My NX6010

[MinnesotaEric]

I realized that I forgot to fuse a hot line running straight from the battery all the way back and so I changed some of the routing and wired in a weatherpack fuse, mounting it dead center up high with the other fuses and relays in the engine compartment. I took the photo before zip-tying the wire down so it cannot vibrate, fatigue, and break.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Building the weatherpack connectors that will run to the relays.

 

[Piston]

Hey Eric,
Looks like a really nice setup you have. I'm curious how well the f150 tows that load?


Do you have any issues towing? What's your total weight? Do you have the ecoboost?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Hey Eric,
Looks like a really nice setup you have. I'm curious how well the f150 tows that load?


Do you have any issues towing? What's your total weight? Do you have the ecoboost?

I do have the EB. Good enough power, but I got 11 miles to the gallon lugging the tractor home The in 2012, Ford bumped up the size the brakes and mine is an 2011.

 

[94BULLITT]

Yesterday I also made a short, "Kioti, what are you thinking?" video.

The 12v power port on my Kubota's were not on with the key off. They are now. I maintain my batteries through the 12v power port.

You wiring work looks good.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The 12v power port on my Kubota's were not on with the key off. They are now. I maintain my batteries through the 12v power port.

You wiring work looks good.

Thanks, Roger.

Today I more-or-less finalized where and how to mount my relays. I left my video stuff in a wad so that I can move the monitor if I don't like its position and so I can replace my rearward camera (I ordered a camera without lines but it showed up with lines. The lesson is don't be like me: bench test before installing). I will need to make a new hole to get the solenoid power out of the cab. I'll likely drill that hole in the same access plate I have fused power from the battery coming into the cab that runs to the load side of the relays.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

This evening, with nothing doing, I thought I'd wire in a couple of Led flood lights by dropping the headliner and running wire. No can do: one cannot just drop the headliner, one must remove the cab's cap in order to get at the overhead light's wiring or replace a bulb in the overhead lights since the bulb's electrical connector is under the cap. I'm ordering more LED lights to replace everything at once.

 

[Threepoint]

Looks like you're making great progress, Eric. Keep the pics and narrative coming. They let me see what I'd be getting into if I had the courage to disassemble the cab of my new NX before I turned 25 hrs.

I'll be interested in what you finally decide on back-up monitor location. My monitor and camera won't arrive til next week (thanks again to 94Bullitt for the tip and links), so haven't thought much yet about where and how to mount. The NX series has a fairly sturdy polymer dashboard, with what looks like a pretty good mounting surface over the main instrument cluster. Might try the monitor there. Don't know if that would dampen or exacerbate vibration. Seems like it could go either way.

Interesting about not being able to drop the headliner. For the camera and monitor cabling, I was thinking I could run it under the trim down the door post, then under the heavy rubber floor mat. The mat has deep channels molded into the underside that look like they'd make good races for cabling and still protect it.

I'm curious about the back-up lines in the camera. If the camera comes with directions, perhaps it will say how they are to be used. The idea doesn't bother me, in fact they seem like they'd add known reference points that will be useful when backing up. I guess they could be a distraction when using the camera only for monitoring 3pt implements when driving forward.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Looks like you're making great progress, Eric. Keep the pics and narrative coming. They let me see what I'd be getting into if I had the courage to disassemble the cab of my new NX before I turned 25 hrs.

I'll be interested in what you finally decide on back-up monitor location. My monitor and camera won't arrive til next week (thanks again to 94Bullitt for the tip and links), so haven't thought much yet about where and how to mount. The NX series has a fairly sturdy polymer dashboard, with what looks like a pretty good mounting surface over the main instrument cluster. Might try the monitor there. Don't know if that would dampen or exacerbate vibration. Seems like it could go either way.

Interesting about not being able to drop the headliner. For the camera and monitor cabling, I was thinking I could run it under the trim down the door post, then under the heavy rubber floor mat. The mat has deep channels molded into the underside that look like they'd make good races for cabling and still protect it.

I'm curious about the back-up lines in the camera. If the camera comes with directions, perhaps it will say how they are to be used. The idea doesn't bother me, in fact they seem like they'd add known reference points that will be useful when backing up. I guess they could be a distraction when using the camera only for monitoring 3pt implements when driving forward.

I think the tractor has 7.5 hours on it. Months ago, when I made the original demo movie, it had 5.2 hours. At this point I'm getting pushback from fellow family members about leaving town and going to the lake rather than sitting around waiting for parts to come in.

I think the best place for a rearward-facing external camera is right under the rearward cap, mounted in the black plastic. The wires sneak in through the top of the rear window, up under the headliner, and then down (in my case) the right rear C pillar in the back. Get power by using an add-a-fuse in the CD/Radio 10 amp socket in the fuse box on the lefthand side and ground anywhere you wish. If you have the interior out, it is easy to run the wires up under the floor to the dash or mount as I have on the sidebar. I don't know if I'll wind of keeping the monitor on the side since I don't have my seat in and have never tried looking at it from an operating perspective.

The little 600 TV line camera I got is more fiddly in the sense that it can only be mounted inside and must look through a window.

Tonight I am adding more wiring for the second camera as well as some of the wires for a gag Bigfoot light switch for flipping on a pair of cheap, china 18W LED side lights. I've ordered in 4 36W Chinese LED lights to replace the four stock lights. The side lights I plan to mount off of a pair of heavy bracket on the rear corners. I need to chase off to the store to get some L stock to cut up and make fit to hold the lights. Anyway, as soon as all the lights come in and it doesn't look like rain, I'm pulling the cab's cap to get the lights mounted and wired in.

Unless my hydraulic bits show up. Still waiting. Was told the Postmaster sent the box back because there was a hydraulic oil stain on the side and the company is reshipping. Sigh.

Additionally, I'm still waiting to get this thing back together enough to where I can fire it up and take some electrical measurements so I can make my black box to control the engine acceleration from a joystick button. Had I known that I'd be waiting nearly three weeks in after pulling the hydro-hose, I'd have taken the time with my multi-meter to measure everything first so I could busy myself making something very cool.

Edited to add photos:

When your neighbors say they've seen Bigfoot, and your sister too, it is time to get Bigfoot lights.

Key on: Sasquatch Lights is lighted; switch on Sasquatch Light and Bigfoot are lighted.

Best spot for rear camera on the NX series cab.

 

[Threepoint]

Thanks for the installation tips, Eric. I spoke too soon about my monitor and camera arriving next week. They came this afternoon, just three days after I ordered them. :dance1: I'll test them tomorrow. Turns out the included mounting bracket for the monitor will fit perfectly on the raised, flat area of the dash above the main instrument cluster on the NX. Its base is powder-finished sheet metal, so a slight bend adjustment will conform it perfectly to the curve in the dash. I'll attach it with four small sheet metal screws rather than the included double-sided foam tape, in case I need to remove it, and sandwich some 1/8" neoprene craft foam in between to dampen vibration. I expect I'll need to pull the dash to do a clean install. Hmm, now I'm thinking I should have gone ahead and ordered and NX-series service manual before now.

I agree with your suggestion for the rear-facing camera mount, under the trailing lip of the cab roof. Good location, as it will be somewhat protected from rain, snow and direct sun.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thanks for the installation tips, Eric. I spoke too soon about my monitor and camera arriving next week. They came this afternoon, just three days after I ordered them. :dance1: I'll test them tomorrow. Turns out the included mounting bracket for the monitor will fit perfectly on the raised, flat area of the dash above the main instrument cluster on the NX. Its base is powder-finished sheet metal, so a slight bend adjustment will conform it perfectly to the curve in the dash. I'll attach it with four small sheet metal screws rather than the included double-sided foam tape, in case I need to remove it, and sandwich some 1/8" neoprene craft foam in between to dampen vibration. I expect I'll need to pull the dash to do a clean install. Hmm, now I'm thinking I should have gone ahead and ordered and NX-series service manual before now.

I agree with your suggestion for the rear-facing camera mount, under the trailing lip of the cab roof. Good location, as it will be somewhat protected from rain, snow and direct sun.

The dash comes apart very easy. The 10mm bolts are obvious. As I recall there are two switches on the right. Be careful about removing the wiring loom that you don't break the any ears off of the switches themselves that hold them in place because the plastic is brittle even on a warm day. Also, the ignition switch connector is easy to pull apart using a small, flat-bladed screw driver to release the snap-lock. Four 10mm bolts from the bottom hold the two halves of the steering column covers together and they come out by moving the tilt all the way back (take your time with the forward, top half). Pay attention how the ignition switch wires are routed (or snap a photo). The big cowling that holds the instrument cluster has 10mm fasteners are straight forward and there are a total (as I remember) of two electrical connectors that are easy and once lose, the whole thing lifts straight up.

As I took it apart, seems to me I did get out one 1/4" 10mm swivel-socket to get at a blind off-set fastener in the top, front right side of the steering column along with a with a 3" or 6" extension, but I may have only needed it because of my order of removing things. My socket is a Snap-On, but Craftsman and others make these types of sockets.

Here is a photo of what I'm talking about being sold on Ebay.

 

[Happy Gilmore]

Awesome work Eric, very impressive!

 

[ksbrdmkr]

I thought the throttle, governor and injector are mechanical so to add an electrical control you would have to add some kind of electric cruise control. Does the NX series have electric speed control option standard?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I thought the throttle, governor and injector are mechanical so to add an electrical control you would have to add some kind of electric cruise control. Does the NX series have electric speed control option standard?

I wish I could add a spring-dampened stepper motor to the throttle linkage because that would be easy, but the NX series is a fly-by wire system. I've puzzled out how to accelerate the engine without setting any error codes and without frying the ECU or any components.

 

[Threepoint]

[snip]
I think the best place for a rearward-facing external camera is right under the rearward cap, mounted in the black plastic. The wires sneak in through the top of the rear window, up under the headliner, and then down (in my case) the right rear C pillar in the back. Get power by using an add-a-fuse in the CD/Radio 10 amp socket in the fuse box on the lefthand side and ground anywhere you wish.

Eric, some more questions, if you don't mind, since you're way ahead in customizing the NX.

1. When you say get power for the camera with an add-a-fuse, is this what you mean? Amazon.com: Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse: Automotive If so, won't that mean the black snap-on fuse tray cover will have to stay off? Any reason not to just add a fuse in an unused slot and connect the power lead at the back of the fuse tray? What amperage fuse did you use? I'm thinking 1 or 2 amps. The monitor comes with an inline 2 amp fuse.

2. Where did you grab power for the monitor? I was thinking I'd just draw off the same source as the camera. Did you bother connecting the blue wire to power, in addition to the red? The instructions are worthless, but from the reviews the blue is to be connected to the vehicle's backup light circuit if you want the video to automatically switch to the rear camera. Doesn't look to me like it's necessary for this application.

3. Since the CD/Radio fuse power is always on (haven't checked it, but I'm pretty sure it is), would you be concerned about the camera and the monitor always drawing power? Or will you install a switch? I read in one of the Amazon reviews that the monitor that draws enough amps to eventually run down the battery if the vehicle sits unused for awhile, even when the monitor's switched off. Not sure why that would be.

4. The patch cable that comes with the camera is 6 meters long. Great for wiring a truck, but 5 meters too long for the NX! Did you use a shorter cable? I don't know if coiling the longer cable will interfere with the signal.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, some more questions, if you don't mind, since you're way ahead in customizing the NX.

1. When you say get power for the camera with an add-a-fuse, is this what you mean? Amazon.com: Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse: Automotive If so, won't that mean the black snap-on fuse tray cover will have to stay off? Any reason not to just add a fuse in an unused slot and connect the power lead at the back of the fuse tray? What amperage fuse did you use? I'm thinking 1 or 2 amps. The monitor comes with an inline 2 amp fuse.

2. Where did you grab power for the monitor? I was thinking I'd just draw off the same source as the camera. Did you bother connecting the blue wire to power, in addition to the red? The instructions are worthless, but from the reviews the blue is to be connected to the vehicle's backup light circuit if you want the video to automatically switch to the rear camera. Doesn't look to me like it's necessary for this application.

3. Since the CD/Radio fuse power is always on (haven't checked it, but I'm pretty sure it is), would you be concerned about the camera and the monitor always drawing power? Or will you install a switch? I read in one of the Amazon reviews that the monitor that draws enough amps to eventually run down the battery if the vehicle sits unused for awhile, even when the monitor's switched off. Not sure why that would be.

4. The patch cable that comes with the camera is 6 meters long. Great for wiring a truck, but 5 meters too long for the NX! Did you use a shorter cable? I don't know if coiling the longer cable will interfere with the signal.

Get a shorter patch cable. In my case, I went to Walmart and purchased an RCA end audio cable and split it so I'd have two 3' cables for two cameras. The colors are not yellow but saving money makes us clever enough to get past that unless we're very AR. Speaking of, AR: non-gold plated RCAs can over time fail to deliver a signal and may need to be twisted against each other in order to make good contact, so if you can get the gold plated version, spend the extra few bucks (don't buy monster cables or any of that nonsense). I couldn't find gold-plated RCA ends and so if I ever have a camera go out, the first thing I'll check is spinning the RCA connections (audiophiles know all about what I'm talking about).

Use a low profile mini-fuse, add-a-circuit. This one because the NX series uses low profile mini-fuses on the lefthand bulkhead fuse box where I'm suggesting you get power.

Use the 10 amp Radio/CD fuse spot to power any and all cameras as well as the monitor. It is switch on power, not always on.

The blue wire is only for switching on in reverse. I did not hook it up to power because the user can toggle what camera they want to see. In other words, I did nothing with the blue wire other than to tape off the end.

In the photo below, I have an add a circuit in an always on fuse socket that goes to a 12v power point I added in the lefthand bulkhead fender cover. I'm suggesting you grab switched power from the 10 amp fuse all the way at the end on the righthand side in the same column as my add-a-circuit (as we're looking at the photo facing the rearward of the tractor) which is the radio fuse and is key-on switched power and off with the key off. In the tractor facing forward, the radio fuse is the outermost, rearward fuse on the left side (the red 10 amp fuse in the left rear corner).

I've done very little over the weekend because I'm waiting for LED lights, six rubber, cab-cap-cover washers, a cute, little, 12v-to-6v, inline power inverter for the 600 TV line camera, and a hydraulic plate my local guy said he'd order but then did not.

Meanwhile, I've noticed that one of my dogs has set up a watch at the end of my driveway so as to love anybody who walks by. Apparently, I've been neglecting him. LOL

 

[Threepoint]

Perfect! Thanks for your time. BTW, if you decide to move your monitor off the door handle, the flat portion of the dash/cowling over the front windshield wiper motor works great as a mounting location on the NX. Bend adjustments of the four tabs of the included monitor base conform it perfectly. If you mount the base 1" back from the leading edge of the cowling, there's plenty of room to tilt the monitor back for best viewing. I anchored with four small black screws, and sandwiched the included neoprene pad for damping. I left the protective paper over the adhesive on the bottom side of the pad to avoid adhering to the dash. If it ever looks like the paper is a problem, I'll cut another pad out of 1/8" non-adhesive craft foam from WalMart or Michaels.

For anyone else interested in doing this on the NX series, the monitor cable snakes perfectly over the front windshield wiper shaft casting, down the left side of the firewall. Then along the leading and left edges of the floor mat, using the molded race on the bottom of the mat's left edge, then up under the left interior fender cover to the fuse tray. Needed to extend the red wire enough to reach the fuse tray.

Turns out I did not need to remove the dash/cowling and left interior fender cover completely for the install. Removing the 10mm hex-head machine screws allowed me to pull them away enough to gain access. I did need my 1/4" drive flex-head ratchet to reach the two machine screws between the cowling and the cover for the tilt-away steering wheel.

That's a cute dog in your pic. Looks like you posted at around 5 a.m. :shocked: Don't know what you run on for energy, but I think your family and dogs have been trying to tell you something about too much time on the new tractor!

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Perfect! Thanks for your time. BTW, if you decide to move your monitor off the door handle, the flat portion of the dash/cowling over the front windshield wiper motor works great as a mounting location on the NX. Bend adjustments of the four tabs of the included monitor base conform it perfectly. If you mount the base 1" back from the leading edge of the cowling, there's plenty of room to tilt the monitor back for best viewing. I anchored with four small black screws, and sandwiched the included neoprene pad for damping. I left the protective paper over the adhesive on the bottom side of the pad to avoid adhering to the dash. If it ever looks like the paper is a problem, I'll cut another pad out of 1/8" non-adhesive craft foam from WalMart or Michaels.

For anyone else interested in doing this on the NX series, the monitor cable snakes perfectly over the front windshield wiper shaft casting, down the left side of the firewall. Then along the leading and left edges of the floor mat, using the molded race on the bottom of the mat's left edge, then up under the left interior fender cover to the fuse tray. Needed to extend the red wire enough to reach the fuse tray.

Turns out I did not need to remove the dash/cowling and left interior fender cover completely for the install. Removing the 10mm hex-head machine screws allowed me to pull them away enough to gain access. I did need my 1/4" drive flex-head ratchet to reach the two machine screws between the cowling and the cover for the tilt-away steering wheel.

That's a cute dog in your pic. Looks like you posted at around 5 a.m. :shocked: Don't know what you run on for energy, but I think your family and dogs have been trying to tell you something about too much time on the new tractor!

If you follow either of the two wiring harnesses coming from the dash to the floor, you'll find a cover held down by six 10mm bolts that allow you to hide your wiring under a protective cover that spits out under the fender bulkheads. You do need to have a fender bulkhead out in order to take advantage of the floor covers.

Energy wise, I'm only 45 years old, no wife, no kids. I do have 2 dogs (always two) and an 88-year-old mother who is beginning to wonder if we're ever going to the lake this summer (I think she misses the bar scene at our local small-town muni where she is beloved).

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Since it is National Night Out tonight, not much doing on the NX project. I added the easy part of a little wee, brake light. The hard part of the brake light is installing the brake switch, relay and fuse. I also added a round-style 7 pin trailer wiring kit. All of my trailers use blade RV-style connectors and so I'll either need to get an adaptor, or find and wire in a blade-style plug.

 

[Threepoint]

Since it is National Night Out tonight, not much doing on the NX project. I added the easy part of a little wee, brake light. The hard part of the brake light is installing the brake switch, relay and fuse. I also added a round-style 7 pin trailer wiring kit. All of my trailers use blade RV-style connectors and so I'll either need to get an adaptor, or find and wire in a blade-style plug.

Slow night for you. Very nice. If you want to swap your round-pin connector with an RV-style, here's a good one:
Hopkins™ Endurance™ Multi-Tow® Connector - Tractor Supply Co.

I've been curious as to the purpose of the various extra threaded bolt holes in that plate that you have your hand on. I've assumed the plate is primarily to shield the windshield washer fluid reservoir. The dealer didn't know; perhaps they are for some accessories required in Europe. I see you've made good use of it to mount the brake light and trailer connector. :thumbsup:

Above it and to the left is the Slow Vehicle sign's mounting bracket. There is an unused molded connector adjacent to it, stubbed out on a few inches of cable. Any idea what that's for? Maybe an amber warning beacon? I haven't checked it for power.