John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,049
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
Skip chains make sense on super long bars.
Could you explain why that is, please?
When cutting very large wood, there ends up being a LOT of chips along the length of that saw kerf. It can start to clog things up, interfering with the normal motion and cutting action of the chain. Full skip has half as many teeth (left cutter - space - right cutter - space - left cutter, etc), so less chips in the kerf and a better "cleaning action" to pull the chips out without clogging things up. It also takes less power to drive a full skip chain, since fewer cutters are engaged with the wood at any one time - so if you are maxing out the power of your saw, a skip chain might let you use a little longer bar than it would otherwise be able to handle.
There is also a "semi-skip" chain: (left cutter - right cutter - space - left cutter - right cutter - space) that is an effort to split the difference.
If you are not cutting large diameter logs where chips clogging up the cut are an issue a regular chain will cut faster IF your saw has the power to properly drive the chain. Also, skip chains are not recommended for cutting small branches, such as limbing. The large gaps make for rough cutting in small wood, and can make the chain feel rather "grabby".
The safety chain that often comes on smaller box store saws is a skip chain: but they fill the gaps with a "bumper link" to avoid the rough cutting and grabby feel of a regular skip chain.