal top rail used in cyclone fencing. You could drill a hole through it and lag screw it into the top of the 2x4. Not pretty and the bolt head will stick up. But more sturdy than a nailed PVC pipe.

They also make a bolt for tubing that has a curved head on it. You typically see these kind of bolts on lawnmowers with folding handles. You could drill a perpendicular hole in the 2x4 to attach the top rail, and then a horizontal hole in the 2x4 to attach the nut to the end of the bolt. It won't stick up quite as badly as a lag bolt, but I'm not sure it would be that much of an improvement over a lag bolt.

 

[tallyho8]

I'm not going to nail the pvc to the post. I have rigged up some metal clamps that will go around it neatly and securely without putting holes in the pvc.

I had considered fence top rail but found it was too small to grasp firmly and way more expensive than the schedule 40 pvc and it also failed my strength test.

Not the most precision test, but I placed a length of metal top rail over two bricks 3 feet apart and jumped on it and it bent right down to the ground and was no longer usable.

I did the same thing with the pvc and it just bounced me back up with no damage. I am sure the 1 1/2" schedule 40 electrical pvc is much harder to bend than the metal top rail.

It is also very hard to break. I had a 1" pvc water pipe that ran through my barn where the horses could reach it and they broke it several times. I enclosed the water pipe with a piece of 1 1/2" pvc electrical pipe and clamped it securely and the horses haven't managed to break it yet.

I really appreciate everyone's suggestions. I have to build the railing Wednesday and haven't reached a final decision on how to do it yet.

 

[2manyrocks]

http://www.rcrv.org/WRAP/rampguidelines.pdf just a generic ramp how to.

Most of the DIY on line resources I looked at have a wooden rail turned edge wise.

 

[tallyho8]

Thanks for the ramp guidelines. Most ramps have a very generic structure as they are designed for one size fits all especially when installed in public buildings. This includes people using a wheelchair or powered wheelchair, a walker, a cane, or their own limited power.

Since this ramp is designed only for one specific individual, it can be customized to fit this person and designed to their specific wants. This person uses a cane and has very limited use of his legs but has good hand and arm control and can use a ramp easily if the railings are the right height and the right shape and diameter for him to grasp firmly. For whatever reason he absolutely refuses to use a wheelchair and fulfilling his desires is most important to me.

It really makes you feel how lucky you are when you hear another person say their greatest wish is just to be able to get out of their house and into their yard and back.

 

[JohnDeere4300]

It really makes you feel how lucky you are when you hear another person say their greatest wish is just to be able to get out of their house and into their yard and back.

Yea we should be thankful to be able to get outside!

Dudley,

Your a fine person for working so hard at trying to help this person!

In the winter I use my equipment to clear snow for the elderly and don't charge them anything.... I always try & help everyone that I can.

When I was a young boy, my grandmother told me that I should do a good deed for someone everyday.... and I have tried my best to do that.

One of these days when you need help, you will get it because you have tried to help others.

 

[cowboy357]

Cowboy357, my thinking was that this is a large cut to make in end grain with a router. I think even a high HP plunge router cutting this size with a sharp bit is going to be a headache. And then you have the problem of needing to use a guide to keep the router cut centered in the 2x4.

Another possible idea would be to weld either a section of channel to the bottom of the pipe or a single tab, and then bolt or screw the channel or tab to the 2x4. Or just use a section of angle like in the photo.

Your Probablly right 2manyrocks , After reading more of what tallyho8 is trying to do it would be very time consuming as well . looked good on paper though .


To bad Your not closer tallyho8 , I,ve got about 400 feet of the Underground conduit like Your talking about I no longer need . I had trenched & buryed it for an electric supply line for My metal building before checking in to what I should use . The Power company Made Me dig it back up & use 3 inch instead & thats not cheap at all .

Best of luck getting it worked out & kudo,s to You for doing it. Bob