Need to install new 48" snowblade to my compact greymarket tractor

ampa · Sep 30, 2010

Thanks Iplayfarmer,maybe someone with one ofthese off road ATV's could point me to the website that let you view the different styles for the different models of these push bar( "A" frame) mountin' brackets or like you said,don't mater which one I get, I'll wait another little while,as I'll be busy with the band this weekend,I got the cast off,they suggested I get another one put on,and told them flat out NO,it's only been 4 weeks since I broke it,but I seen the exray and it's 3/4 on the mend,I told them I'll be extra carefull,and they need me back in two more months,What a big relief to get that ugly cast removed,anyhow I'm rambin' on once again because I feel normal again even though I have a small limp from the cast bein' too tight, you have a good day Iplayfarmer>>>> and take care>>>Ampa

ampa · Oct 1, 2010

Okay guys......I took time to take 5 new pix's of this snowblade project of mine,foot still swelled up and hurtin' quite a bit since I got the cast removed yesterday,they told me another two months for it to completly mend,Hmmmmm,can't put my shoe on neither,so I guess I can't do too much till things simmer down,anyhow I have pix's of the acutator,I mounted it on the push bar usin' a tab that was already there and had a hole already drilled in from the factory for the manual hand lift I gather, by usin, an old 1/2" shoulder bolt(it's a bit too long, so I'll be gettin' a new bolt)when I'm able to get around normaly again)anyhow I reserved the smooth part the for the bottom of the acutator,then put a nut and washer through the bracket then another washer and lock washer and nut and tightened it,solid as a rock,okay now I have a pic of the old BM brackets that the past owner was nice to leave on,and I didn't need them so I removed them,and now I can use these(in the reversed direction you see them,startin' with first one on right and the second one on the left side,then I can hopefully weld the mountin' bracket to these, when I get one, then I can mount the whole issue underneath, then I should be able to remove it easy when needed,so it don't seem like such a big job now that I've got it all layed out in front of me,still no luck in findin' a pic of the different mounting brackets for the 7 listed ATV's (bummer)anyhow the other pic's are there as well,one thing that is confusing is the my new acutator has two plugs comin' from it the red/yellow the other has two black,the young guy told me this was a heater protection thing,or more like a safety if the motor heated up,or maybe like a fuse,I'm installin' a 20 amp fuse in the dash along with the small momentary toggle switch,any this be no concern till I'm ready to hook up the 12 volt electrical which would be nice to have some info before I blow things up,I gather the two black be ground the other two change the phase of the connection for the up and down direction,I don't know why they sell these things with no directions on what's what,is it possible they don't even know :

anyhow you guys like pic's,they are not the best not the cameras fault my human error,I don't know how to work the thing,if your wonderin' what that gey primer tank with the wheels is,that be my new 20 gal. air tank for my compressor,lots of little things to do yet, also just rememberd I have to reverse the rear rims back the way they were with the old liquid filled tires.>>>>>>take care>>>>Ampa

ampa · Oct 4, 2010

I was able to get into installin' my snowblade,the mounting kits for the different model ATV's recommended to be used to mount this blade cost including tax around a $100.00,I went with plans with usin' the old belly mower brackets,after cuttin' one to fit with my metal chop saw and breakin' and wearin' down a few metal cuttin' discs plus blowin' 1/2 dozen fuses,I got one cut,these brackets are almost a 1/2" mild steel mind you and tough to cut through,anyhow thats not my only probem,seem the mountin' holes don't line up proper,so I'll have to file out the holes,I drilled one out larger on my drill press,which took some doin' as well,as for attachin' it as I do have threaded bolt holes in the frame plus go into the side of the cast iron engine block,but I only have one bolt that is long enough to catch a few threads without a lock washer, bein' metric as well, I'll have to look to buy 4 bolts around 2- 1/2" in lenght to secure the bracket proper complete with lock washer e.t.c.,I doubt if Canadian Tire will carry the diameter or lenght I need,but I'll take a look,quite possible Napa be my best bet for these,I had to inlarge the predrilled holes on the push bar frame to accept new 5/8 shoulder bolts,this left me with very little (meat) metal,but bein' hard to drlll, should be okay for the time bein' if not I'll have to take it off and get it beefed up when the time comes, seems something that looks easy and straight forward doesn't always turn out that way,but so far,it's lookin' like I'll have a workin' snowblade soon after a Tyenol # 3's for my headace not coutin' broken metal cuttin' discs and blown fuses,I even blew a 20 amp slow blow,a 25 and a 30 amp fuse,my Power Fist chop saw is a 15 amp beast from Princess Auto,if I take it slow and easy I should be okay cuttin' the other bracket,maybe I'll take the chop saw back trade it in for a brand name unit and pay the difference in cost,my work area is a real mess with metal shavings e.t.c.,I can't clean this up till I'm able to move the tractor,and right now that seems impossible with the snowblade half installed on one side,real bummer,besides my brokin' mendin' foot is still botherin' me a bit, but I'll stick with this nerve rackin' job till the end,I'm much too involved now to quit,maybe a few suggestions from some of you nice guys out there,on the best way or a hint to get these holes to line up usin' a powered type method that I can't think of right at this moment, on these darn belly mower brackets,my only thought is to use a rat tail file,but this is the hard way of doin' it and may take me till Xmas to get it done,the drill press is no option as well,because it jams the bit, anyhow as always thanks for now,sorry guy's, no time for pix's at this dull moment>>>take care>>>>>

and bare it as the sayin' goes>>>>Ampa

ampa · Oct 5, 2010

A lot of hard manual labor,intalled pretty much to the your diagram Iplayfarmer,hardest thing was gettin' the original holes in the ISEKI brackets lined up,first I did was go out and buy a brand new Hitachi chop saw from Princess Auto,they took back the old Power Fist cause I told them it was constantly blowin' fuses,this townhouse has the old style screw in type,went throuh about $25.00 worth, they gave me back all most $90.00 for it,the Hitachi cost $189.00 plus tax, so I paid the diference well worth the price, I also bought a dry metal cuttin' blade for it on sale for $64.99, but promply returned it as it wasn't suitable for this new chop saw,the metal blade stated it was only rated @ max 1300 rpm and the Hitachi runs @ 3800 or more rpm,saftey wise it was an accident lookin' for a place to happen,they took it back and gave me a full refund,the box said max 1700 rpm,so they crossin' off the 1700 max with a magic marker, a difference of 400 rpm than what the blade read,anyhow the plough looks good nice and centered,once bolted up it all came together like a puzzle,just need to make the rad frame for the acutator,this where I get a chance to use my new 120 volt Lincoln wire feed welder,I chained up the blade,so now I can move the tractor outside and clean up my my mess,probley won't mess with it again till Wedesday,need a break from it,then start new into again,thanks once again Iplayfarmer,that set up is the only way to install these ATV snow blades, I'll snap some pix's of whats been done so far, when I get things cleaned up>>>>>take care>>>>Ampa :thumbsup:

Iplayfarmer · Oct 8, 2010

Thanks for posting your progress. I'm eager to see pics. I'll also be looking for some additional updates when the snow flies.

ampa · Oct 8, 2010

There's been a change in my plans to use the 12 volt acutator,since I sold my finishmower and graderblade,I decieded to remove most of the 3 pt hitch,due to the small garage at this townhouse we rent,shortning my tractors length was a much better way to go,besides the arms on the 3 pt. hitch were just dangling back and forth,I left the arms for the hydraulics intact,for the simple reason if I need to add a rear weight box,I can still use the rear hydraulics to pick it up and secure it to the bottom of the axle casing,but I doubt if I have to do this,my 4 wheel drive has done an excellent job the past three winters since I've owned it,but maybe the rear graderblade was adding weight,I'll find this out this coming winter,I've seen small GT's with 2 wheel drive barrel through snow with no problems,so we'll see what happens,anyhow with the acutator I would have not been using my tractors hydraulics,and to install the acutator would have had me remove the small dash,I've got it filled up with so many wires already,not really much room to even add another toggle switch,the steering wheel has sorta' welded it's self to the steering shaft,can't find my steerin' puller tool since we moved,so I took the acutator back the store and bought a small MYERS snowplough ram/cylinder, and a double lever/handle valve,so now I'll be able to control the up and down plus the right and left angle,yes Iplayfarmer, got new batteries in my 10 meg pixel camera to take all the pics of my on going progress, here's 2 pics one of my on board hydraulics that I need to tap into (only the small "P" line the large line (return) remains intact(don't need to cut into this one) plus the fender mounted new 2 lever valve for the two rams/cylinders,the outside lever will be for the up and down action the inside lever for the angle for now until I can save more money it will be plugged and I'll be removin' the lever/handle,there's a very nice veiw of my much crowded,dangerous and messy work area,I seemed to have misplaced the pic of the new MYERS snowplough ram, I know it's on my computers HD somewhere,I've just added a pic of someones snowplough setup on this great lookin' John Deere tractor I noticed the ram is double acting,while the ram/cylinder I'll be usin' is single acting, this OP setup I'll be copying, all except the nice grill gaurd,I very much like the chain idea,I'll be able to adjust the height very easy as I don't have much room to play with,as long as the blade is at least 4" off the ground I should be okay to go,I normaly plough the top half of the snow when it's really heavy and deep and then take a second and last sweep at it, so much easier on the blade and tractor,please! don't ask me how I know this>>>>> thanks for all your help and interest Iplayfarmer >>>>take care Ampa