Need advice on grain drill for haying

[blueriver]

Sorry, the question was directed towards you and I wrote 8300, not 8500 (just to avoid confusion).

If it is 12' wide then it would be a 21 hole drill if it is a 7" spacing. The 8300 came in 6,7, 8 and 10" spacings.

My back is doing fairly well. I have some bug that is making all my joints sore and very stiff so I am not feeling the best today. I hope it goes away soon as I am getting tired of my head hurting I got this problem where I am addicted to TBN and staring at the screen makes my head hurt even more but I can't look away

Have fun and good luck with the wheat. I bought a JD 3300 combine with a 2 row corn head and 10' table for $1k in PA. It was in great shape (well the table needed work but it was useable). I was looking for a walker so that I could bale the straw as I dispise baling behind rotaries. Depending on the crop condition you will either be baling short, ground up straw or straw dust (chickens like the straw dust as it kicks around easy ). Baling behind my walker is so much nicer, I don't get as clean a sample as a rotary but for my uses that is ok.

Glad to hear you are doing fairly well, I assume the fairly is because of the bug, that seams to be nation wide, its here in Oklahoma as well.

Anyway, how about those wheat prices! I contemplate that over and over, sowed 50 acres of wheat and rye to graze this spring, am now wondering if I get rain and good growing conditions and if it looks real good if I should consider combining it high for the wheat and graze the rest ... Any thoughts?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I can't help you with your planting/harvesting much as I have never planted wheat. My ground holds water and will kill a lot of the winter wheat so with our short growing season and my ground it is easiest to plant oats as soon as the ground lets me in the spring.

I had a small field I was going to turn into a good hay field and killed the grass this fall and was going to plow it under but then I got hurt so the field just sits there. I am thinking of just no tilling in an orchard grass/timothy mix this spring as I don't feel like plowing and discing early this spring. I will have my dad plow the corn ground and prep that for me.

I am hoping by next fall I am back to normal and back to plowing and discing but I don't want to push things.

 

[blueriver]

Thats right go easy ... time takes care of things, I may have to start a new thread about the wheat idea!

 

[flusher]

The Brillion seeders are amazing, I still regret missing out on the one locally as it was 12' wide and in like new condition for cheap. I love using our 5' unit behind the Ford 640 or the 1920 as they are good for small food plots or small hay fields.

I didn't mean the county would let you use their drills for free if they have one there (but I would rent the Brillion from you neighbor). Our county charges by the acre but I can't recall the price.

As for the soil test, I get my test done for $12 - $15 per sample depending where it goes. Cornell and Penn State both do soil test (don't know how much PS charges). I can take my sample to any of my fertilizer dealers or the Cornell extension at my County ag agency and they send it to the labs they use. The fertilizer dealers send the sample to the lab at their plant they are associated with.

I am sorry you got soaked so bad for your sample hopefully you can find a cheaper place next time.

I used a commercial test lab in Chico, the nearest one. This lab has cheaper tests. However, since this is the first test on this field in decades (if ever), I opted for the "comprehensive" test, hence the relatively high price.

 

[flusher]

I want in!! Heres my opinion, I used the local tradio (thats short for trade -radio), called in and told them I wanted a grain drill. I got a John Deere, 12' with grass seed attatchment and rear packing wheels for $200. (Have to look at the model#) Drove 16 miles, hooked it behind the dodge and pulled it home.

Each fall I put down wheat and rye mix, for spring grazing, I do not make a seed bed, (I quess this would be no-till?) after a fresh rain and the ground is fairly soft, I use this and seed it down, the only time I didn't get a good stand was lack of moisture!

Inside the lids are the setting requirements for everything right down to alfalfa, I also just used it to sow down some bahia grass on a place I rent, the landlord asked for it.

when I am looking, for implements, I like to seek the equipment that is older and just hanging out with no purpose ... Great deals!!

Ah, the JD 8200. The drill of my dreams. If I could find one around here for under $1K I'd be in hog heaven. The quest continues.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Ah, the JD 8200. The drill of my dreams. If I could find one around here for under $1K I'd be in hog heaven. The quest continues.

Any particular reason the 8200 is the drill of your dreams? There really isn't much difference between the 8200 and 8300 JD's as well as the International 5100. Well, most of the JD and International drills are about the same. The 510 International is a little older and you can usually find those fairly cheap compared to the 5100. I looked at a 510 before I bought my 5100 but the one I looked at was too narrow for my use. Keep your eyes open and you will find one.

I had forgot about the 510 but it still has parts support and is a good drill and has a vintage look, not turn of the century like some of the old McCormicks and such.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I used a commercial test lab in Chico, the nearest one. This lab has cheaper tests. However, since this is the first test on this field in decades (if ever), I opted for the "comprehensive" test, hence the relatively high price.

What does their comprehensive test cover?

 

[flusher]

Any particular reason the 8200 is the drill of your dreams? There really isn't much difference between the 8200 and 8300 JD's as well as the International 5100. Well, most of the JD and International drills are about the same. The 510 International is a little older and you can usually find those fairly cheap compared to the 5100. I looked at a 510 before I bought my 5100 but the one I looked at was too narrow for my use. Keep your eyes open and you will find one.

I had forgot about the 510 but it still has parts support and is a good drill and has a vintage look, not turn of the century like some of the old McCormicks and such.

I was being somewhat facetious. Any of those drills you mention would be thrilling to me.

 

[flusher]

What does their comprehensive test cover?

Primary Nutrients(NO3-N, Phosphorus, Potassium) Secondary-Exchangeable & Soluble (Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium & SAR) Toxic Elements (Boron, Chloride, Sulfate) Micronutrients (Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu) CEC & % Base Saturation (Ca, Mg, K, Na, Hydrogen) Others (Moisture, Saturation, pH, Soil Salinity, Limestone, Lime, Requirement)

Note: SAR=sodium absorption rate

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Primary Nutrients(NO3-N, Phosphorus, Potassium) Secondary-Exchangeable & Soluble (Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium & SAR) Toxic Elements (Boron, Chloride, Sulfate) Micronutrients (Zn, Mn, Fe, Cu) CEC & % Base Saturation (Ca, Mg, K, Na, Hydrogen) Others (Moisture, Saturation, pH, Soil Salinity, Limestone, Lime, Requirement)

Note: SAR=sodium absorption rate

Umm, my test include that information also. It is the only test they do

I would still ask around next time and see if you can get this done cheaper. Otherwise send your sample to Cornell

 

[flusher]

Umm, my test include that information also. It is the only test they do

I would still ask around next time and see if you can get this done cheaper. Otherwise send your sample to Cornell

Thanks for the info. I'll check around. Fortunately the next testing is a year away so I have time to find another lab.

 

[rdbigfarmboy]

Soil Testing
Im curious about the soil test results. I have never paid attention beyond how much NPK or lime I need.

What would you do with all the other information?

I can see it useful in an intensive vegetable crop like strawberries, lettuce, tomatos and the like.

 

[flusher]

Soil Testing
Im curious about the soil test results. I have never paid attention beyond how much NPK or lime I need.

What would you do with all the other information?

I can see it useful in an intensive vegetable crop like strawberries, lettuce, tomatos and the like.

Mostly put it in the file. As I said earlier, I'll go with the less comprehensive tests next time.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Soil Testing
Im curious about the soil test results. I have never paid attention beyond how much NPK or lime I need.

What would you do with all the other information?

I can see it useful in an intensive vegetable crop like strawberries, lettuce, tomatos and the like.

You are right, the rest of this information is important but not so much so to some crops. It helps my fertilizer dealers mix a proper blend for me to spread and it also tells them if I need to worry about anything in particular. I don't understand some of it but my dealers do and they advise me properly.

 

[Biological Woodsman]

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the feed gates when drilling spring oats with the JD 8200 grain drill? I was told to just close them which I will try and experiment on the driveway before heading for the field. Thanks for any advice.

 

[AKfish]

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the feed gates when drilling spring oats with the JD 8200 grain drill? I was told to just close them which I will try and experiment on the driveway before heading for the field. Thanks for any advice.

You should consider posting your question as a single thread with a highlight of the drill model in the title. That way, folks with experience using that model will take note and offer suggestions.

AKfish

 

[Tx Jim]

When sowing clean oats with a JD grain drill feed gates should be in #1 position which is at the very top. This info is IIRC on the feed chart in seed box cover.