My new Jinma

[Mrs3RRL]

Its really cool that you have your own tractor. We share the one here, and it took 4 years to get her to use it. ible! I am a bit envious.
Keep the stories coming!She uses it to haul manure from the cows barn and since I'm away a bit, during the week, she has even used the snoeblower to clear the driveway.

I have to say that I'm much more comfortable on HoneyBee than on Huge Kama. HoneyBee is just exactly the right size for me. I can reach all the pedals and everything. Rob had tried to get me to drive Huge Kama, and I did, a couple of times, but he was just to gigantic. I had to stretch all the way just to reach the pedals, much less push them in !

 

[3RRL]

Ok - so a couple of you want to know about Honeybee's rescue mission (sorry, Rob, can't resist)

SNIP .... SNIP

There was also a photo of Honeybee afterwards, wtih gravel still in the bucket... but I don't know where it is.

But, that's the story of Honeybee's rescue mission.

Is this the photo you're looking for?
Big deal.



Here's the trailer coming out the next week we went up.

 

[Flyhiflylo]

That 284 is great looking!

 

[3RRL]

The Jinma 284 came with one set of rear remotes. At first I thought it would have two sets, but one set is better than none.
Here's a couple pictures of the rear remotes and the valve that runs them. It is handy on the right side of the seat ... better location than on my Kama.
Also notice the lower drag arms? They have a "T" shape to them now for added strength when pushing a boxblade in reverse. Must have been something they stole from when I did that to my Kama a couple years ago. The stabilizers are adjustable solid ones too, not chains. Those wheel weights look good on the inside of the rear wheels too. Very nice rear end Mrs 3RRL!!



The fel valve seems OK to me.
I'm no expert and haven't tried to many other valves other than mine and Larry's.
It's about like that, I would say.

Engine and filters are definitely better than my Kama. Spin-on hydraulic, oil and fuel filters on this thing. dual hydraulic pumps too, one for the tractor and one for the power steering.
Everything looks pretty spiffy.

 

[OKnewguy]

Jinma, sure has cleaned things up. This makes my 04, 224 look old. I really like the rear remotes and the spin on hydro filter. Even the cool Jinma labels are great. Have fun with it.
Dave
BTW, love the color!

 

[tommu56]

Loretta

from your post
"~Rob wasn't too keen on taking ANY suggestions from me~"

After being maried for over 32 years she say's the same thing I guess we (men) will never change!

tom

 

[3RRL]

Loretta and I started to put her Hydraulic Dump trailer together at home.
We figured we would never take it apart again, so instead of bolting the axle on (the holes didn't line up very good) we decided to weld it on and save the hardware. We also welded on the front brackets which hold the front wheel tube.



Later we trailered the dump trailer and other stuff up to camp. The rear tailgate can open from the top or bottom, depending what you want. It has a single acting hydraulic cylinder on it that can be worked by plugging into the rear remotes.
Here it is attached to Loretta's Jinma at the property.

 

[3RRL]

Scott told me later he was able to use the upper rear remote on his, lifting up to raise his dump trailer, and then move the hose to the lower remote and pull the lever up again to lower it. Well, I didn't try it that way, but instead added a quick disconnect hose that ran right into the sump. After raising the dump trailer, I unplugged the rear remote and plugged the hose into the return to sump and that worked for me.
I'll have to get a proper single acting valve plumbed into Loretta's tractor, but in the meantime, here's the temporary return to sump line.

 

[3RRL]

We had some work to do on the camp road and wanted to try out the new dump trailer. We drove to the homesite to get some large 2" to 3" gravel left over from our septic field to make a French drain in the camp road. I had to dig a deep trench with the back hoe, then fill it with the gravel.



Here you can see us coming back with another load. The dump trailer took about two heaping scoops from big Kama and the tires started to flatten a little. It could have held more in size, but not much more in weight. You can compare the size and buckets on the two tractors.



And here is a video of Loretta dumping one of the loads.
You can see how low the tires were in this video too.
It was pretty fun working together like that.

 

[TBDonnelly]

Here you can see us coming back with another load.

The L&R Gravel Train I can almost hear the train whistle!

Don

 

[corey]

Very nice tractor !!
Yellow metal fenders look sturdy.
Remotes are a definite plus.

Wonder if the the remote set up that came with your tractor could be purchased and installed on a 284LE as an aftermarket ??

corey

 

[billbill1]

Loretta, you look like an expert already!! I like your trailer, can you open the bottom and spread gravel with it? Have Rob add a chain to both sides so you can adjust the flow and you can spread as thin or as thick as you want.

 

[SPIKER]

someone posted about the T on the lower drag links for the 3pt. I have a 284 jinma that is an 02 model which has same type/style of drag links, they are sturdy for sure as I bent the heck out of my box blade going backwards up hill out of the creek when the box blade corner hit rotten (not so rotten) stump... pushed the blade back against the tire almost! no tractor damage that time

also let her know to NOT scoop dirt/gravel using the 4 wheel drive as you can sheer off the front tire drive axle (ya don't ask how I KNOW ) what happens is there is a LOAD of torque applied to the front wheels when pushing into the dirt/gravel and the torque can actually shear off this axle as the excessive force from the FEL pushing down gives a LOT of traction to the front tires...

this stopped me last fall from finishing my pole barn floor as I ran out of time waiting for parts to arrive (ran out of vacation that is) only cost 200 some bucks but was 2 weeks waiting & fixing time as I missed getting every thing I needed the first order (had a bad gasket damaged in shipping which was quickly sent out by tommy @ affordable ) and a bearing that I didn't think I would have to replace which came apart when re-assembling the drive unit.
mark M

 

[Red55]

Loretta-
Keep forgeting to ask if Rob checked your front wheels for clearance with the ZL-20 loader frame. (Rob was nice enough to post the pictures that I e-mailed to him) It only happens when the wheel is at it's max height, on level ground everything looks fine. Also Hardpan had posted about the QD bucket and how the cyclinder(s) will hit the loader frame at max dump position. -Ed

 

[3RRL]

Couple of updates on Loretta's Jinma 284 tractor.
I found out that the rear remotes definitely do NOT have a float.
Also found out the stock fel valve does NOT have a float either.
The dump trailer can only dump with the rear tailgate down. There is no hinge on top for it to swing open that way, like Bill was saying. The literature says it can, but no.

In checking the clearance of the widened front tires while the axle is articulated, It comes close but does not hit any of the filters like Ed was asking about. When fully dumped, the fel cylinders touch the fel arms, but not enough to cause any bending or distortion there like on some others I've seen.

As far as trying what Scott said to do with the single acting dump trailer cylinder. Plug in the top remote and pull "UP" to raise. The remove the hose and plug into the bottom remote and pull "UP". No dice, it won't come down that way. Also tried leaving in one remote and pull up to raise and down to lower. It just goes up but not down. I tried it in both the upper and lower remotes. So I'll be adding a single acting valve for the dump trailer, since I could not find a 1/2 remote like on previous models.

There is a noticeable "strain" on the engine when I curl her bucket too. Like it wants to die (but it doesn't). Anybody know why that is?

Other than those things, it is a sweet running little tractor with plenty of power for anything Loretta will be doing with it. It starts up right away using the glow plugs with no problems at all. Everything works great on it.

Question: Does her hydraulic system have a pressure relief valve in it somewhere? Or should I add one?

Question: Does anybody know it Her 284 has a built in 1/2 remote or not?

Question: Does anybody know if the stock fel valve has a power beyond sleeve capability? I only saw 6 hoses in it.
I'd like to know since I'll be adding valves to the hydraulic system.

Thanks,

 

[Kernopelli]

There is a noticeable "strain" on the engine when I curl her bucket too. Like it wants to die (but it doesn't). Anybody know why that is?

Rob, think there is some kind of restriction on that circuit? Only thing I can think of since it only happens when you curl the bucket. Are the fittings or hoses a smaller I.D on that circuit or maybe there is something in the control valve causing a restriction.

When I put my loader together, I experienced the same symptom , it would pull the engine down when I cycled any of the loaders circuits. I had at first assumed the joystick valve had a relief valve but it didn't. I suspected the pump was being allowed to create excessive pressure in the system and it was putting a strain on the motor and I fooled around and dealt with it by just using the FEL at low/moderate RPM's and hoping for the best and the first time I put the FEL under a heavy load at full throttle it blew my hydraulic pump... literally cracked the pump housing in two pieces. After that I put a relief valve from Northern Hydraulics on the pressure line before it came into the joystick and set it at about 1700psi and have had zero problems since. I would check that valve first thing to see if there is a relief and that it is functioning, if not plumb one in before something grenades itself.

 

[doxford jim]

Hi Rob,

I think what you are experiencing with the hydraulics is system relief valve opening, when there is nofurther movement or place for the oil to go to. This in turn would put a load on your engine and may make it momentarily bog down a bit. I believe the hydraulic pumps are geared pumps, therefore positive displacement and the oil has to go somewhere - the relief valve would do the job.

I could be wrong of course, but that is what I believe is happening.

Jim

 

[dfkrug]

It is hard to believe that there is no hydraulic system relief valve on
the tractor. Most CUTs put them on their hydraulic distribution block,
often far away from the pump.

Anyway if the bkt curl function is slow, and it is not trying to move
something heavy, then I think there is most likely a restriction inside the
valve itself, or a QD connector. Have you checked those? The system
relief valve is most likely opening, but that is not the cause itself because
the engine is straining and the system relief valve is in parallel to the
curl work ports. Normal curl action with no load should be fast with no
engine strain.

As for the FEL valve and power beyond, you can install additional OC spool
valves with PB upstream of the FEL valve and avoid the issue.

 

[dfkrug]

As far as trying what Scott said to do with the single acting dump trailer cylinder. Plug in the top remote and pull "UP" to raise. The remove the hose and plug into the bottom remote and pull "UP". No dice, it won't come down that way. Also tried leaving in one remote and pull up to raise and down to lower. It just goes up but not down. I tried it in both the upper and lower remotes. So I'll be adding a single acting valve for the dump trailer, since I could not find a 1/2 remote like on previous models.

I don't quite follow your description, Rob.

I used a DA valve to operate a SA cylinder before. I have since converted
that cylinder (on my concrete mixer) to DA....it was pretty easy. Before
I converted it, I connected the A work port on the valve to the cyl, then
capped of the B port. When I operated the valve, sending oil to the cyl,
it filled up, raising the mixer. To lower the mixer, I moved the valve lever
to other way, which allowed oil in the cyl to return to the tank. The tractor
pump pumped thru the relief valve in the aux valve, which was set about
1500 psi. A bit of engine strain, but for a very short time, while the
cyl contracted. I prefer DA cyls.

 

[bluechip]

It is hard to believe that there is no hydraulic system relief valve on
the tractor. Most CUTs put them on their hydraulic distribution block,
often far away from the pump.

Jinmas have a relief valve at the 3 point lift. The problems come from installing the loader, using quick connects with check valves, between the pump and the lift box. Usually the loader valve will have a PR valve as well.

If the engine loading is excessive, the PR valve may not be adjusted properly or may not be functioning. But a change in engine RPM will be noticed as the pressure in the hydraulics gets to the PR valve setting.